Archive through October 09, 2015

[jbaker]

John, you are a real cubber with yellar and white fever

 

[kshultz]

Matt,
These aren't very good pics, but it looks like mine is mounted a little higher on my 73.

 

[snicklas]

Quick question... on my 1650, the little plastic collar that slides into the top of the steering gear "pipe" under the steering wheel has slid up out of the pipe and is just barely catching. The steering is still kinda tight (haven't taken the front knuckles apart yet, from another post) so there are times the collar will completely pop out of the pipe, and the wheel just flops around inside the column. Is there a trick to get this collar to slide back into the column, or am I going to have to remove the steering wheel to fix it? I don't want to damage the steering column so I need to fix this, since this is also my snowthrower tractor, which as we all know makes the steering more difficult.......

 

[digger]

Scott N.
There's 3 ways to fix it.
Get it back in the tube.
1. Take a center punch and peen a dimple in the tube in a couple spots.
2. Drill a couple tiny holes and add a screw to both sides.
3. Pop the steering wheel off and put a new front wheel bearing in place of the plastic bushing.

 

[jbaker]

Scott option 3 is very easy and works the best imho

 

[sblunier]

.....Option #2 is the best fix without removing steering wheel...this is a BIG factor!!!! it's the option I would choose until I needed to remove wheel for something else, then I would use the wheel bearing trick in #3.

 

[jmitchell]

Well now...I've made progress, managed to get one serviceable carb rebuilt and installed, plus sediment bowl cleaned and back on. Cleaned every ground on the machine and both terminals on the starter/gen and it turns over! I'm pretty sure it came down to the terminals on the starter/gen in the first place. I had loosened them, and then got distracted, the just proceeded to put the battery in and hit the switch, and the motor turned over..Then I recalled that the nuts on the S/G terminals were loose, I retightened them, hit the switch again and then got nothing... Hmmmm..So I took the nuts off, used a brass brush and shot of parts cleaner and got the terminals and wire ends clean, put the nuts on tight and it turns over great, everytime I tried it..So,.I put on new gas line, remounted the tank, splashed some gas in and turned it over with the choke on and the engine refused to fire...Checked the plug and discovered it's not firing the plug...It has a new condenser, a new points to coil wire, and I am confused as to why it doesn't fire now..

Can anyone steer me in the direction I need to go in covering the procedure of installing and gapping a new set of points in the K301A? I'll likely go ahead and replace the coil as well..I figure any new 12 volt old school Chevy or Ford coil should work fine..

Getting closer gents, getting closer!

Thanks to all you guys. I appreciate all the info and ideas ya'll have shared..

 

[wshytle]

I've had the same problem in the past with the plastic piece popping out and the steering wheel wabbling back and forth. I fixed it by replacing with a wheel bearing like Charlie mentioned and then making a spacer out if 1" pipe about 3/8" long. The spacer keeps the wheel bearing in place and fills the gap between the steering wheel and the top of the tube. I think this was the reason for the foam washer that IH put there but that I just don't know for sure. I actually never understood the reason for this foam washer.

Again, just my .02 worth.

Also, what is the reason for the foam washer???

.

 

[danderson]

John-You need to use a coil with an internal resistor. An automotive coil may or may not have one. If it doesn't it will burn your points.

 

[dmay]

Which size wheel bearing. 3/4" or 1"?