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- Jim Storma
What type of paint is the CaseIH paint? Oil based enamel? Are there specific hardeners for it?
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Archive through November 01, 2018
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sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Treat it like oil based acrylic enamel.
I use "Super Wet Look" acrylic enamel gloss hardner in it with the appropriate speed acrylic enamel reducer for the painting temp when I shoot it and have good results.
I use "Super Wet Look" acrylic enamel gloss hardner in it with the appropriate speed acrylic enamel reducer for the painting temp when I shoot it and have good results.
lkortkamp
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- Larry
Well, I brought my parts home from the machine shop today. I have some pics, but need to get them downloaded and hosted before I can get them put here.
They did balance the rotating assembly. Apparently it wasn't too far off. They only took 7 grams off the rod side of the crank. Basically meaning if I had mounted the Kirk weight just a few thousands more outward of the crank centerline it might have been near perfect. Who woulda known? The shop used information from online about weight percentage on balancing. Seems 50-60% is common. They made it 50%.
So, since I didn't get a bill I guess I've been a good customer for the last 30 yrs and they just worked it through among all the real motors. Many thanks to them.
Hopefully I get some time Tuesday evening to work on it? Might have to wait til next weekend? Kinda curious to see how it goes, since it is my first one.
They did balance the rotating assembly. Apparently it wasn't too far off. They only took 7 grams off the rod side of the crank. Basically meaning if I had mounted the Kirk weight just a few thousands more outward of the crank centerline it might have been near perfect. Who woulda known? The shop used information from online about weight percentage on balancing. Seems 50-60% is common. They made it 50%.
So, since I didn't get a bill I guess I've been a good customer for the last 30 yrs and they just worked it through among all the real motors. Many thanks to them.
Hopefully I get some time Tuesday evening to work on it? Might have to wait til next weekend? Kinda curious to see how it goes, since it is my first one.
glippert
Well-known member
There are probably several other threads I could put this, but everyone who turns nuts & bolts on an old Cub Cadet has to deal with them being rusted tight, so I opted for the main forum on this slow Saturday night.
PB Blaster seems to be favorite (I use it myself). And Kroil is pricey, but has a good reputation. I've also seen references to Liquid Wrench and others, as well as "home-brews" like ATF & Acetone. That's why this guy's youtube video caught my eye. Thought I'd share it, in case anyone else wonders which product is best for removing rusted nuts/bolts. I found it interesting, although "your results may vary."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs
PB Blaster seems to be favorite (I use it myself). And Kroil is pricey, but has a good reputation. I've also seen references to Liquid Wrench and others, as well as "home-brews" like ATF & Acetone. That's why this guy's youtube video caught my eye. Thought I'd share it, in case anyone else wonders which product is best for removing rusted nuts/bolts. I found it interesting, although "your results may vary."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs
glippert
Well-known member
Oh oh! Looks like I broke it....
balbrecht
Well-known member
Got things mostly ready for winter yesterday. Oil changes, fuel stabilizer/gas tanks filled, decks scrape down, chains on the winter portion of the fleet, dug out the battery tenders.... Snowing today.
The 122 mowed great for a day or two and then the deck just slowed right down where the belt barely moved. Adjusted the turnbuckle, belt tightener, etc. No movement at all. I have all the right belts. Replaced the fiber button with a brass button. Cleaned as much of the melted fiber button off the thrust button on the PTO as I could. Still wouldn't move the mower belt. So I took the set screws out and took the PTO off. You'll see the thrust button is all cleaned out...it was full of hardened fiber button material. Could that be what was making the PTO stick? Also, you can see the spring is worn in the middle. Not sure if the bend in it is proper (too much or too little) I'm gonna go ahead and order a replacement PTO with tool from Charlie and keep this PTO for extra parts if I ever need them. You guys think my diagnosis is correct?
Don, that triangle shaped spring is shot. It can no longer put pressure on the friction plate. No wonder the deck won't spin. It appears that you may have tightened the turnbuckle so much that it was pressing on the button so hard that it pushed the spring into the crank end. Which wore into the spring and caused it to loose it's "springyness" if that's a word. You will need to get a rebuild kit. EDIT: Charlie might have the parts available separately but I don't think he has that style of spring available separately.
Brian, good looking line up. I count seven Cubs.
Is the 127 with the hood open the same tractor as in your profile photo? How about a photo of the off topic tractor that has it's rear tire just in the far right edge of the photo?
Don, were there the same length of thread sticking out the back side on all 3 of the adjusting screws when you removed the ass'y
If not, the clutch was way out of adjustment as well which might have led to it's demise.
When you rebuild it, make sure the screws are adjusted evenly all the way around and the correct tool/guide is used correctly to do so. Charlies kits come with an instruction sheet. No reason you cannot rehab that unit.
Good Luck!
If not, the clutch was way out of adjustment as well which might have led to it's demise.
When you rebuild it, make sure the screws are adjusted evenly all the way around and the correct tool/guide is used correctly to do so. Charlies kits come with an instruction sheet. No reason you cannot rehab that unit.
Good Luck!
Thanks Dave. Yes, the threads were all even with the adjustment nuts. Looks like I fried the spring. I do think the thrust button being caked with melted/hardened fiber may have caused a problem too. I ordered the rebuild kit and will use the tool that comes with it. The order won't process until next week but that gives me time to clean the pulley and throw out levers real good, maybe prime/paint the pulley while I'm at it until the shipment arrives.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Kraig nailed it below...
