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Archive through November 25, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Larry, the axles will swap but they are different and use different spindles. The 127 is a narrow frame the 149 is a wide frame. I believe you have to pull the engine to drive the pivot pin out. Here's a few photos comparing narrow and wide frame axles.

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Larry, you are gonna love messing w/those front axle bushings!!! NOT!
They are "spun welded" into the 'C' channel and have to be cut out. It will require the use of a sawzall or some other similar tool to split the bushings , then they will have to be chiseled out w/an impact hammer. These are from 2 years ago when I started on the 126 that I finished up this summer, it was a real PITA!!

Be sure and do the "squeeze" on the channel while you are at it to take up at fore and aft slop. What with doing that, new tie rod ends and a box overhaul w/the added bearing, your Cub will handle like new!!

The bushings were available yet at that time, don't know about now though. Yo may have to make your own. I do not think there is a bushing in the axle though. The main 3/4" pin is spirol pinned to the front bushing and does not turn. Many PO's must not have known there is a grease fitting on the rear underside on the axle!

Here are some pic's.....

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Hydro - Thanks! I know that the stuff today is so problematic and so expensive that its hard for me to even consider one. Thanks to computers it not to bad to keep a classic tractor alive.

Kraig- That picture u posted Wed was right on! Thanks
 
Oh my............
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This is NOT what I wanted to see guys!!

My dream was just knocking a pin out, installing a bushing in the axle and making new pin and sticking it back together. Ya, right. You guys are real dream killers..............LOL!!

Thanks much for the pics David. Thanks for the info on the axles Kraig. Forgot about the wide/narrow deal.

Guess I'll just have to tear the motor out of the 127 and do it the right(easier) way. I work at a machine shop so making bushings is not a problem. I had thoughts of putting a zerk fitting in the axle to get grease to it, or drill the pin and grease it that way.

I had the 127 running yesterday for about 15 minutes. It starts and idles smooth with a bit of carb adjustment. No smoke. Really pleased with it.

I pulled the deck off, along with the hanging assembly(whatever it is called). So I guess the motor will come out and I can get the frame jacked up tall so I can get at the axle mount. I'll spend the winter getting it rebuilt and installed along with cleaning up the deck. I can get this tractor back together in time for mowing and use it while I fix the 149 next spring. The 149 is no where near as bad but still something I've wanted to rebuild but couldn't afford the time as it mows and plows snow and having it torn apart and running into possible problems(like usual) was not my plan.
 

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I am no long time machinist, engineer, or mechanic by trade. So take my advice as you wish. I freakin' make LUVS and PAMPERS diapers for a living (30+yrs) and hate it, but the pay is decent. Ok, enough of that!

Larry, don't bang your head too much.

In my spare time, I have worked on a lot of narrow frame Cub Cadets. MOST of the time (not saying all) the pivot pin gets the wear, but with very little to the bushings. I have had good luck just installing a new pivot pin. I know it may not be 100% slop free, but alot of the time it is much better. Yours may be different.

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Thanks Marlin and Kraig!

Larry, I'd wait until you actually pull the axle pin out and check it before deciding on the path to repair. Dave's way is back to new. I've done a couple axle swaps/repairs but not had to go that far yet on replacing the bushing. And now I've cursed myself for the next one!!! Lol.
I did a super steer swap on dad's 1450 and it turns great! Look up in Charlie's cubfaq for that. Even finding a later quiet line(not all of them though) or 82 series axle would get you 1 inch spindle bearings, best way for doing trailer tire deal. I do agree on pulling the engine to work on the axle, I did on 1450. A lot easier.
 
Well, if it turns out it is just the pin, then I'm golden. I can take a bit of wiggle, but what it is now is way too bad. I'm assuming the worst right now. Luckily I have a full selection of machines to do any kind of repair needed. I've got a G/L Horizontal mill at my disposal that I could put the WHOLE tractor up on with room to spare!

After leaning under the tractor and seeing that oil pan hanging down I was like "Really? They couldn't have made more room to access that pin?".

One question, as I don't have my manuals here at work and was curious: Why does the 12HP Kohler have TWO dipsticks? one down low(like my 14 hp) and the tall stick? The tall stick looks broke off as it is way too short to reach anything and looking down the hole you see gears? Do the 12hp have balance gears also?
 
Larry, yes the 12hp, K301, could have balance gears. On the non-balance gear versions the dip stick was behind the starter/generator into the block. On the later engines with balance gears, the dip stick was moved over by the points. I believe on some engines, (transition engines?), like yours, there was a dip stick in both locations before the hole in the casting was plugged.
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Kirk, I'm no machinist. Yes, I play one when I can but only because I had the opportunity to teach myself at work. Just like welding, AUTOCAD and everything else I've learned in the last 30 yrs here. It helps with never ending hobbies I have.

Kraig, interesting. You would have thought they would have just plugged the hole, not put 1/2 a stick in it? I didn't see the stick on the left side til after I got it home. The 149 has a loop on the stick, the 127 just has an alum knob. I pulled the top stick and it showed nothing on it. I was stumped and poured about 1/2 qt in the motor just so I knew it had something in it and not lock up when I started it. Then as it was running I was poking around and saw the little knob on the left side and pulled it and got an oil bath!!! Doh!!! I quickly stuck it back in the hole. I shut it down and checked the level and it was right over the full mark on that stick.
 

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