Archive through November 03, 2014

[drglinski]

Josh

Dad still has his 125. The tiller is now at my house, as I use it more than Dad does. Dad just uses the 125 for mowing and really nothing else. He also has a CCC (Red) International 782 that he got about 15 years ago.

 

[dlbarnett]

Ah....hydros and wheelies. I took my future wife to her first tractor show down in brooks or. back in 2005. I was getting ready to load the 149 into the truck on Monday. I thought I'd show off a bit and started popping wheelies about the third one I stood that sucker waaaayyyyyy up. I hit the brake and it came slamming back to earth. Both front tires were pointed in different direction, I snapped the front axle on touch down. She gasped and then started laughing her butt off at me. Luckily for me there was one other guy still camped out who helped me get the broken 149 up the ramps into the truck. He said that was the best wheelie he'd ever seen a garden tractor do.

 

[jgoodine]

Thank you Steve, I will see if I can find any around, check them out,

 

[jstertz]

Doug---not to laugh at you misfortune but...

. That is a funny mental picture. Too bad a camera wasn't rolling, min pretty sure you could've won some money on America's funniest videos!!!!

 

[tcbusch]

The 126 was a little problematic this last weekend. The battery was very weak so I tested the S/G. I removed the field wire and the belt. I spun the starter up and shorted the F to ground and I had no speed change. Last winter I replaced the S/G with another one I had as a spare because the bearings were dry in the one that came with the cub. I decided to take the armature and ends caps out of the one and switch it with the other hoping to make one good out of two bad. Still a no go, no speed change. Both field coils are fried. I dug a little deeper and found another S/G from a doner cub from many years ago. (thank you charlie). The S/G works but still no charger so I also replaced the regulator. It seams I have a lot of spare parts but I am not sure which ones are good or bad. I think I need a better system.

After getting the S/G all taken care of I headed to my brothers place to plow up his 2/3 acre garden. About 1/2 way through plowing the hard ground the motor started banging around. Turns out the motor bolts are loose. I headed back to the shed and they are ALL stripped. I wondered who would have stripped a cast iron oil pan? Did they use a breaker bar? Last night I swapped the oil pan with a doner 14hp bad crank engine. Turns out the 126 had an aluminum oil pan. Aluminum oil pan on a cast iron engine? What the hell sense does that make?

Anyways, I am heading back this afternoon. Hopefully I will finish plowing without any more issues.

 

[kostendorf]

Terry, it seems IH went to aluminum oil pans to save money and did not even change the part no. on them. I had a similar problem with my 1650. The PO let the rubber mounts go bad and wore all the pads off the oil pan. I tried fixing it then found a cast iron one off a 126!!! I also swapped The aluminum nose for a cast iron one.

 

[jbaker]

Since I only have wide frames, I think mine are all alluiminam

 

[snicklas]

I think the early wideframes are cast iron, and the later ones are cast aluminum. It may have been around the time they went from painting the engines yellow vs. leaving them black. All the cast iron ones I have seen are yellow. I know on my 1450 when I got it, I had the same problem as Keith. My ISO mounts were TOAST, and all the pan bolts were loose, and if I remember correctly, there may have been a couple missing. My pan had an angle worn into one side of the pan from the rails that on the edge was at least 1/4 below the level of the rest of the pan. I bought a replacement pan, that was cast iron, which was painted yellow. I did the mod to the rails to add the cross brace and replaced the ISO mounts. Put it all back together and it has been tight for several years.

 

[jstorma]

The best thing you can do with those aluminum oil pans is drill out the mounting holes and install a thread locking helicoil.

When I purchased my 1650 the engine was seized. After removing the engine I found the two bolts on the right side were missing and had wore down the mounting pads which then lead into wearing down the side of the oil pan. It evenualy cracked in that area and the oil leaked out enough that when the previous owner was cutting the side of the hill it finally seized the rod and crank bearing together. After purchasing a better pan and consulting with my machinist on my fix, he told me the helicoils was the best thing to do. I also did the cradle upgrade, used thread locker and split lock washers on the mounting bolts. I don’t think they will come loose again.

