Archive through November 21, 2014

[jpatchett]

Jeff,

Yes

Tighten your chains, add elastic straps and slow down its winter.

Jim

 

[jbaker]

Jim, if I slowed down I couldn't do this, and the tractor made it all the way thru the drift.

Heres a link to one of my most memorable time using my cubs, it was a great time

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22744/266641.html?1389967514

 

[drglinski]

If you get your chains tight enough you won't need straps. I jack my cub up, let all the air out of the tire, put the chain on tight, then re inflate the tire. No bungees or binders required.

 

[mmoredick]

I like the 12hp of the 124, but I miss my 70. So time to start the winter repairs. That brings a few questions for You all.

First, why does my hood hit my steering wheel when I open it? It all seems and looks original.I do not see any adjustments to the column to raise it.
second, will the 7hp engine work a 42" Deck? I want to get wider turf tires for the rear like my 124 but I see the 38" deck rear wheels do not fit with them.
Last one for tonight, I like the quiet muffler in the 124, can I put one on my 70? I was concerned about back pressure.

 

[sblunier]

Jeff,

Blunier Ramming Speed!!!!!!

 

[kconway]

An update on my dimming lights. The other night when the lights dimmed, it was windy and snowing covering the tractor (and me) in snow. This morning when I used it, it wasn't snowing or blowing so not much snow on the tractor and the lights seemed to be OK and the charge meter needle pointed just barely to the charge side. I wander if something got wet and caused the lights to dim? Guess I'll check the wires and connections this weekend, maybe I'll find a broken wire or something.

 

[dschwandt]

Matt M. the edge of the lower frame rail is probably cracked somewhat right in the corner at the front and bent upwards allowing the grill to lean backwards resulting in the problem you describe.

Probably needs straightened out and welded. Would be a good idea to reinforce that area with a flat washer welded on the bottom side maybe.

I have the same problem w/a 126 I am restoring and discovered cracks in that area after sandblasting the frame.

Or, as a temporary fix, add flat washers under the rear 2 grill mounting bolts to compensate for the rearward tilt. At the very least, check for loose grill mount bolts.

 

[dtanner]

Installing a regulator on my 149 . I used a test wire from the field post to all the 4 plugs that plug onto the new reg one wire at a time. two wires test cont

how do I tell what wire is field ??

 

[jbaker]

yep,, you gotta love "BRS" when using your ih cub cadet in the snow.

 

[sshaff]

A question for the field: My 123 starter generator bracket has become a bit of a nuisance...the threads are stripped in the hole where the ground cable is bolted, so I can't keep a bolt in there and the cable just hangs. Looking for an easy way to keep the cable in place despite the problem...I'd prefer to continue mounting the cable where it belongs. Should I try gluing the bolt in? I suppose I could replace the bracket at some point, but I'm mainly just interested in an adequate fix at the moment.

 

[mfrade]

Steve S., you can use a heli-coil ( or equivalent) to restore the threaded area.

 

[jbaker]

Steve, BTDT,,, I just drill the hole all the way thru the bracket and just use a 3 inch bolt and nut,, done untill you take em off

 

[sshaff]

Mike F -- Looking for something simpler. Thanks, though.

Jeff B -- Might try that. Thanks, too.

 

[lhinds]

Don the yellow wire on your 149 will be the field wire. The terminals should be marked. May have to remove the screws to see the marks. Look in the wireing diagrams section at the bottom of the page.

 

[dtanner]

Luther Ray Hinds
I`am testing the wires to see where they go . my issue is they are all the same color . I have a wire clipped fast to the field wire on the starter gen and then back in the battery box testing and I get signal from two of the wires . I would think only one wire from field should give me a signal. Battery wire is easy because the battery sits under the seat and was easy to find for the regulator, this is a four wire set up. I guess I will have to see somehow why two wires are getting a signal back from the field post . I will soon order new wiring . I think I should be able to trace the field wire back and get a signal to only one wire . I hate electrics . GR

 

[dlbarnett]

Picked up a front blade for the 123 yesterday. Found one just north of me in ferndale. The guy had quite the collection of garden tractors. None of them seemed fixed up or anything though.

I got every thing for the blade except the lift rod, if someone could get me the dimension for one that would be great. Also where it mounts to the front of the tractor frame, is that suppose to be two separate pieces or one?
And last but least, any suggestions for getting the hood not to rattle one this thing.

 

[mmoredick]

Thanks David. I have to pull the engine and wanted to pull the front off at the same time. I will look for cracks.

On another note, I now have a 42" snow push box...... I think I found why the qa42 wasn't performing like i felt it should. When the prior owner put new bearings on the auger, he didn't center it. The auger was off center about 2". I pulled it apart as the shaft on the gear side was bad too.

 

[hydroharry]

Doug B - pictures are worth 1,000,000,000,000. The lift rod for the correct snow blade on a 123 would be 1/2" rod with L-shaped ends, and 32" long center to center. The original attaching method is to use "frame extenders" (one of each side of the frame). They are 1/2" flat stock with 3 holes. I didn't check but they might be shown on the CCC parts look up.

 

[hydroharry]

Doug - I looked in the CCC parts look up and it's screwed up a bit. You have to look under the listing for the 42/54 blade. You need Part No. 19 in the pic. They call them brace extensions. I don't have the dimensions but think they are about 4" long. The lower 2 holes should bolt to your sub-frame and the upper hole either bolts onto the tractor frame but they show using a rod. Part no. 18 is the lift rod you asked about and shows the shape you need to make (hope you can get those right angle ends nice and tight). By the way, do you already have Part No. 21 attached to your lift arm?

 

[rmcshane]

Don- Why don't you do a simple continuity test with a volt meter to find the wire that runs from the F terminal on the SG to the VR??? Then that wire goes on the F terminal on the VR.