• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through November 05, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hey guys, I need help with a belt for my deck. Is there a plce where i can cross reference my deck's serial number witht he belt I need. It's the PTO to ceneter deck spindle for those of you playing at home.
 
Does anyone have the directions to make the rust stripper using a batery charger? I forget what its called.
 
Hugh,
When I got my 1650 the previous owner handed me a box of torn up parts that used to be the pto clutch.
The coil and mounting bracket were fine, but the armature (the part with the 1/2" sheeve on it) was destroyed.


I started looking around at my options and found that there are a few clutches that use a 5/8" sheeve on the
armature that would fit for replacement. I don't remember the tractor models now, and I came up with a different
solution due to the cost of a replacement clutch.


I have an armature from a 782 that is in need of a new bearing. I plan to replace the 1 1/8" bearing that is
seized up with a bearing that will fit the 1" shaft on the 1650.

I already have a spare mule drive from a 782 and the proper pulleys for my tiller and snow thrower
draw.gif

so I'll be able to use the same implements on my 782 and 1650 with only minor adjustments.


I haven't gone into the bearing supply store to get the replacement bearing since the tractor is still torn down for a referb,
but I'll post pics and part numbers when I get that far.
 
Matt D:
Search for " Electrolysis" ...
 
Matt D..

see this link for a forum I put together to house link to places like that...
Here is the electrolysis... I have done that on my 149, works great.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/501575/thread/1170712395/last-1170712395/Rust+Removal+Links

Here are some pics:
tank, rebar or bedframe angles for electodes
96592.jpg

parts after:
96593.jpg

96594.jpg


Are you from High Falls by Wanakeena? If so, My son went to Ranger School there, and I have hiked the loop...beautiful country...
 
Where is that Charlie Digger lol. He send me an email about a 782D for sale and he knows that i need 1 Here in Nova Scotia Canada. So just go ahead and buy it for me . Later Don T
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Scott:

Yes - I am close to you if you are in Corning - Painted Post area. I do not know if I dare say that I knew Erine .... :}

My wife bought my first 70 somewhere on 5th ST in Corning. It did not mow well - so I checked the blades - perfectly sharp but on backwards!!! After several years the 7hp really got bad - so I ordered a factory 7hp block from Sawyers in Big Flats - I got the very last one that was in stock in the warehouse!! This block lasted about 8 years now - but a valve is sticking or a spring is broke - starts fine and starts to smoke bad once warmed up. Guess I should have the origional rebuilt.

2nd 70 I bought from northern NY (north of Geneva outlets) off e-bay for $125 incomplete. Needed a starter/generator, steering tower bolted together and major tune up - and now does all the mowing and runs better than the other one ever thought of running. Deck was rough but with a spare deck bought from Stevens, PA and new spindle assy's from Addison Farm equip (now out of business since they could not meet cub min inventory $ amounts on a yearly basis) I put together two good 38" decks.
 
Denny
The frame is 6" channel iron. The front axle appears to be homemade also, and is welded to a section of channel, that also appears to be 6", that then pivots on this large steel pin between the front and rear of the cross member. The engine is bolted to mounts welded to the bottom of the channel. A lot of the welds are only tack welds, and were never finished. The left steering arm broke off the spindle as the tractor was moved/loaded/unloaded, and had been attached by one tack weld.
96596.jpg

96597.jpg
 
Hi all:
I'm new to this forum & looking for ideas. I had a 124 given to me, the engine runs but not very well, smokes badly & no power. I really dont want to rebuild the engine and am thinking about repowering it with a new Briggs or Tecumseh. The thing is that the rotation will be wrong on the engine drive since the original engine drove the tranny off of the front of the engine. I am thinking of a jackshaft configuration. Any ideas?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top