Thanks for the info Wayne.
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Archive through November 18, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Ray,
Make sure the clutch pressure plates are not stuck to the clutch, a common problem with Originals. If the clutch gets wet, the plates will rust and stick to the clutch.
With the engine NOT RUNNING, lock the clutch pedal down and see if the plates are free or if they are sruck to the clutch. If they are stuck, you can "pop"/pry them loose using a common screwdriver between the plates and clutch. The real fix is to remove the clutch assembly and clean up/true up the plates and make sure the drive shaft is not worn where the clutch pulley rides. It will help to always lock the clutch pedal down when the tractor is not in use.
Make sure the clutch pressure plates are not stuck to the clutch, a common problem with Originals. If the clutch gets wet, the plates will rust and stick to the clutch.
With the engine NOT RUNNING, lock the clutch pedal down and see if the plates are free or if they are sruck to the clutch. If they are stuck, you can "pop"/pry them loose using a common screwdriver between the plates and clutch. The real fix is to remove the clutch assembly and clean up/true up the plates and make sure the drive shaft is not worn where the clutch pulley rides. It will help to always lock the clutch pedal down when the tractor is not in use.
PAUL, CHARLIE - I had the 123, blade & cart when I was a kid, since We had the 70 to mow with. I robbed the tires off another little tractor, it was green and had dorky round fenders.... Made dual for the 123 with the tires and a couple rubber bands.
Can you mount a qa36 snow blower on a n/f ?
mfeste
Member
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- May 14, 2006
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- 15
- displayname
- Mike Feste
Thank you Scott & Allen for the help.
I tried spraying carb cleaner in it as I throttled up, it got the rpms to come up but it still runs like crap when it gets there, it misses and surges. When starting it seems like the timing is off it starts hard and compresses gas out the carb when trying to start. As far as the carb it is like when the accelorator pump is out on a 2-bbl it has a hard time coming off idle.
Thank you
Mike
I tried spraying carb cleaner in it as I throttled up, it got the rpms to come up but it still runs like crap when it gets there, it misses and surges. When starting it seems like the timing is off it starts hard and compresses gas out the carb when trying to start. As far as the carb it is like when the accelorator pump is out on a 2-bbl it has a hard time coming off idle.
Thank you
Mike
mfeste
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- May 14, 2006
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- displayname
- Mike Feste
I rebuilt the carb about a month ago to try and fix the promblem I did a couple hour soak on it and blew everything out with compressed air and carb cleaner. It runs the same as it did before the rebuild. I set the carb to the manual setting and have adjusted from there. There is some throttle shaft play but it doesn't seem excessive. I rebuilt the carb on my 682 a year ago and it works great. Do the compression reliefs, or governor ever give problems on these motors?
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
Terry,
It was more like a sleet, I asked a guy that was walking by and he said they got a small sleet the night before.
It was more like a sleet, I asked a guy that was walking by and he said they got a small sleet the night before.
Paul Bell ,Ray Leo
The clutch on my 61 Original does grind the gears some times. I usually just make the clutch slip going up a hill to clear that up. I had the clutch stick so bad a screw drive was the only way to break it free,but it would still grind when shifting.I think rust on the clutch plates is the cause and for me just riding the clutch some clears it up for that time. It does come back because the O does not get much use.I had trued a set of clutch disk for my O for next year.
The clutch on my 61 Original does grind the gears some times. I usually just make the clutch slip going up a hill to clear that up. I had the clutch stick so bad a screw drive was the only way to break it free,but it would still grind when shifting.I think rust on the clutch plates is the cause and for me just riding the clutch some clears it up for that time. It does come back because the O does not get much use.I had trued a set of clutch disk for my O for next year.
My 1200 has a black engine w/ a yellow starter, I beleive. Didn't have time to take the side panels off to check today, but I did notice this seemingly random bracket- it just has one screw holding it in
I'm sure someone knows what it's purpose is
I'm sure someone knows what it's purpose is
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Clark-
If the starter is yellow, somebody painted it. That bracket is for lifting the engine out of the tractor, and if you look at it, you'll notice that you're missing one capscrew and one nut that also holds it on.
If the starter is yellow, somebody painted it. That bracket is for lifting the engine out of the tractor, and if you look at it, you'll notice that you're missing one capscrew and one nut that also holds it on.
Thank You to all the members who advised me on removing the clutch on my 129, and replacing the clutch buttons. The disassembly and replacement was a "piece of cake." I didn't remove the bearing from behind the clutch but I did release the eccentric collar (curiosity made me do it). The clutch spring fingers were not damaged by the worn buttons so i didn't need to rebuild the clutch. So, thanks again.
stanner
Well-known member
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- Oct 2, 2002
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- 1,349
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Mike,
IMHO, to truly clean a carb is to remove the welsh plugs, too. I run thin wire through all passages along with dental pick or whatever...
Your last post suggests an intake valve sealing issue, hence the need for a compression test. That may yield skewed results, since the kohler has ACR... It could be your ACR is not releasing all of the way....
IMHO, to truly clean a carb is to remove the welsh plugs, too. I run thin wire through all passages along with dental pick or whatever...
Your last post suggests an intake valve sealing issue, hence the need for a compression test. That may yield skewed results, since the kohler has ACR... It could be your ACR is not releasing all of the way....
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- Home of the Plow Special
Ray-
If the thoughts that were already mentioned don't fix your grinding gears, check to make sure the locking collar on the forward end of the clutch-shaft is locked and not allowing the shaft to slide rearward as someone applies pressure to the clutch/brake pedal. There should be NO forward/rearward movement of the clutch-shaft when you press the pedal.
Been there, done that.......ground gears to prove it.
If the thoughts that were already mentioned don't fix your grinding gears, check to make sure the locking collar on the forward end of the clutch-shaft is locked and not allowing the shaft to slide rearward as someone applies pressure to the clutch/brake pedal. There should be NO forward/rearward movement of the clutch-shaft when you press the pedal.
Been there, done that.......ground gears to prove it.
