Kraig M: Haven't had time to work on the 71 since I posted last. I had the same manual you posted when I put it together. I'm starting to wonder if I may have pushed the bearing back on the crank when I installed the clutch, and now the whole assembly is too far back and there is too much distance between the wear button and the thrust button. I have a 105 also, and was looking at it for guidance. The bracket that the wear button pivots on is much closer to the clutch on the 105 than on the 71. I noticed in the manual it refers to a "snap ring" that I'm assuming acts as a stop for the bearing inside the clutch. I don't recall seeing a "snap ring" inside my clutch, I just figured the bearing bottomed out when it hit the furthest point inside the clutch. Maybe that's my problem. Appreciate the help, I'll post again once I get it apart.
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Archive through October 05, 2010
- Thread starter mgonitzke
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Hi Guys,
Need some insight... the cast end deck on my 100 is not being supported by the subframe correctly when the lift lever is all the way down. Even with the eye bolts adjusted all the way up, the front of the deck is an inch and a half lower than the back end. With the deck completely lowered the front end is resting on the floor while the back gauge wheels spin freely. Why is this happening? A knowledgable friend insists that bending the "forked" bar on the subframe about 30 degrees upwards will fix it. Something strange is going on. Has anyone else run into this problem?
Need some insight... the cast end deck on my 100 is not being supported by the subframe correctly when the lift lever is all the way down. Even with the eye bolts adjusted all the way up, the front of the deck is an inch and a half lower than the back end. With the deck completely lowered the front end is resting on the floor while the back gauge wheels spin freely. Why is this happening? A knowledgable friend insists that bending the "forked" bar on the subframe about 30 degrees upwards will fix it. Something strange is going on. Has anyone else run into this problem?
Steve S., check the lift rockshaft where the fork from the mower deck subframe rides. I bet it's worn about half way through. If not then you can bend that fork up as Steve; B. describes in a post that I reposted a while back HERE I bet there's wear in the lift tabs at the front of the deck subframe as well. I had to go through one of my deck subframes this summer and have a friend weld up all the wear spots. now it's better than new.
Matt G.,Dennis F.,thank you for the help I am sorry that I couldn't give more info but after looking at it somemore I saw what was wrong I put the throwout bearing in backwards the collar on the bearing was back towards the spring on the driveshaft.I got back apart now turning it around so I hope it goes better this time.I did get the hyd. lift installed and I have forgot what it was like I grew up on a 100 cub cadet with a rear PTO and hyd. lift.Joey.
Was the series one or the series two kohler the better engine?
Steve S., here are a couple of photos of the deck parts that my friend Art welded up for me. Note that I had him add some wings to the fork to provide a wider bearing surface on the lift rockshaft and he welded up the front lift tabs.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Lucas-
Series II.
Series II.
Dennis
Yes that's the part I'm talking about, and I have eliminated the side play as well in so far on the bushings I have worked on. Nylatron is cheaper, and much more forgiving to a point when working, and I think this would be a perfect application... I just had second thoughts being IH used cast iron bushing here, and a cast iron bushing may be the best bushing material in 99% of circumstances. I don't see any load on this shaft so I will give it a try, if it doesn't work I can always try a bronze bushing, impregnated SAE 30 weight oil, and if all else fails go back with cast iron.
Once this is fixed, along with bring the worn pins up to spec, and of course the T-slot maybe she will be ready to go for a few more good years.
Yes that's the part I'm talking about, and I have eliminated the side play as well in so far on the bushings I have worked on. Nylatron is cheaper, and much more forgiving to a point when working, and I think this would be a perfect application... I just had second thoughts being IH used cast iron bushing here, and a cast iron bushing may be the best bushing material in 99% of circumstances. I don't see any load on this shaft so I will give it a try, if it doesn't work I can always try a bronze bushing, impregnated SAE 30 weight oil, and if all else fails go back with cast iron.
