Archive through May 31, 2014

[jharvey]

You guys please feel free to be embarrassed. I was taught if it's worth doing it's worth doing RIGHT!

 

[dfrisk]

JERRY - Ummm I'm not embarrased. I've even gone as far as to put the curved portion of the anti-rattle clips INSIDE the PTO basket...and assemble and after mowing 15-20 minutes all three clips were missing. I've tried a couple methods of trying to "tighten" the fit of the basket around the fiber clutch plate, one by pressing the basket inside two halves of a round wood die I made, the other was just twisting slightly the radial sides of the flutes of the basket... that method actually seemed to work better... was an hour before all three anti-rattle clips were MIA.

So yes, feeling Lots and Lots of frustration about what must be a much more worn PTO basket than most have... but NO way embarassed. Whether the clips are installed in the PTO clutch or stored on a shelf high up in my shop makes NO difference in how long the PTO operates. It just makes a tiny bit more noise when not engaged which I bet 50-60% of the operators would not even notice.

 

[jchamberlin]

Well, Dennis, Jerry, Kraig, and Jeff: Looks like I have to remove the Allen screws anyway. It seems that the "knock" in my new 122 isn't coming from the anti-rattle springs, but is emanating from a crank pulley that is loose on the crankshaft. I have to remove the PTO clutch to get to the crank pulley, but my trusty Craftsman Allen keys which I've owned and used for at least twenty (20) years chose this moment to let me down. I'll post more pictures when I get the PTO off, but here is what happened to my Allen key:

(Note: the screw on which the wrench broke is still in the pulley, the third one is wallowed out; so it's off to Sears to get some new Allen keys and a carbide drill bit [or two].)

 

[aschumacher]

Jeremiah, either they break, or get twisted 45*...sometimes ya just can't win !

 

[gprettyman]

Thanks, Allen, for the redirect. I have a 105 Cub Cadet and somehow the release pin in the top of the mower deck handle got lost, causing the rod to drop down, I finally got it out and straightened it , it was almost bent in a half-circle, now I can see why, there is almost no way to put it back in short of cutting the weld. Can any one give me some ideas?

 

[hydroharry]

Gayle P - I don't understand what you're calling the mower deck handle. Are you talking about the lift arm and the button on the top, and the bent L shape at the bottom where it goes into each of the detents?

 

[wslombo]

Hi I just picked up a Hyd lift for my 100 I'm restoring and I'm wondering where exactly do I have to drill the holes on the frame to mount it?

 

[digger]

William S.
I guess the best place to start would be the manuals section.
Then to the Options section.
Then download the NF Hydraulics Installation manual.

 

[wslombo]

I did that Charlie thanks

 

[jchamberlin]

Well, Allen, I got five (5) of the six (6) set screws out, and tightened up the crankshaft pulley of my 122, but when I re-started the engine, it still "knocked" at certain RPMs, while it ran fairly smooth at others. It died at full throttle and seemed to get hot awfully quickly. After I shut it down, I noticed the drive cup at the rear of the engine was loose and "clanking" horribly. So I guess I'll be removing the engine, tighten everything up, reassemble, set the timing and adjust the carburetor before I see where I stand with the knock --but I'm hopeful it isn't the rod.

The five (5) set screws (with silver anti-seize on them).

The crank pulley snugged up when i tightened the set screws, but I think I'll pop it off later for a closer look.

 

[dfrisk]

JEREMIAH - I think while you have that engine out of the tractor, you should pull the oil pan and take a good long look at things inside the engine.

Depending on how much of the "drive cup" was loose, it could be a problem. If it's just the four 1/4"-20 capscrews holding the drive plate to the alum. drive cup it's no big deal, but if the BIG nut under the drive plate is loose, then the whole flywheel could be loose, hopefully the FW is still tight on the taper. If not, I'd be looking for a new engine, or at least a different FW & crankshaft.

 

[jchamberlin]

Dennis: I know the 1/4-20 bolts are loose, I'll check fly wheel retaining nut when I get the engine out of the tractor. I hadn't thought of removing the oil pan, but it's a good idea, thank you for the suggestion.

(You would think the former owner, a diesel mechanic who works on the Osprey aircraft, would do a better job of assembly [grumble, grumble].

)

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - I think you posted one before, and I can't find it in the fancy wiring diagrams, but did you keep a copy of the fancy colored wiring diagram that shows how to wire a 4 terminal Volt Regulator?.

I've got a regulator that's marked F, B, L on the side with the 3 terminals, and the terminal on the back is not marked. My recollection is the L terminal is not used but I don't know if the Gen connector should go no the back separate terminal. Is this a Nolan Ryan special I should toss as far as I can - or can I use this?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, you can use it you just have to connect it accordingly.

 

[jchamberlin]

Dennis: I was wrong about the 1/4-20 bolts, they were tight. The main nut was installed backwards (the rounded edges toward the flywheel and the "bearing surface" toward the clutch), with not one, but two lock washers: a star washer next to the aluminum drive cup with a split ring lock washer on top of it and below the nut. Bottom line, whatever is going on inside the engine, the drive cup is history. The problem seems to have been going on for a while, judging from the (1) wear pattern on the back of the drive cup, (2) wallowed out hole in the drive cup for the alignment peg, (3) the fact the alignment peg itself fell out of the flywheel!

Drive Cup on Flywheel:

"Assembly" of Flywheel to Crank:

I found out why it might be cutting out at high RPM, a rather dirty air filter:

I also noticed that the linkage is a mess:

I also found it curious that the head bolts were BELOW the shroud --what's up with that?

Apologies to viewers, I tried rotating the images, but I was afraid to save them because the files seem to grow in size every time I save them.

 

[sblunier]

Jeremiah,

The throttle linkage "as-is" completely negates the governor operation........it needs the spring and the cable should never be hooked directly to the governor arm...........It will over speed at no load and loose power at full load...it needs to be fixed as a 1st priority IMHO or you will end up with a grenaded Kohler block..... It is very likely the governor gear is broken and that was the only way the PO could regulate speed (which would explain why the governor arm isn't always trying to move the throttle cable)

Any way you look at it, it needs attention and a thorough check, including mechanical governor condition.

 

[sblunier]

BTW, I have always had fairly good luck keeping PTO anti rattle springs in.........who knows why........

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - I don't care what Charlie says about you being an INSTIGATOR - You ARE THE GREATEST.

Now, I assume I leave the L terminal with nothing on it as I had assumed. Some else said I could attach the lights to it, but that just doesn't make sense to me.

 

[tbdavis]

Cub 100 grill question. Stumbled on a NOS grill for a 100 and curious if they were painted white from the factory. This one is not painted but not sure if it should be or not insofar as correctness is concerned. Thanks

 

[jchamberlin]

Steve: Thank you for the insight, I didn't realize the governor spring was missing. The previous owner noted that the engine control was a bit "touchy."

The oil had fine metal flakes in it when I drained it, but no "chunks". I hope to open it up today.

Edit: The engine still doesn't smoke, even though the air cleaner offers evidence of significant blow-by. I wonder if the previous owner attempted a rebuild, but fudged up the governor assembly?? We'll find out . . ..