-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through October 07, 2013
- Thread starter jbaker
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
DAVE TOTZKE - Replacing the inner rod in a lift lever can be done, but finding a replacement rock shaft is probably easier unless you have a pretty well equipped shop.
Carefully remove the rockshaft from the tractor like Tom H said, and remove the rest of the inner rod, it will come out the bottom of the lift lever but will bend when it hits the rockshaft, you'll have to straighten it out to get the correct length of the replacement inner rod you'll be making. I'd get the new top button, spring, & washer from one of the sponsors here, and carefully measure the whole length of the inner rod including the bent end on the bottom and the twisted off threaded end on top. Then get a 3 ft length of the same diameter rod from a hardware store, I forget if it's 5/16" or 3/8", cut it to length, cut threads on the top end so the buttom screws on, and install the washer & spring, then the button. Feed the new rod you made down from the top of the lift lever and clamp it some how so it stays extended out the bottom, small pair of vice-grips on the bottoom works. Then you have to HEAT & BEND the bottom end so it can engage the slots in the quadrant on the bottom. I have an acetylene torch so I used that to heat the rod red hot, but a MAPP gas torch might work, I tried a propane torch and it wasn't hot enough. I drilled a hole in a piece of 1/2" dia round bar the same depth as the length of the bent end, then heated the new rod, slid the drilled 1/2" rod over the new inner rod and bent it. Keep in mind you're working with red hot steel, it'll burn you if you're not careful.
The first time I tried to replace the inner rod I tried pushing it up from below and it bends the new inner rod when it hits the rockshaft and starts into the lift lever and the new rod will stick, so don't waste your time trying it that way.
The parts books from when these old NF tractors were new show that inner rod was "NLA", meaning you can't simply replace it with a new inner rod because it was part of a complete assembly welded in a jig by IH. The inner rod was installed prior to welding the left lever to the rockshaft, but it CAN be replaced. I went thru that all about 10-12 yrs ago on my CC #72 and my replacement inner rod has worked great.
Carefully remove the rockshaft from the tractor like Tom H said, and remove the rest of the inner rod, it will come out the bottom of the lift lever but will bend when it hits the rockshaft, you'll have to straighten it out to get the correct length of the replacement inner rod you'll be making. I'd get the new top button, spring, & washer from one of the sponsors here, and carefully measure the whole length of the inner rod including the bent end on the bottom and the twisted off threaded end on top. Then get a 3 ft length of the same diameter rod from a hardware store, I forget if it's 5/16" or 3/8", cut it to length, cut threads on the top end so the buttom screws on, and install the washer & spring, then the button. Feed the new rod you made down from the top of the lift lever and clamp it some how so it stays extended out the bottom, small pair of vice-grips on the bottoom works. Then you have to HEAT & BEND the bottom end so it can engage the slots in the quadrant on the bottom. I have an acetylene torch so I used that to heat the rod red hot, but a MAPP gas torch might work, I tried a propane torch and it wasn't hot enough. I drilled a hole in a piece of 1/2" dia round bar the same depth as the length of the bent end, then heated the new rod, slid the drilled 1/2" rod over the new inner rod and bent it. Keep in mind you're working with red hot steel, it'll burn you if you're not careful.
The first time I tried to replace the inner rod I tried pushing it up from below and it bends the new inner rod when it hits the rockshaft and starts into the lift lever and the new rod will stick, so don't waste your time trying it that way.
The parts books from when these old NF tractors were new show that inner rod was "NLA", meaning you can't simply replace it with a new inner rod because it was part of a complete assembly welded in a jig by IH. The inner rod was installed prior to welding the left lever to the rockshaft, but it CAN be replaced. I went thru that all about 10-12 yrs ago on my CC #72 and my replacement inner rod has worked great.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Newbie and already stuck..
I have a 782... should I be in Lawn tractor section and not here in Cub Cadet Garden tractor?
I have a 782... should I be in Lawn tractor section and not here in Cub Cadet Garden tractor?
Tony, the 782 is a Garden Tractor. And WELCOME!
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Dave T. Dennis F. is correct about using the MAPP gas. I learned to use it for almost everything that I have to use heat on while I worked at Lennox in Marshalltown. By far better for heating things up quickly. Plus if you buy one of the newer tops then you can actually control the heat with a wide range of flame control.
Also... awhile back I believe there was a discussion about whether or not IH had welded a piece of rectangular stock onto the ends of the lift arm rod. That was purely a dealer or previous owner thing. This summer while working on the 147 and parts 127 I had the pleasure of learning all about those lift rods. Both tractors had broken/missing pieces. A good thing to do before trying to ever remove the top button is to use a good rust remover and once the handle has been removed from the tractor spray the penetrant from the bottom of the lift rod inside and let it work its way around the threads of the button BEFORE trying to remove. I use either STRONG ARM Spray or CONKLIN for rusty parts. Both work better than PB Blaster or anything else that I've tried. Other products may be out there for personal preference though.
