Archive through November 07, 2005

[tschweizer]

Charlie wanted me to post that his ISP is down. If anyone wants to rip on him, now is the time

 

[jmuncie]

Thanks for the sleeve hitch info, Brian.

On another note...Just had someone offer me a 1720 with bagger and bad deck for $50. Before I drive to look at it, is there anything potentially useful on this tractor. I'm assuming the hydrostat is not the same as the IH built Cub Cadets. Looking at pictures of 1720s, I'm actually wondering if the engine is vertical shaft. Is that the case?

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[cjackson]

Bryan M.

Consensus?? yeah what was I thinking. But assuming both style decks are set up well does one cut better than the other.

And secondly are decks interchangeable NF to WF?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jerry, the 1720 is a LAWN tractor not a GARDEN tractor, it uses a verticle shaft 17hp Kohler. It is a hydrostatic but it is completely different from a CC garden tractor.

 

[bmcmeen]

Travis -

Like we need his ISP down to do that

Chuck J. -

It's still a matter of opinion. Yes, properly tuning each deck per the FAQ and recent posts will make each deck work at their optimum.

However...

What you'll accept as a "perfect cut" will be different than what I'll accept. So it's VERY subjective.

And then there's the retired folks that have time to measure each blade of grass

Sorry Richard!!!

Kraig/Jerry -

Man, those things are a PITA to work on!!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chuck, either of the decks you referred to in your earlier post, if set up properly will do a great job of cutting. I believe some of the decks can be interchanged between NF and WF but the proper subframe must be used, kind of a mix and match thing and I don't know if there is an easy way to describe which subframe is needed.

 

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

Of COURSE there's an easy way to describe the subframes!

CPE-2!!!!!

 

[ndorn]

Where is a good place to get my 782D parts. I am restoring one, and need to get MANY parts. I have tried contacting CC Specialties, but they dont answer back. I am looking for a lot of the little things like the glow plug coil that goes in the dash, a wiring harness, all that stuff. Thanks for any help you can give me.
I so far have the frame sandblasted and repainted. All black parts have been blasted and pwder coated. It looks GREAT and I am REALLY anxious to finish it. The past owned chopped the wiring harness apart, so I need a new one. I havent even heard this run yet. Isnt that silly. It turns by hand so I know it isnt sized up.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, OK, I'll give ya that. But I meant me writing in text trying to describe each of the subframes. )

 

[sblunier]

David G.

For what little Stabil costs, I just add it to each 5 gallon can before I go back to the gas station to fill it......cheap insurance against the deadly carb gunk fits......

FWIW, MMO also can help to prevent gas from breaking down.

I just "mix up a batch" of additives/can before each tank fill.

 

[sblunier]

Mower Decks,

I prefer the 44" and 50" styles only due to the availability of Gator blades.......

I will stand out on a limb and say that early CI ended 42" decks (tuned correctly) are a thing to behold, as are 44A/C 44" stamped/drawn decks. I don't care for the stamped end 38/42" decks due to their strange runners, weak end plates, and weak gauge wheel mounting and I dislike 48" decks even more for the same reasons. The only decks "stiff enough" to withstand daily use and not loose a tune IMHO are the CI ended 38/42 and the 44".

......OK you guys, STAND UP......BE COUNTED!!!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, I like both of my early stamped end 42" decks. By "early" I mean they have the round runners and standard gauge wheels not the half round runners and optional gauge wheels of the later versions. I have a 48" stamped end deck but I have not yet used it as it needs some repair work first, the baffle is partially missing.

Under edit: Does this make me #1?

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on November 08, 2005)

 

[dgallagher]

I agree with Steve on the 44" decks. I have used a 48" for many years and was very satisfyed with it, until I got a 149 this year with a 44. I spent an afternoon adjusting per Steves FAQ and it cuts to perfection. I also have a 42 on a 129 that I use around the shrubs and trees, but it clogs up so bad, I don't use it a lot. The 48 cuts well, but I have to weld it up about twice a year. I have really used the 44 this year and no sign of any problem.

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

I don't care for either version of the stamped end runners....mainly because they catch grass clippings on the discharge side and plug up. The gauge wheels are OK, as long as you hang the deck and don't let ride on the wheels, otherwise both the welded and bolt on styles get bent way too easy when supporting the deck's weight.

 

[wheinsohn]

I used a 48" for years and I think they did a much better job than the stamped 42". Yes, thier downfall was the RH gauge wheel would crack and break off. I have not used a 44" but have a few 50" that I have used for the past few years. The 50" does a very good job if cutting in straight line but can leave a strip when turning left when the blade overlap line is in line with the tire tracks. A 50" does not make an even cut between passes without the front gauge wheels added. I could not believe the difference those front wheels make in keeping one pass the same heighth as the last. And I agree with Steve, nothing makes a deck cut better than Gator blades. I mainly switched to the 50" deck for time savings. I was cutting about 2 acres at the time and it cut my time from over 2.5 hours to around 2 hours.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE - I "FIXED" all your complaints on My stamped end 38" deck. Dad has a 42" at home in the barn I'd like to do the same modifications to but I don't need it. The discharge chute was enlarged as big as I could make it, runners were LONG gone before I got the deck, baffle was replaced with a taller one, gauge wheels front and back, left end radiused to improve airflow and allow close trimming, blade tip comes within 1/4" of the housing. Also I added a lip inside the leading edge about an inch wide at the bottom edge to create a channel for clippings to flow out of the deck. It throws grass almost as good as the 44" deck on the 129 now. Plus the steel is MUCH heavier on the stamped end decks. They never fatigue and crack. With the wide gauge wheels on the front corners, and the rear ones in the center back it's almost impossible to scalp anywhere. And it does mow level as long as the grass is dry. Those tiny 10" long blades just don't make any suction to lift damp grass. Plus I can still buy cheap spindle bearings & seals. With the step up ratio from the center to the outer blades it does pull harder than it should.

 

[thoffman]

That

'n Charlie!

 

[tcbusch]

Chris,
You don't want the lights to be on when you are cranking the engine over. The small batteries don't have much power or life. If you want to have the lights on with the ignition you will want to install a relay to interrupt the power to the lights. Take ignition switch starter wire and use it to power a small relay. Route the light power wire through a set of the normally closed contacts on the relay. This way when cranking the engine the relay turns on and the lights turn off.

 

[rchristensen]

Steve B.
I had a mechanic I really trust tell me to run MMO in the summer but not to leave it in the tank if it is going to stand for a long time, like over winter. I have followed his advice for years and stop putting it in the tanks of the tractors I don't use in the winter. Then again you guys probably use your tractors more in the winter than I do.

 

[dbellamy]

Can someone explain the diff between a Cast deck & stamped deck ? I have 2 38 in decks one has an "A" I believe they are both quick attatch
TIA Don