Archive through October 15, 2010

[kmcconaughey]

Joe, Wayne, the 1x8/9 series first came out I believe they were only available with the square ended 38", 42" and 48" decks shortly thereafter, the rounded 44" and 50" decks became available and the 42" and 48" decks were discontinued. I can't prove this but this sure would indicate it as the case:

Joe,

, I have some stuff all set to mail out to you, it will go out on Monday.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, I'm an old dog,

I don't learn new tricks...

 

[fcurrier]

Working on improvements . . . Impressive!

 

[mgonitzke]

I think the 44" and 50" decks came out at the very end of the 1x8/9 series, in about 1974 or so. I had a '74 128 that had a factory 44" deck (441 as opposed to 44A).

 

[stanner]

My 149, sold in May of 1973, had the 42" deck, w/ flat runners, as in the pictures below...

 

[dross]

My 149 came from a farmer who's dad had bought 1 149 and liked it enough he bought anouther one for his FIL. the first one had a 42" deck the second 6 months later had the 44" deck. I have that one (I believe). It's birthday is Jan. 73.

 

[stanner]

I wonder if early 73 was the changeover, with the 42 sold with mine coming out of stock reserves...

 

[pbell]

The CPE-2 Parts Manual says the 44" deck (with ID tag 441U111) and the 50" (ID tag 501U1111) were built 1973 to 1974. The 44A and 50A were built 1974 to 1981. The 44C and 50C were built 1979 and "since". (manual is dated 1-82). The 38", 42", and 48" were built in some version from 1968 to 1974, and the 38A from 1974 to 1981, with the 38C built 1979 and "since".

 

[mhomrighausen]

Vince T. You've rescued another 125. Good job!!!

Dennis F. I remember an old IH dealer telling me the Letter through 3/450 series were cad plated. I tried to go after the JD 316 that Sauer Danfoss used only to pull the oil wagon around that they pumped the oil from the steel walk grating traps. It was "traded" (dealersip told them basically it was only worth $200.00 and they would take it off their hands). That tractor had never seen any mowing in all its years. I went to the dealership to inquire and was told they didn't have a price on it and to come back the next day. I did and it was magically "sold".

Art A. and Dennis.... pics in the Off topic section.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Just remembered.... this was my payment for plowing the neighbor's garden. Now I just need one more to have a matched set.

 

[nbartee]

Got a question, guys, probably a stupid one. Is the hydro the same on a 1450 as a 782? Can you just replace the front plate with a ported one on an unported hydro? I don't know zip about hydraulics!

Thanks

Norm

 

[mhomrighausen]

Norm B. There is never a stupid question. Both the 1450 and 782 should be ported 15Us. I'm not sure about the coupling for the driveshaft however a quick check in the parts lookup section should reveal that. Now if you take the complete casting from the aluminum section then you can simply switch from non to ported pump. You will need necessary gaskets and seals. Here is my post on how to convert a non ported to ported pump.

By Marlin Homrighausen (Mhomrighausen) on Thursday, July 22, 2010 - 05:45 pm:


Jeff B. Try this when swapping the non ported section with your ported section.

FIRST make sure everything on the pump AND working area is CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN.

Make a stand of some kind that will hold the 15U so that the aluminum piece is the piece being held securely and the cast iron part is facing straight up. Place the pump that you want to become the ported pump in this holder.

Next remove all the bolts and set them in a holder to make reinstallng in the proper holes easier. Carefully lift up on the cast iron piece until it is free of the shaft. Your valveplates MAY slip off the housing when removing the cast piece. DON'T PANIC!!!

Here is how to tell which is for the pump and which is for the motor. Look at both of them and you will notice that one has ONE small groove leading into the bigger slotted area. THIS is the one for the pump. The pump section is the section with the shaft sticking upward. (Same shaft that you will install a new seal for). The other valveplate has TWO GROOVES or one on each side of the bigger slot. This is because the pump only rotates counter clockwise while the motor rotates either direction thus giving the forward/reverse movement. Footnote; Each valveplate has two Major slots. Thus the pump valveplate will have TWO Major slots, each with ONE little lead in groove. Self explanatory for the motor valveplate.

The purpose of the groove(s) is for a smoother and quieter transistion into the desired rotation. There is also a notched area on the outer circumference of each valveplate. That notched area fits around the pin sticking out of the kidney section of the cast iron housing. When you reassemble the pump BE SURE to have each valveplate secured with that notch around the pin. You will know that the valveplate is installed correctly if it sits flat against the surface.

Remove your old seal using the wood/metal screw method that Donald T. talked about.

Now to hold those valveplates onto the cast iron housing while you slip the cast iron piece over the shaft and set it down.... ( I assume that you've used brake cleaner to clean and dry the surface areas).... use either grease or vaseline on the bottom of the valveplate to act as a holding agent.

Okay ... you've set the ported housing onto the aluminum section. Install your bolts and retorque to spec. There is no pattern so make your own up.

Now before you install the new seal here is where some of the guys on the Forum can give you their suggestions as to what to use for a bullet (Protector) of the seal so that you don't accidently cut it while installing it. They probably have better ideas than mine so let them speak.

Once the seal is installed and before putting the pump back on your Cub Cadet don't forget to prime the critter with oil. 15Us are not self priming. You should now be ready to reinstall on your Cub and be on your way to adding power steering.

If at anytime you have questions don't fret about asking. If you can post pictures so we can give you a better perspective. AND keep us posted...

 

[nbartee]

Thanks for the info, Marvin, very helpful and I'll keep it for future reference.

When I did a parts lookup, the cast iron housing is different from a 1450 & a 782 and the picture for the 1450 doesn't show it's ported. What am I missing? Doesn't the 1450 have hydraulic lift?

 

[jbliler]

Marlin--- good luck with that search for a weight! Took me over 4 years out west to trip over another one on the cheap.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Norm B. I just checked the cub Cadet parts look up for a 1250 non ported, 1450 and 1650. Someone has screwed up and listed the non ported instead of the ported parts. Your 1450 like your 782 is a ported hydro unless someone changed them out. go ahead and compare. some linkage parts may need to be changed is all.

 

[dwilkinson]

128 Clutch pilot bushing. I have replaced all clutch and drive shaft components or rebuilt same and now after about 25 hr of trouble free operation the tractor suddenlu developed a new and significant vibration. It is the pilot bushing which was new and lubricated and correctly(?) fitted to a new shaft. Now has about 1/8" slop. WHY ??? I have a fair bit of experience on stuff like this; just not on a cub and it makes no sense to me. Need some help. Thanks

 

[dross]

Doug, Did you make sure that new shaft was straight?

 

[dwilkinson]

Dave: New and straight! I now have it apart and can't see anything wrong. I put one anti-rattle spring on the clutch drive pins during assembly and I wonder if this is creating some sort of side load. In any case it is broken so it won't go back in - I'll operate without any anti-rattle. When I first installed the bushing, it was too tight so I bored it a bit on a lathe to give it some clearance and then used grease during assembly. Has not been lubed since. Should it be? I still don't see anything that should have caused this failure.

 

[mgonitzke]

Were there any burrs on the end of the driveshaft, and was the engine bolted to the frame straight? I bet misalignment could do that.

 

[dwilkinson]

There is no excess slop in engine mount holes in either the engine pan or the frame. I don't know of a way to check the alignment- it seems to be built in. If you guys know how to do an alignment check, I'll do it. Thanks.