Also... awhile back I believe there was a discussion about whether or not IH had welded a piece of rectangular stock onto the ends of the lift arm rod. That was purely a dealer or previous owner thing. This summer while working on the 147 and parts 127 I had the pleasure of learning all about those lift rods. Both tractors had broken/missing pieces. A good thing to do before trying to ever remove the top button is to use a good rust remover and once the handle has been removed from the tractor spray the penetrant from the bottom of the lift rod inside and let it work its way around the threads of the button BEFORE trying to remove. I use either STRONG ARM Spray or CONKLIN for rusty parts. Both work better than PB Blaster or anything else that I've tried. Other products may be out there for personal preference though.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Tony H. WELCOME Aboard!!!
By chance... Do you have any pictures of your Cub Cadet that you can share?
Frank C. This one's for you!!!
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Hey, That's what everyone calls me "Tony H" in fact if the rules weren't first initial/last name. Tony H would have been my USERNAME
This is the 782 as it rolled it off my little trailer.
I have tons of questions but I am confused.. There are no separate Threads here? Just a running commentary? OK so I'm in teh right arae for my 782 questions.
I'm not used to this format.
This is the 782 as it rolled it off my little trailer.
I have tons of questions but I am confused.. There are no separate Threads here? Just a running commentary? OK so I'm in teh right arae for my 782 questions.
I'm not used to this format.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
This should have been the first one
Battery charger already hooked up. Will get a seat, AFTER the major wiring work. It runs but it was stolen from the previous owner and the wiring was butchered. I am very good mechanically. I have several Wiring diagrams, just wondering why some wiring runs through this PTO Switch, when I think it should just go direct to things like , Starter Solenoid. Are these safety features, as in wont start unless PTO is off and trani is in neutral? Whe nI start buzzing out and looking at the Actual functionality of these switches I will have legit questions to ask. I've never messed with wiring on a small tractor, it'll take time to understand why they did what they did
Battery charger already hooked up. Will get a seat, AFTER the major wiring work. It runs but it was stolen from the previous owner and the wiring was butchered. I am very good mechanically. I have several Wiring diagrams, just wondering why some wiring runs through this PTO Switch, when I think it should just go direct to things like , Starter Solenoid. Are these safety features, as in wont start unless PTO is off and trani is in neutral? Whe nI start buzzing out and looking at the Actual functionality of these switches I will have legit questions to ask. I've never messed with wiring on a small tractor, it'll take time to understand why they did what they did
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Tony H.:
I'll be following your progress since just acquiring a CCC made 1811 which I'm understanding is very similar to your 782.
Oh, P.S. - what I've done (a lot) is go to the SEARCH function and punch in 1811. Do that for your 782 and settle back for lots of reading.
Oh, P.S. - what I've done (a lot) is go to the SEARCH function and punch in 1811. Do that for your 782 and settle back for lots of reading.
TONY - Welcome to the best IH CC forum on the 'net. You'll get used to this forum style, It works well. Plus there's no minute delay on this forum for a page of posts to come up because there's not 10 megabites of pop-up ads loading.
You read the fine print in the CC 782 operators manual and there were safety switches for starting on many functions. No start with PTO on, no start if no operator in the seat, no start without clutch/brake pedal depressed, no cut in reverse, meaning the PTO would shut down when you moved the hydro lever to reverse so you didn't back up over small pets and children and run over them with the mower running.
But in the 30+ yrs since these tractors were built, as you've found out, a pair of wire cutters are a DANGEROUS weapon in some people's hands, they cut up the OEM wire harness and wire it to suit themselves, most times with terrible results.
You look on the home page of the forum, on the bottom of the page there's topics with wiring diagrams, operator's & service & parts manuals. Buy a fresh ink cartridge for your printer and a ream of paper and print off ALL the manuals for your new 782. Buy a cheap 3-ring binder and start your ADDICTION!
Once you get all the bugs out of your 782 you'll find IH made the best garden tractor built. There's some guys who think other-wise, but we allow them to be WRONG on here just the same.
You read the fine print in the CC 782 operators manual and there were safety switches for starting on many functions. No start with PTO on, no start if no operator in the seat, no start without clutch/brake pedal depressed, no cut in reverse, meaning the PTO would shut down when you moved the hydro lever to reverse so you didn't back up over small pets and children and run over them with the mower running.
But in the 30+ yrs since these tractors were built, as you've found out, a pair of wire cutters are a DANGEROUS weapon in some people's hands, they cut up the OEM wire harness and wire it to suit themselves, most times with terrible results.
You look on the home page of the forum, on the bottom of the page there's topics with wiring diagrams, operator's & service & parts manuals. Buy a fresh ink cartridge for your printer and a ream of paper and print off ALL the manuals for your new 782. Buy a cheap 3-ring binder and start your ADDICTION!
