Archive through October 07, 2004

[mhomrighausen]

'Evenin everyone...
It feels good to have tonight off. This would've been my second Saturday in a row and with the ten and twelve hour nights mixed in kinda makes one tired.

I asked a couple of fellas about getting some info on the implement relief spring part number. One gentleman is going to see if it is in a service manual. The other reply was as long as that part is available through other sources (JD, etc) then I may not be able to get spring part number through work. I will know more on Monday.

Charlie... I have to check also on Monday on the caps. The PR person wasn't in yesterday.

Dave K. A BIG Thank You for the invitation to use your 109 at PD. I get real nervous however using another's tractor. I have some homemade weights for the rear wheels only nothing made to the front. Also, I will need to put the chains on since I have turf tires. I can see if I could borrow the ag tires off my son's 1810 though.

Apostle... Yeah you are right plowing would see if the 104 needs an overhaul or not. I am going to put in new points, plug and condensor tomorrow if all goes well. The PO had the wrong coil on it when I got it and the tractor will only run about a half hour while mowing then it will lose power and want to quit running. I have been limping by using the old points,etc. Hopefully I can get it running well enough to go to Plow Day. I have to get my plow polished also.

Oh, one quick question for the forum. The button that allows the lift lever to free float won't allow the lever to float. When I move the lever the button pops out and the lever sticks in the next notch. Any suggestions? TIA.

 

[digger]

Earl,
If your getting all this,

You really should click on one of the pretty colored boxes above and order some manuals, YOU REALLY DON'T WANT TO DO THIS WITHOUT ONE, if you've never done it before.

 

[digger]

Marlin, I posted the JD PN and diagram here yesterday on this page, if that would help. ;-p
On your lift handle, do you have one of these do-hickies on the top? Crappy pic huh!

(Message edited by cproctor on October 09, 2004)

 

[elamott]

Digger:
I have one more question for you.
I have the service manual and the parts manual. Is there some other manuals that I do not have or know about?
Thanks again
Earl

 

[elamott]

Digger:
I have one more question for you.
I have the service manual and the parts manual. Is there some other manuals that I do not have or know about?
Thanks again
Earl

 

[digger]

Earl,
I'll send ya somethin to take a gander at if you have another email address besides that POS hotmail that I can send something besides 10K to. Grrrrrrrr

(Message edited by cproctor on October 09, 2004)

 

[digger]

Oh yea, I almost forgot, we had plans to go visit baldy in Iowa today but he had to do some roofin, so we decided to snatch another 1650 instead, grin

 

[pdorow]

Earl,

Is the hydro new or used ?

If it is used I would go through & replace all the seals---- trunion, front and rear shaft seals, center section gasket etc.

I purchased one use and after intall had leaks, had to take it back out and put all new seals in it. What do they say,learn from your mistakes.

 

[farmall gray]

Bryan,
I understand that they don't want to keep parts
that don't sell. I was also kind of assuming that
I wasn't the only one who had bought any. I just figured that if I had bought 2 in 3 years, that there had to be someone else out there who had bought them too. Maybe everyone else gets them from a JD dealer. ;-)

 

[dallen]

Did the 104 and the 100 use the same front axle, and steering column? Where the frames different?

TIA

 

[dvogt]

front axles were the same. steering gears were different as are the frames.

 

[tcrenshaw]

hello this is my first time posting on here but i have a cub cadet 102 and was wondering where i could find that little dohickey that go on the top of the lift handle that was pictured earlier.thanks for the help

 

[dkamp]

Earl-
Before you dismantle that 1x9, disconnect the voltage regulator, pull the fenders off, pull the tractor up on a utility trailer, and take it to your local car wash... drop $5 in quarters into the high-pressure sprayer, and rinse the whole darned thing out with high-pressure soap... rinse it 'till all the crud falls off, then rinse it again... then rinse it again. Rinse every place you can get spray to go, and try really hard up around the hydrostat unit- having this area spotless will really improve the ease and finish quality of the task.

Next... you don't HAVE to 'break the tractor' in order to change out the hydrostat or install the kit. If you can jockey the driveshaft out, it's possible to just lift the hydrostat out through the top of the wide-frame. That's the way I do it!

 

[thoffman]

Tim "C",
Yup, Still can get that part.

 

[tthompson]

Tim

The part you want is on ebay regularly. You may also be able to get it from the dealer.

 

[rchristensen]

Just a couple of quick comments. I have a high pressure washer and I clean my Cubs when I am going to split them and I can't believe the amount of water you can force into the rear end through the breather on the back without even trying. So I recommend you pull the rear plate and change hydro fluid and filter any time you wash a Cub with a high pressure washer.

On removing the hydro without pulling the rear end, I have done it both ways and it takes me less time when I remove the rear end. Its much easier to replace the cork gasket too when the rear end is out and facing up. Disconnecting the brakes and the 6 bolts holding the rear end are not that time consuming and your fingers don't get cut up as bad. Just my .02 peso's.

 

[jrichardson]

Tim C. you can get that clip from Madsons. Just go to the top of the page and you will see boxes that will hook you up with all you need. They only run a few dollars.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Charlie, Nope.... mine is that pesky side button that you have to push in. I wish that I had that top critter though. I am going to take that JD part number into along with the diagram to work also. Those are nice looking glass IH squares. Your picture of the Cub with the dog on it should be on a calender.

Had too many little errands to run today so I didn't get a chance to work on the 104 at all. Since the truck didn't bring in the parts yesterday for us to work on there might be a chance of work next weekend. I hope for at least one day to work on the Cub between now and Plow Day. What the heck if I didn't plow I would at least have a Cub to drive around on.

 

[sblunier]

Splitting the tractor:

Richard is right, it takes more time to try and get the foot rest cap screws out than it does to pull a rear end.

 

[dkamp]

I agree, Richard- I wouldn't think of pressure-washing without changing the hy-tran, but after workin' on a leaky-hydro full of gak, I found that hozing'em down good sure made it easier to keep the whole works clean. I clean fasteners, tools... I hate workin' on greezy-grimy stuff- I seem to get it all over everything... it's a derivative of the 'midas touch', but not to be confused with the 'Fecal Midas Touch'... (that's those days where everything I touch turns to $#it)

Anyway, I've never had any difficulty getting the gasket to go in right... I pull the cover off the adhesive, stick the gasket to the hydrostat, and slide it right in, no problems. Perhaps I'm doing something wrong? I haven't had a leak problem yet...

On an aside note, I was running the 109 the other day (well, I'll confess- I try to run it every day!) but I realized that I hadn't checked the oil since the 2nd or 3rd day after draining the break-in oil. Pulled up the dipstick, and didn't see any oil! ????

So I got a clean shop-rag, wiped off the stick, and then noticed that there WAS oil on the stick. Dipped it again, then held it up to the light... sure enough, the oil level was perfect... just too darned clean to see. I guess the rebuild went okay... I can't remember ever having an engine yield such clean oil...