Archive through November 08, 2003

[sblunier]

Keith,

Let me explain that 3rd paragraph for you......

I traced a digital picture with some fancy-a$$ed computer software to make a cool plow drawing......

 

[sblunier]

Had some fun at the National Toy Show today with the usual toy collector/cub cadet crowd. Even saw John Lang and Ben Johnson standing outside by John's "Shaggin' Wagon"!!!!!

 

[jbliler]

Steve, as to #2 has anyone talked Dan Hoefler into getting his hi-crop 100 into action? This could test one of your problems. I have watched all of the plowday events to see if he would put it or the crauler to work. They might be still too nice to get dirty, don't know.

 

[kehrecke]

Steve B:

Thanks for the explanation. Thems be terms I can be for 'cipherin and gettin' all knowed up on.

Yours truly,
The hilljack

 

[thoffman]

Mark,
Nice write up in the Red Power Magazine!

 

[wcompton]

Steve, Bryan, John, whoever else I missed-
Sorry I didn't meet up with you guys, I got there just as the doors opened and within a half hour it was just packed.

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

Steve B,while I like the notched coulter as a better alternative to the standard Brinly,why not go all the way and add a disc jointer instead? You know,the concave disc that works to help cover the trash even before it gets to the moldboard. They work great in the big plows,although they were never real popular. I sold/demonstrated a few that way back when the canning factories were huge here in WI. They loved them as they could handle more trash than the plows with standard coulters and coverboards. They converted all their own fleet of plows over to disc jointers!! The premixing of soil with the trash just seems to make it flow through without plugging. I think a Brinly disc blade may work well,Travis may even have some notched ones around. That diameter may be just about what you want. At the GT plowing speeds we see at plow day events,I believe the benefits would be quite outstanding!

I really think you are correct about raising the hitchpoint also(the lower attaching point on the tractor) By raising it up somewhat you will improve the line of draft and traction will be improved to a great degree. Us puller guys all hook at 13" hitch height to optimize the tractive benefits. Every little bit lower really decreases the traction very dramaticly(sp?). Higher than that and the tractor is too unstable. The obvious clearance issues would be improved,but the big gain would be the bonus traction we'd gain. Keep us updated please,sounds like you are gonna have a "supa-plow" setup by the next event! I also like your thoughts of added weight to the plow for stability and increased cutting force. I added a 25# weight on my Cat 0 plow at the spring WFM event as you saw,I think it was quite an improvement

 

[jlang]

Steve, You could get more sleeve hitch clearance quite simply. Just go with a taller rear tire and lower front tire. Kind on like on my 317s. It really raised the hitch. The weight bar on the front of my 122 & 140H3 also help clear away the piles of trash out front. I may see if I could put together a concave disc coulter to try. I think it would take more weight to make it work good though.

Nice seeing you guys at the toy show!

 

[tschweizer]

Jim, Steve happens to have the notched coulters that you're referring to ;-)

 

[bjenkinson]

After having gear drives for years, I bought a 169 with the hyd lift. As usual I took it down to the bare frame for sand blasting and paint. I discovered that every piece of the lift was bent or broken. I then bought another 169 for parts. All of the lift parts looked good but when I tore that one down,I found that the arm that attaches the lift cylinder to the rocker shaft was welded to the shaft. The roll pin was sheared and it looked like it may have been easier to weld than it was to replace the roll pin.
My question is,was this a problem with these cubs or did someone set the hyd pressure to high.
It looks like the lift cylinder just pushed things way behond there limits.
I want to build this 169 to replace my 122 as my grass cutter. Is there anything I can do as I rebuilt this thing that would prevent bending up the control arms?
Thanks for any help.

 

[tschweizer]

Here's the Plow Day field as viewed from my balcony!!!

 

[digger]

OK, who missed those 2 strips!!!!!!!!!!

 

[latherton]

Digger, I think the guy that was suppose to finish that blew a head gasket !!

 

[sblunier]

Jim D.

I'm with ya......been talking about the concave coulter idea with dad and Travis for some time now...even have some parts to make one. Around here they were called Yetter coulters, which is what I typed in the original post...sorry for the confusion.

2 problems with it that I can see right from the start....

1) Like John said, not enough weight to make one cut...they pull much harder than a straight coulter would, especially in 1/4 scale.

2) Beam clearance. It will be hard to make the coulter lay over like it should and still keep it out of the beam.

BTW, a pulling hitch and a plow hitch are two different animals. Higher attachment heights are not the answer, just more beam clearance. The actual line of draft should still be below the rear axle height and idealy right thru the lower hitch point. The difference between plowing and pulling is that the plow needs to have the correct balance of downward suck (provided by the bottom) to keep it in the ground and upward pull (provided by the tractor) to keep it running level and transfer tractor weight. In pulling you have virtually unlimited downward force on the "implement", so much so that you can't lift it (at least not past the first few feet of the track) and can hang the whole tractor off of it......do that with a plow and the bottom will just pop out of the ground. We have penetration problems with plows as-is...higher hitch heights would only make that MUCH worse.


The plan for real plow development is as follows:

1) Get 12" bottom parts from Robb (within 2 weeks)
2) mock up furrow/land/etc with 2x6's on edge and some plywood...full width so that clearance can be seen/measured/photoed etc. at various points (hitch/tractor/plow).
3) design
4) test design and line of pull on the mock-up.
5) build
6) test in field
7) obtain desired results
8) Install front bumper on right front tire (to protect it from contact with 12" Brinly 3pt. plows on JD's that won't get out of the way)

....left turn singal for passing may also be an option......

 

[digger]

Larry A,
HAHAHAHAHA!

 

[tschweizer]

And an air horn

 

[fmorski]

Steve:

Isn't the yetter the wavey coulter, not the notched coulter? Maybe I have had the picture wrong in my head all this time.

I didn't start this with my question did I?

 

[jwinter]

I am looking for part #473922R1 bracket assembly for narrow frame. I need 2 thanks

 

[sblunier]

Frank,

Nah, Jim and I were just calling the same thing two differnet names...no big deal.

Yetter currently makes a whole line of trash clearing/cutting equipment, mainly for no-till planters and applicator toolbars. Seems to me we have an aftermarket Yetter concave coulter on our old 2-16" Case trailing plow...it's at least 30 years old.

This plow thing could be a lot of fun......I will definately have a better handle on how they work even if I don't end up doing anything to my plow. I just keep thinking, "There has to be a better way to move trash through one of these things!!!"

(Message edited by sblunier on November 09, 2003)

 

[tschweizer]

I'm just going to put a rake in front to push the crap into the furrow ;-)