Archive through November 04, 2011

[dfrisk]

TRISTAN - Your question, "Your making me wonder about the GD... with 14hp, bigger tires, and hauling a lot of weight over rough ground, is this going to be too much for the stock tranny / rear end?"

If you break a GD CC you're doing something you should NOT be doing.

I've described the convoys of trash carts they pulled around IH manufacturing plants here before. They used GD CC's at first because that's all IH made. I supposed before CC's they used Cubs & Cub LoBoys, but that was before my time. They used Hydro CC's because they withstood the constant starting of heavy loads better than the little dry clutches did for five 8-hour days a week all year long. Plus we all know about replacing clutchs in NF GD's takes a while. Took me about two hours when I replaced my T/O bearing last summer.

The only problems I see in your setup is with the RED spring, clutch pedal effort will be through the roof, and the Q/L 3-pin driver is prone to cracking stock.

 

[mgonitzke]

Daniel C.-

Try this for timing your engine. It's faster and more foolproof than playing with the timing while the engine is running.

 

[gpapa]

Does anyone know if you can use a CC42 snow thrower on a 147? If so, are there any modifications needed? I think the QA series snow throwers were made for the later model narrow frames, so I'm wondering if the CC42 will bolt right on. Thanks, Greg

 

[jstorma]

Got some new deck wheels this weekend. I see there is a lubrication point. Is this designed for a grease gun or a snorkel tube from a spray can?

 

[jcabral]

Well I did it this time. I just had this engine bored 10 over with a new piston. I am posting pictures of the crank damage. I did the assembly on this motor, I did one before and it works fine.
My questions are what options I have for repairs. I could not find the original lock washers for the piston rod so I used a couple of brass lock washers the same size, I am wondering if they heated up and expanded increasing the torque on the rod bolts. Is the oil hole on the bottom of the rod in the right position?
I did this using information online and engine manuals for other Kohlar engines, I will now get a manual for this engine. Can I save this engine without spending a ton of money? Thanks.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/jrc2905/091.jpg
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy26/jrc2905/090.jpg

 

[aduignan]

 

[thoffman]

How about placing the add in the classified section?

 

[dcmay]

Installed the eng back in the 1450 and it still missed.I set the timing as Matt suggested and the S is in the very center of the hole in the shroud.Points set @ .019.Still missed.
I have another 1450 that is a perfect runner and switched coil,carb,PTOsw,ign sw and measured .43 valve lift on both valves.Still missing.I guess I have eliminated about everything I can think of for the 10th time.Maybe a valve is sticking.I'll check that tomorrow.

 

[digger]

If it were me, I'd check the points push rod. Just a thought.

 

[dcmay]

John,
I think you had the rod in backward.The eng runs clockwise looking from the rear and the hole should be on the left side of the crank and as it comes around it forces oil in the hole every rev.

 

[mgonitzke]

Daniel-

No...the oil hole goes towards the cam, which is the way he has it.

 

[rbeem]

Marlin,

The Cub Cadet Original box came from a closed dealership in Riverside, IA.
(The Fictional Hometown of Star Treks Captain Kirk for all you seeking Iowa trivia)

I'm not sure of the plans for the building. From my understanding the gentleman I got the box from was helping a friend clean it out.

Tristan,
I don't mind the red spring myself. I know alot of people think it's too stiff. I use it with the leaf sweaper and back it up along the street all fall. You may end up having to work out at the gym with your right leg to even things out.

The stock three pin driver should be at a minimum reinforced or ad three more pins to it to distrubute the load better.
As far as the trans goes, you are putting yourself at risk if it let loose with a big load. I know I guy that rode a Cub down a hill and through a fence being pushed by a hay rack. I know what he would say.

 

[thoffman]

Charlie, Now I feel better. Another 1 N done.

 

[dross]

John C, the steel lock washers are there under the brass ones. As far as what to do now, the rod can be turned for a bearing insert.

 

[jcabral]

This is why I should have had a engine manual, there was a steel flat washer with a lock washer on top from what I could see from the online pictures. I have always worked with steel rods and bearings, maybe I do not understand how critical an aluminum rod is to install.

 

[tstewart]

Dennis, Rick, I don't plan on pulling my cub or anything like that, but dragging logs uphill might be in my future. However for my log skidder project I plan on using a hydro. And that might be well more than a year into the future as I'll probably do a frame off resto and well I have a lot of other things to do and I'm also pretty slow. In the mean time I wont big skidding but pulling a cart full of rounds through the woods. Since traction is the limiting factor I am going to design the cart to place as much weight on the back axle, so my concern with how tough the transaxle is was based off a lot of weight on it on rough ground. I know on smooth ground I already pull my heavy 6x10 loaded with wood without too much problem at all. Here is my 129 pulling what, maybe 2000-2500#?
http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/IMG_0132_800.jpg
Pulling is easy I am more concerned with hitting ruts and stuff and breaking something.

I didnt know that about the stock 3-pin drivers... I thought in discussion in the past it was said they are plenty good enough. Now I kind of wish I'd got the whole deal. I havent even started on it yet, so its not too late to order more parts before the big day. What do you all think?

Red spring... well it was the lightest they had? the other was was more #. And it has a split collar so it can be set to whatever tension I want right? I'm not sure how to do it though, I assume I need some kind of spring compresser. I'll just try it where its at first I think. If need be I'll go back to stock though, I dont mind it being a little stiff but dont want it to make my leg sore. I am a long distance runner though, so hopefully my calfs are tough enough!

As far as it letting loose with a heavy load on a hill, yeah want to avoid that one. I havent figured out how yet, but I want to put dual brake pedals on the right side for independant clutch/brake control and steering. Wish Aaron lived closer!

 

[dtanner]

Tristan Stewart
I think that is way to much trailer for a Cub loaded with wood. But if you were to add electric brakes on that trailer I think that would work. just a switch to turn the brakes on would stop the trailer and the Cub with a load of wood. I put electric brakes on my Cub hauler trailer for $200.00 . I guess it depends on what you want to spend for safety .

Charlie
I `am voting on the points push rod also. I have see a few that were worn down and had to change them after the point stetting kept changing. The Cub humming is what I like.

 

[dtanner]

Jim Storma

hard to tell in the picture ! but you can buy a needle point for your grease gun . Just push the needle tip in the hole and fill with grease. I`am not sure that is the type of fitting you have there , but some grease using a needle point won`t hurt.

 

[aduignan]

Sorry new to the cub forum trying to figure out parts availability for the old ones

 

[tstewart]

Donald,

That trailer is only used for around the house on smooth ground, and does it with ease. I would never take that into the woods, I dont think there is any way the cub could pull that trailer in the woods. The trailer I am talking about building will be more on the lines of 3.5'x5' or something like that, and a whole lot less than 1400# empty, but around that maybe loaded.

I do plan on upgrading that trailer with a bigger axle and brakes so I can haul more and safer, but its cost prohibitive right now. It would be just as cheap to buy another used one I think if I can find one for a good deal.