 

[aaytay]

Here's a picture for Jeff...

 

[elincoln]

Went over to Moses Lake,WA today to pickup a rear wheel for a I-H A and also spotted a set of 35# weights. I bought them for $70. He also has a least another 5 sets of 35# weights, they are still bolted on I-H cub front wheels.

 

[dfrisk]

ED - The IH CC rear wheel weights, same as the CUB FARMALL front wheel weights are only 26 pounds each. They may seem like more when trying to install them and not chip up fresh paint.

At Plow Day #1 I saw IH FARMALL H & M front wheel weights used on CC rear wheels for the first time. They're 42# each... and also pretty rare. Been around FARMALL tractors all my life and back when people were using them to farm I can't remember a single tractor with front wheel weights.

 

[dlbarnett]

Can someone tell me if the dozer blade from a 70 will fit on 123.

 

[snicklas]

Doug,

I believe it will. The undercarriage bolts on to both of those models. Unbolt from one, and should bolt up to the other. The Original had a different undercarriage and lift mechanism. The 70 - 147 are all narrowframes and use the same undercarriage and lift (including the "lift bar" that bolts to the lift arm). The later narrow frames are the quick attach style and use the pins on some undercarriages. The wideframes use a different undercarriage. One thing to keep in mind, the blade itself and the triangular mount that goes back to the undercarriage is the same across the board from the 70 thru the end of IH, and even into the CCC models. It was even used on the mount that would connect to the little fiberglass rear engine riders. So once you have a blade, you can use it on just about anything, as long as you have the correct undercarriage and lift rod from the lift arm to the blade. There is a difference in the arm on the blade the lift rod connects to, but I am not sure how critical it is. The one you are supposed to use on the 82 series is different than the one for the wideframes, but I have used the same blade and rod on a 149 and a 782.

Since you have everything from a narrowframe, it should just transfer over.

 

[dlbarnett]

Thanks Scott. I thought that would be the case. I had one for a wide frame I never used and sold it off a couple years ago to pay for other cub stuff. I'm sure I could've made it work for the 123 that I recently bought.

 

[nbextermueller]

Scott, that the first I have heard that an 82 series has a different lift rod and/or blade than a standard wide frame. I have swapped my 42" blade between my 782 and 128 with no noticable difference in attachment or function.

 

[kfreeman]

Nic,

IIRC, the 82 is supposed to use a 5/8" lift rod, and the earlier models used a 1/2" lift rod. That doesn't mean you can't get the 1/2" rod to work on a 782. I have both but I don't know if the rods are the same length.

Also, for the 782 (probably any hydraulic lift) there needs to be a "float" function for pushing snow. The bracket between the lift rod and the triangular blade support has a slot to allow this "float". There is a blockoff piece that can be bolted over the slot to allow for some downforce. So, yes, the bracket and the rod are supposed to be different for the 782.

 

[sblunier]

782 used 1/2" lift rod, just like all the others (dont confuse PTO belt size with lift rod size).

Make sure the rock shaft float isn't rusted solid and all will be well with any wide frame blade on a 782. If it is rusted, then the blade with float bracket will be necessary (also true for manual lift tractors if you don't want to use the float lock on the lever)

 

[bkattner]

There is a difference between the 5/8" and 1/2" lift rods although it isn't much, I'm thinking maybe 1 inch. The 5/8" rod is used with the slotted lift bracket as mentioned earlier.

 

[nbextermueller]

I have a 1/2" lift rod and no float bracket on the plow. Just a plate with a hole. I'm pretty sure my spirol pin in my lift mechanism I sheared and I use up the "float" space upon lift cause i only have about 1.5-2" of lift range. Either that or it's rusted solid. Cause my "float mechanism" is that flimsy 1/2" rod curving out (ie. bending) when I push the plow up a drift.

I know, bad practice... But it's not broke yet.