Archive through November 07, 2016

[kweaver]

Lipp - It was either that or what your wife said about me ... I still think she needs glasses !

ED - Did you ever get that timing figured out ?

 

[lhinds]

Good to hear from you Kentucky Ken

 

[jgilliam]

My question is concerning the brake style pto on a 128. I have a 129 (Parts Only) with regular front pto without brake. Would I be able to change it over to non brake . I have all the parts on my 129 to do it if possible. 2nd question. Has anyone changed their mechanical pto to an electric like my 1450.. If so How? I'm feed up with the brake style. Runs good for a while, then locks down when disengaging pto . HELP PLEASE

 

[digger]

Jerry G.
Yes you can change it. just remove the brake and install a button in the actuating lever that pushes against the PTO.
You'll also have to change the button on the PTO from the brake style to the regular push style.

The the lever arm is adjusted right and the angle is good, the brake style works just fine and has for 40+ years, LOL

No you can't add a Cub electric PTO, there's no holes to attach it to and no way to drill and tap the block.
It's been tried and it failed.

 

[stanner]

Jerry,
I grafted an electric on my 149, although it wasn't a Cub clutch, but a Warner from another application. I had to fab us a spacer and use a long bolt, as the CC engine's snout is short. it works good, I used a relay and the original PTO safety switch to interlock it and turn it on. As far as the PITA factor, a good performing mechanical clutch is less of a headache. I used this as it was free and it seemed like a good idea at the time... LOL

bracket keeps the clutch from rotating. OEM uses a few links of chain

 

[eford]

Or you change out the engine from a quiet line. Seems like too much work for me.

 

[jgilliam]

Thanks Charlie. My fater-in-law bought this on thru IH as he worked at the Memphis Plant until he retired several yrs ago. I did not realize it would be that simple. You say you only have to change the button on the pto and of course remove the brake and change the push button on the lever bar. Almost sounds to easy. I have those parts.
THANKS

Scott: looks like you did a good job with your electric clutch.

Thank you both

 

[rrschmitt]

Jerry G,

I think you will have to swap out the brake style engagement arm with the button style engagement arm. The brake style arm does not have a flat surface for the button to set on.

 

[kide]

Catching up on my reading, ran across this from a few days ago......
"Melissa - Smoke coming out your breather should mean you got a blown headgasket on the inside. Sorta of a easy fix, make sure you torque to specs and follow the bolt pattern."

Uh,no.... lets correct this before somebody takes this for gospel - there are no internal passages from the top to the bottom of the jug that would allow compression to leak internally to the crankcase on a K-Series engine. It's a flathead with air cooling, so there are no coolant passages, no pushrod (or cam chain) passages. If you've got blowby in the crankcase, look to worn rings, piston or cylinder bore (or all 3)..


Harry - you didn't catch this?

 

[dschwandt]

NF Stainless driveshaft? pros/cons?
Any real reason to go this route other than the rust resistance?

 

[jstorma]

David,

I wouldn't bother with a stainless drive shaft. Your just throwing away your money.

 

[jgilliam]

Thanks Ron. I have the whole set up to do what it takes,

 

[wcompton]

David-
Coming from someone who specifies stainless every day; I would NOT use a stainless shaft, even a good 316/316F shaft. Vibration & torque from the engine will be the demise of the sections where the holes for the coiled spring pins reside, and second actually drilling those holes accurately will be difficult because of the hardness of the material (unless you're using high end bits from Walter's and a heavy drill press or mill, you'll go through a couple bits). Too much chromium and nickel and too little carbon to make it work compared to a good solid 4130 shaft.

 

[jwiggins]

Correct, I wouldn't attempt stainless w/ a hand drill, but proper tooling will drill/cut ss like butter,,,
The roll pin holes in nf shaft would "probably" as Wyatt stated negate any advantage....
On wf though use 316L w/ tempered B7 coupler and tee bar welded on power side equals no roll pins,

 

[kshultz]

Dang, that weld looks good!

 

[jwiggins]

 

[dblom]

Hello all, quick question about an IH Cadet 60 RER. I think this is the right place to ask, if not I apologize. I am working on a Cadet 60 that was given to me, the two rectifiers for the starting system are missing. Will this effect the starting? Does anyone carry replacements? I get turnover but no spark. Electric start. I am not a mechanic. I did look at FAQ and Charlies Cub FAQ but didn't find anything. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[wcompton]

Geez Jason, nice. All I did in my 782 was pirate the shaft, "barrels" and couplings out of a 2186 to get rid of all my coiled spring pin woes.

Works well so far as compared to the stock rag joints EXCEPT the length has to be 100% spot-on. Too much length and you'll bind up the couplings on each end, too little length and the frame twist will cause the shaft to pull out of the couplings. Otherwise it's about the smoothest driveline outside of a gear drive.

 

[jwiggins]

My thought was to keep rag to avoid any binding and/or microscopic tolerance issues,

 

[dblom]

Thanks Charlie for the link to the thread on the Cadet 60.