Once you get all the bugs out of your 782 you'll find IH made the best garden tractor built. There's some guys who think other-wise, but we allow them to be WRONG on here just the same.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Tom H and Jeff B - "what is that hole for in the fender pan next to the wheel" on QL units. I think the hole you're referring to is on the inside stiffening panel that strengths the entire assembly. I believe that hole originated when these style fenders were introduced on the 1x6/7 series, and was to allow ability to grease the linkage for the hydro speed control. I believe the earlier hydro tractors had a hole in the frame and a cover over the hole. In all cases it's really not good access.
Jeremiah - where ya at with that heat shield and muffler for your 149?
Bill J - you've actually got a nice looking 1650. I don't see hardly any rust on the tractor itself and the sheet metal looks good and pretty well aligned. You do need just a little more lift on the hood support so the decals line up and your hood doesn't wear thru the fiberglass. The rubbers for your light bulbs probably need to be rotated to where the slots are parallel. This will allow your bulbs to sit in the correct horizontal positions so the beams shine correctly. But all this is just tidbit details so you can approach a 100point unit. The more important things are how is it running? Driving? Steering? And when are you ordering the paint?
Tony H - welcome to the Forum. You mentioned your 782 "was stolen from the previous owner". That sure sounds as tho you're admitting you stole the unit - but we all know you couldn't have done that. I just don't understand why someone would be cutting up the wiring.
Jeremiah - where ya at with that heat shield and muffler for your 149?
Bill J - you've actually got a nice looking 1650. I don't see hardly any rust on the tractor itself and the sheet metal looks good and pretty well aligned. You do need just a little more lift on the hood support so the decals line up and your hood doesn't wear thru the fiberglass. The rubbers for your light bulbs probably need to be rotated to where the slots are parallel. This will allow your bulbs to sit in the correct horizontal positions so the beams shine correctly. But all this is just tidbit details so you can approach a 100point unit. The more important things are how is it running? Driving? Steering? And when are you ordering the paint?
Tony H - welcome to the Forum. You mentioned your 782 "was stolen from the previous owner". That sure sounds as tho you're admitting you stole the unit - but we all know you couldn't have done that. I just don't understand why someone would be cutting up the wiring.
Tony H.
Nice 782! You got cool wheel weights too!
Everyone who has the 60" deck for the Supers.
Just what is the best way to get the Haban 60" deck on and off? I'm thinkin' you built a couple of ramps and just drive right over the whole assembly.
I would like to know what others have found to be the best way. Pictures is always good.
Thanks!
Nice 782! You got cool wheel weights too!
Everyone who has the 60" deck for the Supers.
Just what is the best way to get the Haban 60" deck on and off? I'm thinkin' you built a couple of ramps and just drive right over the whole assembly.
I would like to know what others have found to be the best way. Pictures is always good.
Thanks!
mgwin
Well-known member
Were the headlights on an "O" painted with the tractor when it was painted yellow?
Was there a point in time when the lights were left white?
Then the inside of the light would be IH white, right? The reason I ask, every time I run any info on the part #376849 R91 it shows a white light.
Was there a point in time when the lights were left white?
Then the inside of the light would be IH white, right? The reason I ask, every time I run any info on the part #376849 R91 it shows a white light.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Marty,
Lights were dealer installed options. The same lamps were also used on 60's era IH equipment (namely combines), so in many cases the dealer may have had them in stock (in white, the trim color for the combines) and just didn't paint them yellow.....or the warehouse shipped them as white (same part number).
Accessory items like weights and lights often came painted "wrong" (color of the other application).........dealer's use of spray can was difference before it left the shop, and in some cases (like "O" headlights), IH white lamps matching the IH white hood may have been "good enough" and the spray can stayed on the shelf!
It isn't uncommon for that to happen even today. A few years back I ordered a deck baffle from MTD for a 54" deck. It came shipped Yard Machines red. Same part must have been used on another brand deck.
Lights were dealer installed options. The same lamps were also used on 60's era IH equipment (namely combines), so in many cases the dealer may have had them in stock (in white, the trim color for the combines) and just didn't paint them yellow.....or the warehouse shipped them as white (same part number).
Accessory items like weights and lights often came painted "wrong" (color of the other application).........dealer's use of spray can was difference before it left the shop, and in some cases (like "O" headlights), IH white lamps matching the IH white hood may have been "good enough" and the spray can stayed on the shelf!
It isn't uncommon for that to happen even today. A few years back I ordered a deck baffle from MTD for a 54" deck. It came shipped Yard Machines red. Same part must have been used on another brand deck.
mgwin
Well-known member
Steve,
Are you saying the O's did not come from the factory with lights already on them?
Are you saying the O's did not come from the factory with lights already on them?
Marty, headlights were optional on the Original and most Cub Cadets. Even if they were ordered with lights I believe they were installed by the dealer.
