Archive through November 19, 2016

[ldweaver]

Alright, first of all big thank-you to Charlie for all the help with this electronic stuff. Ok starting from the top,first 2 pictures are the tractor when I got it. 3rd picture is the old k301 that I took out, 4th picture is the Identification number on the new to me k321,5th picture shows the exhaust valve stuck in the open position which is the reason it didn't run,6th picture is the engine mounts I welded in for the new engine. This k321 came out of a narrow frame 147 so I had to retro fit it into the 1450. I put a video on YouTube of it running but I don't have the ulr so just type in (Ih Cub Cadet 1450 engine swap) and watch the 47sec video if you wish to. I still have a fair bit of work to do on it but it runs and drives now. I'm hoping to mount a plow on it soon as we already have snow on the ground up here in western NY. Thanks again to everyone for all the replies and help.

 

[jwiggins]

Levi's 1450 video
Hey Levi is that a Decal (sticker) on steering wheel or is that an original textured tin,?

 

[ldweaver]

Jason-It appears to be tin,it's a little thicker than aluminum foil

 

[jharvey]

Jason
I buy a tin or aluminum for sale sign at the hardware store and stick the paper decal to it. Then cut it to size and attach to the steering wheel with double sided tape. Cheap and easy!

 

[dgregg]

Jason I have had trouble with breaking the pin on my 149 on snow duty. Last winter I modified a later style link from a 1650 to work on my 149. They are designed to have a bolt thru the end and clamp onto the lift lever rather than pin on.

this is to compare the original 149 one with the 1650 one.
I then heated up the 1650 one and flattened the curves out of it.

Then I cut it to length and drilled a new hole.

A bolt goes thru the left end of the 1650 one and clamps it too the lift lever shaft. works great and as bonus it gives you adjustability as to where the lever is by just clamping.
Worked great for me.

 

[jwiggins]

David G,

Very Nice,

A Bolt clamps link to Lift Handle, (No Pin) Easy to instal and/or remove, also adjustable for ergonomic comfort!!!
I Like it!!!

You know, now that I think about it,,,
Charlie mentioned using a "spirol instead of roll"

I guess the roll/slotted pin doesn't have the strength of a spirol,
Maybe if spirol pins were used to begin w/ neither of our "Links" would have required any modifying, butchering, or reworking at all,

Regardless, either way, your setup is way better now,

Jerry H,

Hey I was digging around in archives and seems like I remember someone using that method for the steering wheel decal also. I think they mentioned velcro instead of double sided tape though, either way I like that better than mine which is just the actual Decal which hasn't been removed from the vinyl backing. I cut the decal without peeling it from backing and used a thin dab of silicone to hold it in place,,,,

Although I could actually still peel the decal from the backing and "upgrade" to an actual tin backing like you mentioned...

Or my best case scenario would be for Levi to just mail his to me!!!

 

[dgregg]

Jason
Mine had a roll pin in it the first time it broke. It also had been drilled out to a little larger than original. I then used the correct size for the hole spiral pin in it and that broke a couple of years later. took out the 3rd pin and then did the conversion.
CC must have recognized this as a problem because they did change over to the champ on style. I took mine off of a parts 1650 that I have.

 

[jwiggins]

David

My Link is on atleast the 2nd Pin as of now.
If I have any further trouble I will definitely go for the 1650 Clamp Link like you have. Thanks for the heads up,,,,,

 

[aewald]

Jason - I was gonna say if you had access to a lathe you could have remade the linkage part and not worry about drilling a new hole.

 

[jwiggins]