Once this is fixed, along with bring the worn pins up to spec, and of course the T-slot maybe she will be ready to go for a few more good years.
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Steve-
Yes, the "forks" on the subframe should run parallel. If you've got a better subframe, use that one.
Richard-
That engine is looking Sa-Weet!
Kraig-
In one post you said I welded up those subframes for you. In another post you said "a friend" welded them up. Well... Which one is it? LOL!
Yes, the "forks" on the subframe should run parallel. If you've got a better subframe, use that one.
Richard-
That engine is looking Sa-Weet!
Kraig-
In one post you said I welded up those subframes for you. In another post you said "a friend" welded them up. Well... Which one is it? LOL!
Kraig, Thanks for the information...sounds like natural wear on the subframe could be the source of it all. Do the edges of the pickle fork need to be exactly parallel? I have several other spare subframes that may be better choices if this matters... I'm not sure if I'd be better off trying one of those or just bending this one. I guess I'd rather avoid bending metal unless it's the only option.
From the FAQ's regarding super steering upgrade:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Look for any of the following: 1340, 1535, 1541, 1860, 1862. Essentially the 782-type frame'd "cyclops" style
Cub Cadets without power steering. From memory, I remember that it's not necessarily found on all of these models because it was used in only some serial number ranges.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">
Is this then a complete list of the units to look for? There seems to be a bit of uncertainty. Is there something to look for physically to distinguish them? And no power steering equipped ones had it? Forgive my lack of knowing the >1981 models but are all 'Supers' under these models or where there SGT models that do not have the super steer front axles?</font>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Look for any of the following: 1340, 1535, 1541, 1860, 1862. Essentially the 782-type frame'd "cyclops" style
Cub Cadets without power steering. From memory, I remember that it's not necessarily found on all of these models because it was used in only some serial number ranges.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<font size="-1">
Is this then a complete list of the units to look for? There seems to be a bit of uncertainty. Is there something to look for physically to distinguish them? And no power steering equipped ones had it? Forgive my lack of knowing the >1981 models but are all 'Supers' under these models or where there SGT models that do not have the super steer front axles?</font>
Thanks for the info Matt
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Richard T,
I like the color coordinated jack-stands...
The TCS Valspar is real close to the factory 1x8/9 color, I have an original part that has been off the tractor since new,and it matches up nice...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Tristan-
All of the Cyclops GTs have a super steer axle (but not the supers) and there are two different ones. They all have it, regardless of whether or not they have PS. You want the early variation (1860, 1861, 1862, 1535, 1541) instead of the late version (1440, 1641, 1863, 1864) because the later version raises the front of the tractor a couple inches and will screw up the geometry of your front blade and possibly the snowthrower, too. The earlier version is a bit beefier, too IMO.
All of the Cyclops GTs have a super steer axle (but not the supers) and there are two different ones. They all have it, regardless of whether or not they have PS. You want the early variation (1860, 1861, 1862, 1535, 1541) instead of the late version (1440, 1641, 1863, 1864) because the later version raises the front of the tractor a couple inches and will screw up the geometry of your front blade and possibly the snowthrower, too. The earlier version is a bit beefier, too IMO.
J
jott
Guest
Paul B, Read on the bottom were it says 3 position control. i may have read it wrong, but thats how i understood it. Yes i know you arent suppose to leave it in the center position, and i dont. I was just making an observation.
Art, if you reread my second post, I wrote "my friend Art" I was just telling all who my friend from the first post is, or should I say; who my friend was.
Hmmm, detail from the Creeper Datasheet.
Creeper info from the 1x2/3 Operator's Manual.
Creeper info from the 1x2/3 Operator's Manual.
Oh, I found the reason for the difference:
Josh, no you read it correctly, I was just joking around. I can see where you would be confused. I believe the data sheet was made up by the sales group before the creeper was fully designed and/or the sales group never talked with engineering. I'd go with what the manual states.
