Archive through November 21, 2010

[digger]

Tristan S.
Your buying the name!
If your going for new shoes, get the best.
They have more steel and will last a lot longer.

 

[tbenak]

My sister has a QA42 snow thrower for her 147. Does anyone have a picture of the area around the electric lift to show how the lift linkage connects? It would be much appreciated. TIA

 

[digger]

Thomas B.
It's in the manual.
CLICK HERE

 

[jbevans]

Ok, so I posted a picture of the Cub 127 I got for $50 this past weekend. I have never worked on a Kohler engine (internally) yet but when I turn the driveshaft the engine only turns a little bit then stops. When I turn it back the other way, it turns for a little bit and then stops.

My Question: Is there something common in these 12hp Kohler engines that breaks? I am thinking the connecting rod, but I really have no idea. Just trying to see what I may be getting into before I decide what I want to do with this.

Thanks!

JB

 

[dtanner]

Large file in the Sand box !(My parts Haul).Charlie will like the part orders when I get around to it lol.Back at it for me and store some Cub stuf.

 

[dtanner]

JB Evans

What makes you think something is broke? Did you have or hear the engine running?With the compression of that 12K I don`t think you could spin it over with the drive shaft. Did you try to spin it with the starter? More info needed to help if I can.

 

[mschutz]

JB Evans, Yes, it is very common for the connecting rods to go.

 

[jbevans]

Don T- The guy who I bought it off of said that he was mowing his grass and said it started to knock and he turned it off. He said he tried a few days later and it started to knock and he shut it off again. However, I did not try and start it myself.

Melody- Thanks!

Do either of you know if I could just replace the connecting rod or are there other things that would need replaced as well?

Thoughts?

JB

 

[rleo]

Paul Bell, Art A. and Don T.,
Thanks for the insight on the clutch problem with my Original. Now if I can find the time. . .

 

[tbenak]

Charlie,
Thanks for the picture and all. I think I have all the parts.

 

[dtanner]

JB Evans
I have seen the rod bolts work loose. some you just can retorque them a they will last awile , no garantee lol. But you could have the crank turned and get a .10 over conec t rod and use it. Just depends on $$. Your call

 

[dfrisk]

JB Evans - It's tough to say what all could be wrong with your engine, but a broken conn rod is a very likely possibility. Without removing & disassembling the engine and inspecting parts it's tough to say exactly what should be required. Could be a balance gear has come loose from it's shaft and is keeping the engine from turning also.

I've heard of a couple people just replacing the rod with O-K results but most people rebuild them with new rod, piston/rings, exh. valve, bore the cylinder over size which requires an over size piston & rings. Lots of times the crankshaft rod journal is worn so requires grinding under size which also requires a different size rod. Then there's the possibility the cylinder & crankshaft have already been machined. Pistons/rings are available in +.010", +.020", and +.030" so three rebuilds. Crankshafts are only avail. in -.010", so only one rework.

I've rebuilt quite a few of these old K-series Kohler engines. Normally a rebuild costs between $250 and $350 for parts and machining, and I hear around $500-$600 if you hire disassembly & assembly done. They're not hard to take apart, not many special tools required except to remove the flywheel, it's held onto a tapered shaft and a harmonic balancer puller is required to get them off. You can rent those at most auto parts stores for "Almost Free".

 

[jbevans]

Thank you everyone for your input. Not sure when I will get around to it since I am finishing up painting my 149 hood and rear fenders. Trying to get it done for winter so I can try my new snow plow! Got to get my carburator adjusted correctly first tho.

JB

 

[dtanner]

JB Evans

I have found that the factory settings for the carb ( idle 2 1/2 x 2 turns H ) usuall get me moving. Then I set the carb under load and I like a little rich..Set the carb with the snow blade on a hot engine for idle to wot and it will make the world of a difference in how they work. I have seen the light . Denny says it better

 

[jbevans]

Thanks Don T. I am just having trouble with the engine rev'ing very high when I give it full throttle. It idles fine but someone mentioned I may have a vacuum leak.

JB

 

[dtanner]

JB Evans

Go to the faq and do some light reading on govenor adjustment . Do this first and work your way through all the steps and be happy. Here http://cubfaq.com/questions.html , I think 22 is what you need to do first. btdt now happy .

 

[jbevans]

Thanks Don! I will try that!

JB

 

[dfrisk]

JB - A vacuum leak should effect your idle more than wide open RPM. The governor adjustment where you adjust the governor arm position on the governor shaft is VERY important, the levers below where the throttle cable & spring ends go not so much IMHO, but there's a little "L" shaped tab under one of the bolts on the one pivot that has to be adjusted correctly.

You almost need some sort of tach to adjust the max. no load RPM, 3800 +/- is what you need so the full load RPM is at 3600. Don, Charlie, & I have photo-electronic tachs that are well worth the money.

 

[jbevans]

Great, thanks Dennis! Hopefully in the next few days I can adjust the governor and then I will update you all how it went. I am looking forward to fixing this problem and getting this ready to plow some snow!

 

[dtanner]

JB Evans

Dennis is correct and always on the right path. Best I could do is show you how my 149 lol is connected. Kraig has better pictures.

Works great for me.