Archive through May 29, 2011

[jfrederick]

Thanks Dave, yes it should have the steel pin, but I keep snapping those like crazy....the double roll pin has lasted longer than the original hardened pins.

I would like to just get rid of the pins all together and put on some type of driveshaft that I know will not snap a pin or leave me stranded in the yard or on the road when I plow snow.

Is there a driveshaft out there with a rag joint at the front & rear or any other option rather than continuing to use the original driveshaft?

Thanks!

 

[dross]

Is the drive shaft loose in the coupler at either end?

 

[jfrederick]

The driveshaft in the coupler that is at the back of the engine is snug. The coupler started to wear a bit from the pin....then the pin snapped..and snapped again. At the hydro drive, there is a slight bit of play as the hydro has the original pin, not much play though. Rag joint & drive shaft are still new.

I have gone through this thing multiple times and cannot find any reason it should be snapping these pins. Every time I get on the tractor I am afraid of that pin snapping. As I said the double roll pin has lasted longer than the original pin.

 

[mschutz]

Dave Ross, 125 runs great with gas in it. Boy did I feel stupid. The coil was the problem, put on new one and fires right up. Thanks for all your help.

 

[dgallagher]

Is there any repair to an electric PTO? I have replaced 2 in the past year that draw too much amperage. Both were used. Thanks

 

[sblunier]

Justin,

You can use the rag joint style front mount out of a 1450 or 1650 on the xx9 series tractors. I have done this before on several tractors with good results.

 

[jbaker]

Justin if your using OEM pins and they are breaking you have a problem. you mentioned wear at the drive coupler, I am guessing your refering to this part.

If so and that slot is worn it could cause a hammering effect on that pin

 

[cengelking]

Justin, If there is a lot of slop in the drive coupler, either you or have a welder bring it back to original condition. I have done this and you may save a little money than buying a new one. If the drive coupler is badly worn you will probably go through pins. Too much torque will do that. I sheared the front of my coupler off.

 

[sbauer]

I am getting so frustrated with my 782. Last year i gave it a tune up with new points,push rod to open and close points, Kirk Engines coil and points saver, plugs, wires, muffler, carb rebuild, fuel line and filter. And if it running great for the end of last season and snow plowing i mowed twice and it now won't start. I can't get any spark and am so frusterated. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jfrederick]

Steve, would you happen to have any part numbers on those parts? Would that be a direct conversion with no modifications needed? That sounds like something that would work well.

Jeff, that is exactly the part that is warn...warn pretty bad too. It was brand new last year, this would be the 3rd one I am running on it. As I said, I use this tractor, sometimes to its limits when pushing snow especially, and pulling my large yard packer.

Chris, I had thought of doing that with this coupler if there was not another solution, weld it up as you say and then machine a new slot in it.

I think I am going to give Steve's idea a try and see what happens. Would be nice to use this tractor without having to work on it because of this problem. Thanks for the info!

 

[gsmyth]

I'm still fittzing with the spindle grease fitting on a 44A deck. It will not accept grease as the hose blows off the nipple. I probed it a little, but but little success. I discussed with the dealer about what type of a fitting it is and was told a press in fitting. He even sold me several. My question is how do I get a old 1450 grease fitting out without damaging anything or is it permanent to the bearing? The bearing is a IH-ST745 (if my records are correct). I tried the archives but I don't know how to research out if the matter has ever been discussed. Dealers and auto parts guys have been not helpful with talking through press fit fittings (if they do know how to extract one). I'm advised that there is a Cub Cadet Catalog beyond the Operators Manual, with the title of Cub Cadet Parts Catalog 44A 3 Blade Deck Mower Blade Drive. It breaks down the parts of the deck. I can't find it at any link. Anyway press fit fittings are all over the 1450. How do they get removed without damage? I understand that there is a inexpensive hollow punch to put them in. Is there an extraction tool also?

 

[hydroharry]

Justin F - if I'm reading your post correctly, you're saying you replaced that coupler 3 times and the 3rd one is worn really bad, and you keep sheering thru the solid steel pins, and now double roll pins. There has to be something wrong at the other end. I'm wondering if you're hydro pump is hanging up. I've never heard of it, but something is just not allowing the engine to rotate the drive shaft. I'm afraid if you switch over to the rag joints you'll just tear those up. Lets hope some others pipe in that may have had experience. I've replaced a few couplers over the years, and a few of the solid pins, and never really had further trouble. I've seen people use a nut and bolt that works for awhile. Your situation sounds like something more is wrong and causing the pin and coupler failures.

Gary S - there is a CPE-2 Parts book for the mowing deck and many other attachments. It does list the ST-745 bearing for the 44A mowing deck. Unfortunately it shows the grease fitting as part of the bearing. I've had very little experience replacing grease fittings. Most are screw in but I've seen press fit. You should be able to look at the base of the fitting and determine which it is. If it's hexagonal then it should be screw in, and if the base is round it's press fit. To remove a press fit I believe all you need to do is use a pair of pliers at the tip of the fitting and wiggle/pull it out. The screw in type should un-screw of course. To install a press fit I believe all that's necessary is hold the tip with pliers and push it in. You might have to tap around the base to get it to seal somewhat. Hope this helps and works.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - but sometimes do develop a problem unknown to others

 

[jljones]

Gary, all of my grease fittings on the mower deck screw in from the top like a fine threaded bolt. to my knowledge the only pressed in fittings are on the front axle spindles. i'm going to double check my decks in a few mins to make shure. as far as removel goes on the front axle i remove the spindle and wheel and drive whats left of the fitting threw with a roll pin punch. seems like almost every cub i get as at least one broken clean off one of the front spindles. to get your part number you can go to cubcadet.com and look it up by the model number. hope this helps.

 

[jljones]

Steve, i don't mean to but in but did ya check for 12 volts on the coil with the key on and even in the crank posistion? i've seen a few switches lose power on the coil while holding it in the crank posistion but still have it with the key on. by the way that's a really nice photo you have on your profile. i like the rear weights and the tractor looks pretty sharp. not to mention the nice IH logo on the floor.

 

[tcbusch]

Thought you guys might get a kick out of me digging out lilac roots this weekend. I posted the videos on youtube and created a playlist.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?p=PL9E8AC898C837C698

 

[jfrederick]

Harry, that is a good point. My dad also has this same 149 Cub Cadet, he uses his a ton also, plows, snowblowers, drags, diggers....you name it, chances are his Cadet has done it. Now with his, I never remember him replacing the pin, he said a couple times he has had to since he has had it. He bought it back in 1980....

I am also curious to know now that I think of it, I snugged the bolts pretty tight on the rag joint at the hydro pump...would this have anything to do with it?

I wonder if it would be best if I took out the rear-end, had a local IH collector/mechanic re-build the pump & rear end as the rear lately has been leaving puddles in my shop (yet the fluid seems to be level with the fill hole). I have drained the fluids, replaced the filter & re-filled, before this and after this I still snap pins. Last year I also replaced that cork gasket between the pump & rear-end, still did not fix that little leak.

 

[digger]

Terry B.
Now that's pretty dang cool!
You really know how to handle that thing.

 

[jbennett]

Does no one look or click the sponsor buttons above any more!!!!!

Charlie

 

[sbauer]

So why not post in the right spot if you know this was the wrong place?

Charlie

 

[dross]

Terry, beats the heck out of an opra.

Charlie is on it tonight.