Archive through October 16, 2015

[jclazar]

Hello!

So over the weekend, I finished up my 1450 making it ready for snow clearing! I was out in the garage, and it had just started snowing! Snowed some time of the day yesterday too. Nothing stuck however! My 1450 is now soaking in a bath of wd-40. In a few days I'll go clean it up nice and shiny!

Say, on another note: I have a nice, complete model 86 equipped with an IH 38" mower deck. I'm certain the Kohler k181 was a busted connecting rod. Are their still connecting rods and pistons available?

I know the 181 has a special crank. If the crank checks out with in book tolerances, I want to know I can rebuild the little guy! Its such a complete and unmolested garden tractor and deserves some tlc!

Reason is, that my father might be interested in coming out to get it. I told him just how good an IH Cub Cadet is, and that they are second to none. Any recommendations for a direct bolt in replacement engine and can I use the pto from the 181 on to the replacement?

Also, what can I do to the clutch to make it like new again? The 86 has a slightly sloppy gear selector lever as well. Thank goodness I'm a subscriber to Cadet Connection!

I know this is a tall order, and no rush on it either. I do my research, and it means a lot for me to give this gem to my father.

Thank you

John

 

[gloughery]

Hello, (reposting from restoring section). I need advice removing the auger from a CC42 snow thrower. How do I pull it out with the bearings on? I can't figure out how get the bearings off. Pictures to follow if I can figure out how to resize them on my phone :-/ Thanks!

 

[jmitchell]

It's ALIVE...ALIVE....2 new front tires, all the grounds clean bright and tight. Carb cleaned and rebuilt. Fuel tank cleaned and sediment bowl/shut off valve cleaned. New air filter. New coil, points, condenser, new coil to points wire...Points set at a "loose" .020. Timing set static with a simple test light and verified with an induction timing light on the flywheel markings...Static method with the test light works great.. New Autolite 216 spark plug gapped at .025. Installed a great headlight panel out of my 147 into the 126..Be robbing the hood and seat as well. Exchanged the S/G for a recently rebuilt one. New 285 amp battery..Yesterday was the first day in around 4 years that my 126 has ran...Choke full on, throttle half open, shot of carb cleaner into the breather, it spun maybe 2 revolutions before it fired and then ran..Got it warmed up and adjusted the slow and high speed needles..I am pretty pleased to hear it run and running well again.

Next on my Cub agenda is wiring the headlights, installing some red LED marker lights on the rear, plus a rear work light, Loading the rear tires with new Moose utility inner-tubes and filling those wit windshield washer fluid.and installing 2 link chains..

Finally got a good look at the QA42A snowthrower and it looks like it hasn't hardly been used..Wear-bar on the bottom shows very little scuffing as do the runners. Sprockets and chain have no visible wear, no real lash in the gearbox, drive-shaft U-joints are tight..Auger is straight and bearings seem good..Drive pulley appears as good as the rest. Comes with the PTO to pulley belt. The person who owned it, before the elderly gent who has it now, must have has a concrete or asphalt drive, as he mounted a pair of rubber wheels to the mount frame that holds the bottom of the thrower off the ground about an inch..Also there is no lift rod...I would think a chain would work in lieu of a proper lift rod.. The man who owns it started out asking 275. We discussed it while I was checking it out, with me telling him I was likely around 175 to 200 max, where he then countered me saying he'd take 225..I pointed out these is no lift rod and let the conversation lag..He then said he paid 300 for it and never got around to using it because he's now retired and a snowed in drive is no longer a big deal to him..LOL... So..I'm thinking about it..It's not a bad price. especially considering how rare it is here in my area..But then again, it's missing the lift rod. It's a heavy piece, cumbersome to deal with and probably not too lift arm friendly..

Would a IH rock shaft spring assist be much use in helping lift the thrower? Does anyone know how long the lift rod would need to be with the 126 Cub?

Thanks for all the help and info guys..You've all been very informative to me and a great help.

Regards
John

 

[dschwandt]

John, I'd jump on that QA42A if it is as nice as you say before someone else does.

just make SURE it IS a QA42A!

 

[danderson]

John-The spring assist did help on my QA36A before I put the hydraulic lift on it. They are hard on the arm. A 126 being a narrow frame your rod should be around 32". This was discussed a couple of weeks ago.

 

[jmitchell]

Dschanwandt..

That's what the tag on the hood/drum says..QA42A.. I am going to buy it..In fact I'm going to call him now..Thanks for the shove...LOL..

 

[hydroharry]

Mike P - I'm not someone that can really advise you on mounting the cab, but one thing I noticed about the 982 and later Super Garden tractors, is the rear fenders tend to slant down over the rear tire leaving very little space between the top of the tire and the fender edge. On the 1872 I did have I unbolted the fenders inside the battery box area and installed a small 3/4" wood spacer to raise the fenders just slightly. Worked great and gave me just that little extra clearance. In your case it may allow the rear of the fenders to be in better alignment with the rear of the cab.

John E Mitchell - glad to hear that 126 is now running well. I also agree with David S about jumping on getting the QA42A. I'd counter the offer price one more time and offer a flat $200. Also, David mentions making sure it is a QA42A. I said something about that before but since your 126 is a Narrow Frame tractor either the QA42A or a QA42 will fit and work. Performance is about the same for either one. The length of the lift rod should be the same as your snow blade, and measure right around 31"-32" center to center.

 

[jmitchell]

Hyroharry..The elderly gent who currently owns the QA42A did agree last Saturday evening to allow me a week to think about it...I would like to get in on it at 200 buckS..But honestly, since I learned of it's whereabouts, I felt like if it was in real good condition..I'd probably go as high as 250 bones...But...that WAS before I haD to spend as much as I did on replacement parts just to bring the 126 back to life after sorting out cause of the electrical death..I had figured I'd clean/rebuild the carb, mount a pr of front tires, grab a new battery and it would fire up and run...It all factors in and I have a "Cub Budget" that I operate within, as I have numerous other motorized projects that wittle away at my overall antique M/C, pick-ups and farm tractor budget that is set aside from my household funds....Toys cost...But this is different! It's a Cub and I do plan on using it and maybe another one for snow if and when we get some..200 sounds better that 225...But....ya know. cheap and tight and greed are not far apart..While I do look for deals, being thrifty and being a skinflint are two different things...I don't want to be known as the last! Ha.

Thanks for the input..all you guys are tops in my book.
Regard
John

 

[mgonitzke]

Mike P.-

That cab must be off of a 'cyclops' SGT. That would explain the curved profile on the fenders and why it won't sit right on there, since the fenders on those are totally different. The frames and therefore footrest locations should be the same between the two, so I would bolt the footrests down and see how that looks, and the go from there.

 

[mpatterson]

Harry,
You needed to add the wooden shim because the chains were hitting or the cab was shoving the fenders down more into the tires? Where's Art when you need him??
Art,
IF you did your cab yourself, did you have it in pieces and assembled it on the tractor piece by piece or you just set it on it completely assembled? Did you find it hard to line things up to make it sit square on the tractor so the doors closed right and the front window pivot freely?

Here are a couple more pics of what I have so far:

The two bolts that hold the fenders to the frame are pretty much between the slotted holes and the two round holes, so would need to drill cab out to use same holes into the frame. This is the part I think would be best to put the wooden wedge into so it sits on the wedge instead of fender pan. This way I could tighten the wedge into the fender surface between wheels flat and tight??

None of the 4 bolts in the floor boards from the cab line up, so new ones need to be drilled. You can also sort of see how the cab doesn't sit on the fenders themselves, only in the center over the frame. I didn't get any "fenders" with my cab so I have to manufacture them.