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Archive through November 07, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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dfrisk

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Nov 12, 2001
Messages
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Dennis Frisk
DAVE S. - The little cork gasket between the hydro unit & CC rearend is the source of about 99% of the Hydro leaks. Richard C. is doing long-term durability testing on a Neopreme replacement. CHARLIE - How about some more pic's of Your Brinley aerator? Please?
Started on the leaves yesterday with the home-made trac-vac. Just a bit wet from the rain Saturday but I managed to get four loads by dark. I suspect there's 25, maybe 30-35 more left. I broke the yard up in sections is all, theres still leaves on over half the trees.
 
KRAIG - I bet that green thing peeking out of Charlie's shed has a Cat. O 3-point. Looks like a 140.
 
The deck on my 149 has 3 same sized blades. The deck on my Dad's 104 (which may soon be mine as well) has 1 large center blade and 2 smaller blades to either side. In my opinion the deck on the 104 gives a better cut than the deck on the 149. Is that the prevailing consensus? Will all decks fit all tractors or does the undercarriage need to be changed to accomodate the deck.
 
Chuck J. -

Consensus? Are ya nuts? Here??
 
Bryan, I beg to differ. :eek:)

Chuck, it all depends on how well setup the mower deck is. If the deck is bent at all it won't cut good. Also if the blades are not level as Richard C. pointed out last week the deck will not cut well. Richard and Steve B. have both posted quite a bit over the last several years about setting decks up. Steve has some of his posts in the FAQ
 
Kohler engine question. I have a K301 out of a 1250 wide frame that runs good but the key way is ruined on the crankshaft(looks like someone put wrong size key in and it wallowed out). I have a K301 torn down out of my 124 that I am rebuilding and now I have found out it will need to be bored out way to much to be usable (.060 over). Will the head off of the 1250 motor K301 work on the 124 K301. I know the motors will not swap directly if it was possible because of the bigger flywheel but will the parts interchange. Thanks, Tim Ham
 
Thanks, Kraig. Guess I know what I will be doing this evening. It's still up in the 70's here in North Alabama so maybe it wont be to cool out in the shop tonight ..........some of the northern guys will laugh at that I guess.
 
Tim, it's in the 60's here in Wisconsin. I think the difference between the K301 block in a 1250 and the one in a 124 is the 1250 has the mounting points for an electric PTO clutch and it has the small electric start motor. I think you should be able to use the flywheel from the K301 in the 124 on the one from the 1250 and mount it in the 124 provided it has the mounting holes for the starter generator bracket. Of course, I could be wrong. :eek:)
 
Kraig, I am not sure on this but I think I described it wrong to you. I think what I will need to do is use the short block assembly from the newer K301 if it is interchangeable. So I guess what I am saying is what will I need to change out to make this work? Will the crank be the headache I think it is going to be or is there something I am missing here. The cylinder head is not removable from the main engine block if I am looking at this right. So I will be changing out the flywheel and crankshaft but they should be ok to use on the newer K301. Does that sound about right to you?
 
Tim, they use the same crankshaft and AFAIK you can swap the flywheel from the 124 block onto the 1250 block. Hopefully someone that has done this swap will jump in here.
 
If all you do is swap heads you'll need some of the tinwork from the QL engine 'cause the spark plug is in a different place on the QL then on the 124's engine.
 
As long as we are talking engines. Is the crankshaft out of a k241 different than the crankshaft out of a k301? I think it is (the engines have different stroke lengths) but before I discard the idea I thought I would ask.
-Bri
 
NEED 126 SLEEVE HITCH INFO--Can someone give me the measurement, hole center to hole center, for the link that goes from the lift lever to the sleeve hitch. I need to fab one to finish my sleeve hitch installation. Thanks
 
Jerry M,
According to my tape measure, 24 and 1/8" .
-Bri

(Message edited by balbrecht on November 07, 2005)
 
The winter in MN gets dark pretty early, so I want to put some safety lights on - either LEDs or bulbs. I put in a new wiring harness and it appears the battery is now getting charge and it starts good. So my electrics should be in good shape. I'd like to wire the lights so when ignition is on the lights are on and when the ignition off the lights are off.
From looking at this:

<font color="ff0000">we try not to link back and forth...</font>

Could I just put a tap on the IGN to run the lights? Would I need a relay? Should I just use a separate switch and hope I don't leave the lights on? So how do I wire in lights without messing it up?


(As for the broken Wheelhorse, don't send in a Wheelhorse to do a Cub's job! ;P
 
I just tried to start my 129 last night and discovered the gas had gone bad. It has been sitting for about a month. This is the 4th small engine I have had the gas problem with this year. Is the formulation different? Have others had this problem? Thanks
 
Chris B:

You don't mention it, but I assume you are talking about a CC 125. You also don't mention, if you already have lights on your Cub.

There are a number of ways to wire up lights. With your perferences in mind, you can use the Dark Blue wire off the IGN terminal from your Ignition Switch. See the following Schematic:
32158.jpg


If you are installing additional auxillary lights, they would wire up the same.
 

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