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Archive through November 14, 2010
- Thread starter jlarsen
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Allen,
This is helpful. I have a few further probing questions. My tractor is a 1450 so it does not have the starter/generator setup. But continuing with your same line of thought--where do you think I should look for the bad ground at this point? Where is the regulator located on my 1450? Thanks for the continual help-- hopefully we will get to the bottom of the trouble.
Thanks,
Chad
This is helpful. I have a few further probing questions. My tractor is a 1450 so it does not have the starter/generator setup. But continuing with your same line of thought--where do you think I should look for the bad ground at this point? Where is the regulator located on my 1450? Thanks for the continual help-- hopefully we will get to the bottom of the trouble.
Thanks,
Chad
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Chad-
Is the ground strap from the engine to the frame still there and good? (Right front corner of engine to grille casting bolt)
Is the ground strap from the engine to the frame still there and good? (Right front corner of engine to grille casting bolt)
Art,
Denny F. pretty much blows that everyday
and since Little Donnie Tanner started his off topic blower crap a while back. We've been letting this slide more than usual.
Life's to short to be an ass all the time ya know.
Denny F. pretty much blows that everyday
Life's to short to be an ass all the time ya know.
Matt,
Given that I have not noticed anything of that sort present, I am not thinking that it is. Do you have a picture or diagram of the part you are talking about. I know that I have engine mount trouble as most quietlines have at one time or another.
Thanks,
Chad
Given that I have not noticed anything of that sort present, I am not thinking that it is. Do you have a picture or diagram of the part you are talking about. I know that I have engine mount trouble as most quietlines have at one time or another.
Thanks,
Chad
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Chad-
I probably don't have a picture. I can look later tonight, but I had a crappy camera back when I had a 1450 and 1650, which means I didn't take as many pictures. If you take off the right side panel and there is no ground cable going from the engine to one of the grille casting mounting bolts, I'm fairly sure it's gone. It would be simple to make, as it's just an 8" or so piece of 6 or 8 gauge wire with a couple of ends on it. It should be obvious if it's there or not, as it isn't a small wire.
I probably don't have a picture. I can look later tonight, but I had a crappy camera back when I had a 1450 and 1650, which means I didn't take as many pictures. If you take off the right side panel and there is no ground cable going from the engine to one of the grille casting mounting bolts, I'm fairly sure it's gone. It would be simple to make, as it's just an 8" or so piece of 6 or 8 gauge wire with a couple of ends on it. It should be obvious if it's there or not, as it isn't a small wire.
About the worn key slots in the cranks... Ive fixed two baddly worn like this.. At machine shop he places carbon sticks i\4" into slot turns it and spray welds. The crank gets built back to proper dia after turning and slot is perfect again as carbon stick is removed. 50.00 is worth it for me they are like new.Has anyone heard of this fix?
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Chad M. I didn't mean to sound so harse on you only I knew it was in no way the hydro. That is why I said to check the electric pto wires to get you started in the correct direction.
And one for Frank C. before I go to work.
And one for Frank C. before I go to work.
ART - I do like that neon sign!
CHARLIE - Keeping this forum LIVELY is a tough job but somebody has to do it! Ohhh and YES, I got your e-mail... next time warn me in the subject! ;-)
WAYNE - Company I used to work for did a LOT of spray welding, or at least recommended it for rework or repair to parts with little dimensional problems. Of all the methods of repair it had the fewest drawbacks. It would probably work good to resize the rod throw on a Kohler crank back to OEM size if it was already .010" U/S and worn.
The crank in my K321 that had the worn keyway was brazed before and still badly worn. That's why it was replaced.
CHARLIE - Keeping this forum LIVELY is a tough job but somebody has to do it! Ohhh and YES, I got your e-mail... next time warn me in the subject! ;-)
WAYNE - Company I used to work for did a LOT of spray welding, or at least recommended it for rework or repair to parts with little dimensional problems. Of all the methods of repair it had the fewest drawbacks. It would probably work good to resize the rod throw on a Kohler crank back to OEM size if it was already .010" U/S and worn.
The crank in my K321 that had the worn keyway was brazed before and still badly worn. That's why it was replaced.
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