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Archive through November 06, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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mdiamond

Active member
Joined
Sep 12, 2005
Messages
44
displayname
Matt Diamond
No Ryan they definately don't make anything like they used to. Im going to grab a couple of the champions Im think im going to go with the champions that Bryan is running just to see if they last. Its getting old throwing away new plugs. Thanks
 
I use NGK plugs. I've also tried those E3 plugs, with no difference in performance. If all else fails, I fall back to the champion plugs.
 
NIC - You didn't fall for that hog wash hype on the E3 plugs!
facepalm.gif
 
As far as spark plugs go...

Some days around my place...it's whatever will make the darn Cub run!
 
I still have the original Champion in my 8 hp. Pull it and clean it, check the gap and set it back in. Still works fine.
 
I've had a couple bad plugs lately too....one NKG, one Champ, and a 216........"They just don't make things like they used to" certainly applies here!!!!! I watched the NGK fail in the Kaw....idled down and jumped off to close the gate before mowing the back yard...it started missing at idle, then dropped a cylinder. After swappign plugs side for side (and getting nailed by the coil once checking for spark) I determined it was not the coil packs, but the plug (looked fine). A quick trip to the local lawn mower shop and I had a handful of CJ-8's to prevent the issue from happening again!!!!

For luck, I am pretty good about stocking up on things, so I have a whole stack of CJ-8's (Kawasaki twin), and Autolite 26's/Champ RY-17C for the Kohler Mags.......
 
I wish it was as simple as plugs when they won't go. My 149 and 2B tiller is throwing the long belt so I went after the 109 and 1A to do my fall plowing. I haven't used it since July so wasn't too surprised when it wouldn't turn over. All I could get was a click or two. I changed the battery and the same thing. I cleaned the terminals to a shine and same thing. Sometimes I turn the S/G pulley by hand to get off the compression stroke but this time it wouldn't budge. There was an iron fence post handy so I put it against the basket pulley and moved it an inch or two. Then tried cranking again and it started right up like it had been running yesterday. ????
 
Amazing, I've been getting a miss at half and full throttle and also thought it might be the spark plug. I was wrong... It was the fuel filter. Its next to impossible to figure these small engines out. I just go through a process of elimination, fuel, spark, and last mechanical.
 
Best, and arguably the simplest, fuel delivery test out there is to pull the choke out (some)....if it helps, it's fuel related.
 
Kraig, two years and two days ago you posted pictures of shims for your snow thrower, on end of the drive shaft with the sprocket and chain. Did you make them or buy them? If you bought them, where did you get them? Thanks!
 
Kevin, I believe I just used washers but referred to them as shims. If they are actual "shims" I most likely bought them at the local ACE Hardware store that has a great selection of hardware. Thank you for finding that post. This topic came up a few weeks back I thought I may have posted photos but didn't have time to go looking at that time.

LINK to the Photos of the QA42 chain tensioner / drive shaft shims

Photos are way at the bottom of the linked page.
 
Thanks Kraig! Tomorrow is snow thrower maintenance day!
 
Snow blade question,

I have a 42" IH Hydro Angle blade. It is a later model blade, is has the large IH man on the tractor logo, not the smaller IH logo with International Harvester below it.... anyway. I just bought this blade late this spring, so this is the first time I have installed it. I have noticed a small leak from the wiper/seal on the moving end of the cylinder. Can this wiper/seal be replaced, or would a complete rebuild of the cylinder be necessary? Looked at the parts look-up and it only lists the entire cylinder. The leak isn't bad, and I have no idea how long its been since this blade was actually attached to a tractor with front outlets. The person I got it from (along with the 1650) didn't have a tractor with ports. So it has been a few years since its had pressure. I can live with it, it doesn't leak all that bad, but would like to fix it if its not too difficult.
 
scott, on your hydraulic cylinder question, just check yellow pages for a hydraulic supply/repair shop in greenfield and have them look at it, unless you want to really keep it ih stock and do it yourself. my $.02
 
Doug,

I have a Brinley rear scraper that came in the package deal I bought in January. I got the scraper, #2 tiller, wheel weights, a 3 point lift and a basket case 1450. The three point didn't have the lower bracket. This week I bought a bracket to mount the scraper for some landscape work I am doing on my property. I have a friend who brought his big Ford tractor with a Gannon scraper. It's doing most of the work. I'll use the Cub to get in areas he can't. I'll ask my wife to take some pictures and post them when we get back to scraping.

I am looking for a WF front blade but they are rare as hen's teeth on the west coast, especially California. I guess with no snow there was no reason to buy one. It would come in handy for moving dirt and mulch.

It's good to see another west coast CC. I am a transplant from Illinois and enjoy a little slice of my Midwest upbringing every time I get on one of my Cub Cadets.
 
Bob E. I bought Brinley back blade from Home depot right after I bought my 106/loader - about 15 years ago. I found that it wasn't built heavy enough to really dig in. I also lowered the ripper teeth and that helped some. I wish I had kept it though,now I could use it. The irony is I traded it for the front blade for the ot tractor
 
Have owned my Cub Cadet Mod. 1641 w/ 16 hp B&S engine, Hydrostatic transmission, and 46" three blade mower deck since 1992. It's still in show room condition, but now the battery light comes on when the PTO is activated for the mower deck.

The battery light goes out as soon as the mower deck is turned off.

Is this a battery problem or is there some other issue causing the battery light to turn on?
 
Virg M.
Did ya miss this part above?
Use this topic only for discussion about IH Garden Tractors and Equipment built prior to 1981.
 
What is needed to be done to install a wide frame front plow onto a 106 narrow frame. Any input will be welcome.
 
Dale,

You will need a NF subframe, and lift arm bracket. The NF subframe will somewhat be determined by the NF model, quick attach vs bolt on. The lift rod you have may need to be shortened or lengthened. There are manuals on this forum with pictures.

Jim
 

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