"It appears that you may have tightened the turnbuckle so much that it was pressing on the button so hard that it pushed the spring into the crank end. Which wore into the spring and caused it to loose it's "springyness" if that's a word."
Rebuild, and tighten just enough to get clutch to slip and then a little more, the button does not need to move 3/4" of an inch........once it touches, 1/4" will be plenty
"It appears that you may have tightened the turnbuckle so much that it was pressing on the button so hard that it pushed the spring into the crank end. Which wore into the spring and caused it to loose it's "springyness" if that's a word."
Rebuild, and tighten just enough to get clutch to slip and then a little more, the button does not need to move 3/4" of an inch........once it touches, 1/4" will be plenty
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Hold your horses here all you commenting Cub Cadeters (hehaw - if that's a couple words).
On Don McPhee's PTO clutch issue I'm gonna dis-agree with Kraig and Steve (gotten so I like doing that).
I think the spring failed (lost its springyness if that's a word) which is why Don adjusted the turn buckle - and then kept adjusting the turnbuckle to get more pressure on the PTO clutch to get it to work - to the point the fiber button was always against steel button (instead of leaving a gap per the manual) which resulted in the fiber button melting.
What I'm saying here is I think the initial problem was the spring failed. Don adjusted the turnbuckle believing this may fix the problem which just resulted in the fiber button melting and very likely caused the entire PTO to get really hot AND I think caused the grease to melt right out of the PTO bearing. If you look at Don't pic of the basket pulley it looks like the bottom half is just covered by grease. Where else could this come from except that bearing. And the fiber disc looks like it's all greased up to which could cause it to get soft and fail in the future.
Since the PTO got that hot who knows what else could now be wrong with it. Don initially stated he was going to order a replacement PTO. That would be my recommendation. That way everything is like new. The pressure plates are all machined and trued up. He gets a new spring and metal button and a new fiber disc as well.
I also recommend a new PTO bearing. It may rotate fine when he spins it, and it may not seem loose, but if the grease all melted out it won't last.
So, Don you may have to send an urgent e-mail to Charlie and try to get your order changed if you decide to go with my recommendation. I see the complete PTO is 3+ times the price of the rebuild kit but it should give you piece of mind that it won't fail again for a long time. I strongly encourage you to get the replacement bearing as well. You can probably just get the one withOUT the locking collar since you should be able to re-use your current collar.
Now, I don't often recommend a complete replacement versus rebuilding but you are presenting a situation where I do.
Let's here it now from the other Cub Cadeters. That's Kraig and Steve and anyone else who wants to pipe in. David you commented on the screw adjustments but you could comment on my recommendations. Lets here it from everyone with an opinion that wants to let us know.
On Don McPhee's PTO clutch issue I'm gonna dis-agree with Kraig and Steve (gotten so I like doing that).
I think the spring failed (lost its springyness if that's a word) which is why Don adjusted the turn buckle - and then kept adjusting the turnbuckle to get more pressure on the PTO clutch to get it to work - to the point the fiber button was always against steel button (instead of leaving a gap per the manual) which resulted in the fiber button melting.
What I'm saying here is I think the initial problem was the spring failed. Don adjusted the turnbuckle believing this may fix the problem which just resulted in the fiber button melting and very likely caused the entire PTO to get really hot AND I think caused the grease to melt right out of the PTO bearing. If you look at Don't pic of the basket pulley it looks like the bottom half is just covered by grease. Where else could this come from except that bearing. And the fiber disc looks like it's all greased up to which could cause it to get soft and fail in the future.
Since the PTO got that hot who knows what else could now be wrong with it. Don initially stated he was going to order a replacement PTO. That would be my recommendation. That way everything is like new. The pressure plates are all machined and trued up. He gets a new spring and metal button and a new fiber disc as well.
I also recommend a new PTO bearing. It may rotate fine when he spins it, and it may not seem loose, but if the grease all melted out it won't last.
So, Don you may have to send an urgent e-mail to Charlie and try to get your order changed if you decide to go with my recommendation. I see the complete PTO is 3+ times the price of the rebuild kit but it should give you piece of mind that it won't fail again for a long time. I strongly encourage you to get the replacement bearing as well. You can probably just get the one withOUT the locking collar since you should be able to re-use your current collar.
Now, I don't often recommend a complete replacement versus rebuilding but you are presenting a situation where I do.
Let's here it now from the other Cub Cadeters. That's Kraig and Steve and anyone else who wants to pipe in. David you commented on the screw adjustments but you could comment on my recommendations. Lets here it from everyone with an opinion that wants to let us know.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I have seen it many times before where someone adjusts air gap between button and PTO to a manual specified distance, "over disengages" it with exactly those results.
No fault of owner, they just don't all need a lot of disengagement travel.
Deglaze surfaces and rebuild....no harm, no foul. Charlie's PTO rebuilds are top notch, but he can rebuild his own too.
No fault of owner, they just don't all need a lot of disengagement travel.
Deglaze surfaces and rebuild....no harm, no foul. Charlie's PTO rebuilds are top notch, but he can rebuild his own too.
Don, quick question for you. Were you pulling back on the PTO lever to engage it or pushing it forward? The reason that I ask is that if the PTO was worn out and not engaging when you pushed forward on the lever and you were thinking that you had to tighten the lever by shortening the turnbuckle to engage it, it would seem to engage the PTO because the triangle spring would then make contact with the crank end and cause the PTO to turn. This would explain the seeming working of the mower but then slower spinning over time. It would also explain the damage to the PTO triangle spring. If this is the case Harry, Steve and myself would all be correct in our diagnosis.
