Archive through November 09, 2012

[mgonitzke]

Charlie, I'm glad to see my loader isn't the only one that still marks its territory after being cleaned up and painted

 

[hydroharry]

Earl - the thrower shouldn't turn and I don't think the disc would really need to wear in. I'd suggest putting just a little more pressure on the thrust button (maybe 1/4 turn on the turn buckle) and see it the clutch stops rotating.

 

[rmccallum]

I just purchased CUB CADET 122 it is in great condition. i put a snow blade on it that came with it. but i am not sure if it is the right blade. i have it mounted on a ROD in back that holds the foot rest on both sides, in the front it is mounted with a 1/2 ROD that goes from one side to the other on the bottom . it also pivots near that point. about 3 inches from there, there is a bracket to which i made a long arm to go to the lift arm of the mower deck to lower an raise the blade it will raise it but it VERY VERY VERY HEAVY, i am wondering if i move the bracket toward the blade more if it would be a little easier to move it away from the pivot point more toward the center? THANKS FOR ANY HELP I HAVE 3 CUB CADETS A 122- 72- 104

 

[lhinds]

I hope everyone has a nice Veterans day.

 

[nbextermueller]

Richard,

Others will chime in I hope, but sounds like you have the proper blade. Yes, they are heavy. Moving that lift point won't gain you much.
What you need it a spring assist for the lift handle. That will make lifting any impliment easier. (mower deck, blade, thrower, and anything you hang off a future sleeve hitch on the back.)

Post over in the classified/wanted section and maybe you can score a deal. But they tend to be a few more $ the you'd expect based on simple supply and demand.

 

[dfrisk]

EARL - Yes, the new friction disks for the PTO and engine clutches on CC's are a little "FUZZY" when new and take some use to bed in. But follow Harry's suggestion, tighten the turnbuckle a bit more and it should stop. Too bad you don't have some snow, I'm sure with a shovel full of snow in the blower the auger would stop.

It's interesting sometimes how parts change over time. Back in the mid to late 1980's, MTD must have tried a different supplier for the PTO clutch disks. They were harder and more brittle. The fluted drive cup on my 72 was worn pretty bad and over the course of 3-4 winters broke two of the friction disks... not just a drive lug or two which the instructions say is fine to use, but broke them in half and then into smaller pieces. MTD must have gone back to the old original IH supplier, because I'm still using the same worn drive cup/pulley and frankly I can't remember HOW OLD the current clutch disk is but it's gotta be close to twenty years, maybe even 25 yrs, like when I replaced the hard brittle disks the last time.

 

[dschwandt]

Thanks Guys for all the input on lift arm length.
I had made a rod for my blade earlier this year that I plan on using on the 1000 just for pushing when there isn't much snow and then using the 1650 w/blower for when there is lots more.
Anyway, the lift arm for the blade, which is just a straight rod w/a clevis welded to each end won't work w/the blower as it is not offset to the ouside enough.
I'm sure I can get something worked out now, sure don't want to lift it too high and slam into the nose thats for sure!

Thanks too all!!
Dave S.

 

[kide]

Thanks to Charlie, a guy named Butch that I never knew and all the other veterans for defending our country. God Bless, and have a peaceful day.

 

[thoffman]

Has anyone mounted a 5.70-8 onto a 16-6.50-8 rim?

 

[kide]

Tom - in all the things I've learned over the years, I've never understood tire sizing for these small tires.... I understand the Rim Size, but what are the other two (normally one would be Tread Width - what is the other - Rim Width??)

 

[jjsmith]

Tom, yes I've done it. It works, not much too it. Recommend using a tube. All depends what look your going for, as they are still plenty tall

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - I think the other dimension is section width, width at the widest point of the sidewall.

TOM - I would think a 5.70X8 would fit O-K on a rim for a 6.50 tire. I agree with Joseph, best to use a tube. I've seen guys on another forum put 3.50 & 4.00X8's on a rim for a 6.50" tire... Now THAT I wouldn't recommend.

Speaking of tire tubes.... the last two tubeless tires I own are getting tubes this winter. The left frt on the 982 developed a slow leak this summer. Leaks from 15 PSI down to around 4 PSI in a month's time, which is about half flat. Come to think of it, I bet my Pronovost tandem dump cart has tubeless tires on it with no tubes. As hard as it slides the tires on concrete when loaded I'm surprised I haven't popped a tire off the bead of the rim yet.... Maybe I better get SIX tubes, they're 18-8.50X8's, same as the frt of the 982.

 

[thoffman]

Thanks guys. I'm thinking of using the 5.70's on a project I'm working on. The 5.70's are 18.1" tall compared to the 16.2" on the 4.80's which is fine with me because I want to use a taller rear tire too. I just HATE the look of the too wide rim for the tire.

 

[aschumacher]

Wayne S. ...Did you look in the 'specialty' drawers in H.D. or L's ? Those places have a separate section of odd ball stuff, springs, hairpin clips etc. <font size="-2">Dont think you have any farm stores or Tractor Supply down your way.</font>

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Allen-

I did check at Lowes but I made the mistake of asking a worker there. They aren't very informed a lot of times. Actually, I don't think they even knew what I was talking about and I have very little patience with that sort of thing. And yes, we do have TSC but I'm not sure of the other. The closest TSC to me is about 45 minutes away.

Good to see you're back up and posting. I hope the storm wasn't too damaging for you and yours. You ought to move to NC like everyone else that use to live up there.

 

[pfunk]

Wayne, you should be able to purchase coupler nuts from McMaster Carr. They have all sizes but you usually have to buy in quantity. I didn't look, but for 1/2" nuts they probably come in pretty small quantities.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, I bought them at Fleet Farm, it's a store kind of like TSC (Tractor Supply Company.) But I have seen them at hardware stores. McMaster-Carr does sell the 1/2-13 couplers individually in several different grades, grade 2 through grade 8 and in various lengths. Here's a link:

Coupling Nuts

 

[lcarter]

Wayne, Lowe's has the coupling nuts in 1/2-13. If your stores are like ours they are in hardware. Ours has a section with non standard hardware in pull out drawers. They may also be in electrical, we used the couplings nuts on a summer job I had where we hung lights down next to a machine from a 20' ceiling.

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Paul, Kraig-

I actually checked with McMaster-Carr and just didn't find them. McMaster-Carr is the best online business I have ever dealt with. What is this grade 2H steel that is real expensive?

I don't mean to be off topic here but they were used on a cub project and that's what I need them for...just not a snow blower/thrower.

Sorry Charlie!

 

[kfreeman]

Wayne,

Here is a link to HD coupling nuts. They are shown as a Simpson Strong Tie item, which may put them with the framing ties and fasteners.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202092467/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=1%2F2%22+nuts&storeId=10051#.UKBKImcrMqc

They also have a listing for a package of 25 ea in the Crown Bolt section, which should be standard hardware.

I searched the HD website for "1/2" coupling nut".

You would think that anyone that sold all-thread rod would have couplers nearby. But, I have to remind myself that HD is not a hardware store, it is a "home improvement center".

Here is a link at McMaster-Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=k4gwiu

You will have to Copy and Paste this link in your browser. For some reason it is not showing as a link.