Archive through November 24, 2014

[digger]

Don T.
The connection on the BOTTOM of your regulator goes to the Generator. The other 3 terminals on the side are self explanatory.

 

[dmerkle]

Doug,
Looks like the blade frame is a 2nd generation frame that was design quick attach system. My blade doesn't have any pins welded in it.

My 100 pushing dirt last summer:

Front view:

 

[sblunier]

You do not have to remove the pulleys to use a mule drive as a blade attachment point.

 

[dtanner]

Yes Charlie there are three wires terminals on the new voltage reg you sent. I did not see installation instructions so I traced the three wires to there source . F field B battery L load (lights ) bottom terminal said ground so I grounded it. Please explain what I did incorrect . I probably burnt up this new regulator and lost 60.00 USA $ and shipping and oh yes time.

 

[lhinds]

Don the bottom terminal says G for generator wire. The lights hook to the charge indicator. With a 4 wire regulator you can use the L terminal for the lights. You have to find the blue or Gen. wire and hook it to the G terminal. It does sound like you have welded points on your battery coil in the regulator.

 

[kide]

I've on occasion had the 129 continue to roll over (not run) when shutting the ignition key off. I've always fixed this with a quick, well aimed whack to the VR... Battery points welded together is what I always figured, resulting in a back feed to the S/G.

Frank C: good to see ya back, I was about ready to have Don send out a search party across the border...

 

[dtanner]

Well here is a few pictures of the second regulator Charlie sent me . first the bottom (no markings ).

I did find markings on the three other tabs and used a white paint marker so you can see them.

I will try and see if I did kill the first one by tracing the gen wire and connecting it to the bottom plug .but there is no mark to say what goes on that post on the bottom of the regulator.

 

[hydroharry]

Doug B - as Dale noted your sub-frame appears to be for a later model narrow frame with a Quick Attach latch. The correct sub-frame would have the ears coming up with 2-holes in each ear rather than the welded pin in each ear. But, whoever had it was actually pretty smart to take a mule drive assembly and cut the sides apart so they could be attached to each welded pin. I don't think you need the sides attached to each other. They will be plenty sturdy once they are bolted to each side of your frame. Just think of it this way - if you had the quick attach latch your sub-frame pins would just sit in the latch, which really isn't a real sturdy attaching method. Your set up is basically the same and I think will work fine. Maybe I'll get up your way some time and see this 123 with the blade - why I'll even test it out and move some stuff around for ya, as long as it ain't snow!!!!

 

[dtanner]

Off with the gas tank to get a probe (wire clip on a post to test .

check out the coating on the wires . they are original and old. I got a small bit of hope that this will charge after that mess I had .
might be a good time to clean up some grounds and other connections.

 

[jbaker]

Don It looks like a scorch mark on the light switch