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Archive through November 15, 2011
- Thread starter ajohnston
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Tristan-
For a gear drive it really should be there. If it isn't, the rag joint will take up part of your clutch travel. If the driveshaft doesn't have the indentation from a center drill in it, someone with a lathe could add it in about 5 seconds.
I'm surprised the creeper doesn't have it, as it would have been necessary for machining the shaft in the first place.
For a gear drive it really should be there. If it isn't, the rag joint will take up part of your clutch travel. If the driveshaft doesn't have the indentation from a center drill in it, someone with a lathe could add it in about 5 seconds.
I'm surprised the creeper doesn't have it, as it would have been necessary for machining the shaft in the first place.
Speaking of IH memorabilia, here are pics of some that I have collected over the years. Fun to look at. I still have some in boxes that need to be displayed, but not sure what I am going to do at this time. Any ideas?
William you still have about 10 minutes to fix that post. In the line with your name, to the far right is a tablet. thats how you edit a post. Just go in and hit return after each picture. They will line up vertically and not be so wide.
Nice collection! I really like the Spirit of 76 cub. That's the one that I need to finish my collection. The cool things is though, that most of mine are still in the box. William, have you ever went to the National Farm Toy Show? Also here is a pick of my Cub Cadet 682. I also have the real one. I also picked up one of the John Deere Patio Sets and John Deere 140 precision set.
Brian H.
They vary depending on when they were made.
I've 3 NOS rods from 31 3/4" to 32 1/2" for NF's.
32 1/2" outside to outside always seem to work for me.
It would be about 28" for WF's.
They vary depending on when they were made.
I've 3 NOS rods from 31 3/4" to 32 1/2" for NF's.
32 1/2" outside to outside always seem to work for me.
It would be about 28" for WF's.
Brian,
I don't know how long it is supposed to be, but I discussed how I intend to measure and fabricate one. Someone said they thought it should be about 29". Too short limits the "height" at which the thrower can be lowered, too long and it limits how far you can lift the thrower. I plan to make a rod that will allow me to lower the thrower about 1.5" below the horizontal.
As far a the rod dragging on the axle, the pictures in the owner's manual show the lift rod being very close to the axle. But if you shorten your rod it should help. When the thrower is in the lowered position, the electric lift bracket will be farther forward which should change the angle of the rod and make it a little higher from the axle. When the thrower is in the raised position the attach point on the thrower will have raised up to clear the axle.
This information is guaranteed to be worth the price paid.
I don't know how long it is supposed to be, but I discussed how I intend to measure and fabricate one. Someone said they thought it should be about 29". Too short limits the "height" at which the thrower can be lowered, too long and it limits how far you can lift the thrower. I plan to make a rod that will allow me to lower the thrower about 1.5" below the horizontal.
As far a the rod dragging on the axle, the pictures in the owner's manual show the lift rod being very close to the axle. But if you shorten your rod it should help. When the thrower is in the lowered position, the electric lift bracket will be farther forward which should change the angle of the rod and make it a little higher from the axle. When the thrower is in the raised position the attach point on the thrower will have raised up to clear the axle.
This information is guaranteed to be worth the price paid.
I tested out the refreshed motor for the 129 yesterday and today. Oddly, the initial adjustment of the points was pretty close to .020 by just dumb luck, and I had to move it very little. She fired right up and smoked like the dickens when I turned the key but it felt strong. I had used STP Oil Treatment as my assembly lube, so I expected the smoke. After getting it to run at about 9:30 last night, I decided to call it a night, but noted the governor needed to be adjusted.
This afternoon I filled the garage up with smoke again and adjusted the governor and carburetor. With the hood and front casting still not in place, I decided to try out things by making a few uphill runs towards the garage from the bottom of the driveway. Although it ran smoothly in the garage with the air cleaner still off, the first test run revealed that the engine was running rich under load with the air filter on, but not really developing full power. Back in the garage, the smoke had cleared, and I installed a fresh filter and made another run. When I shoved the Hydro lever forward with the engine at 3/4 speed, I was greeted with the satisfying sound of the 10.5 wide inch rear tires spitting gravel while the front end jumped up about an inch or two. No more tests until I get the hood and front casting back on for ballast. Once the QA-42A is on, I won't have the problem of it wanting to do wheelies any more.
This afternoon I filled the garage up with smoke again and adjusted the governor and carburetor. With the hood and front casting still not in place, I decided to try out things by making a few uphill runs towards the garage from the bottom of the driveway. Although it ran smoothly in the garage with the air cleaner still off, the first test run revealed that the engine was running rich under load with the air filter on, but not really developing full power. Back in the garage, the smoke had cleared, and I installed a fresh filter and made another run. When I shoved the Hydro lever forward with the engine at 3/4 speed, I was greeted with the satisfying sound of the 10.5 wide inch rear tires spitting gravel while the front end jumped up about an inch or two. No more tests until I get the hood and front casting back on for ballast. Once the QA-42A is on, I won't have the problem of it wanting to do wheelies any more.
Rick - Yeah, it was pretty much a total loss. Another reason I just went ahead and got the whole pre assembled mwsc kit. If I can just get the thing installed... first time I've ever messed with a clutch before.
Matt G- I see, so the ball bearing supports the assembly horizontally. I hope the rounded ends arent needed though, like I said above I bought the whole clutch preassembled, dont think thats going to fit in a lathe easily.
Matt G- I see, so the ball bearing supports the assembly horizontally. I hope the rounded ends arent needed though, like I said above I bought the whole clutch preassembled, dont think thats going to fit in a lathe easily.
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Aug 4, 2006
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
PSA....
Since it's time to put the snow blade and/or thrower on your Cub Cadets...and the ever important IH Windbreaker Cab if you have one, my recent discovery is very timely.
I needed to mount some plant layout plans on a wall at work and went down to the local Jeffery Alan's store for some 24x36 poster frames. It struck me as I was working with the frames that the thin plexi-glass in these frames is a perfect material for Windbreaker windshields. With prices on the frames I was using ranging from $13-$30 this a cheap and readily available source of windshield material. A plastic cutting tip on your soldering iron should be all that is needed to transform one of these frames into a nice windshield.
Since the windshield on our 656 windbreaker broke last winter, I may be trying this out 1st hand very soon....but either way, it's a good source for materials if you need a replacement!
Since it's time to put the snow blade and/or thrower on your Cub Cadets...and the ever important IH Windbreaker Cab if you have one, my recent discovery is very timely.
I needed to mount some plant layout plans on a wall at work and went down to the local Jeffery Alan's store for some 24x36 poster frames. It struck me as I was working with the frames that the thin plexi-glass in these frames is a perfect material for Windbreaker windshields. With prices on the frames I was using ranging from $13-$30 this a cheap and readily available source of windshield material. A plastic cutting tip on your soldering iron should be all that is needed to transform one of these frames into a nice windshield.
Since the windshield on our 656 windbreaker broke last winter, I may be trying this out 1st hand very soon....but either way, it's a good source for materials if you need a replacement!
