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Archive through May 29, 2010
- Thread starter jderstine
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Hmm, isnt my 108 a wide frame? Anyway no matter, I know what needs to be done now, and I'll have it done right and cross my fingers I can still cut the lawn when it gets done. Myron, how long are those times on yours? I'll have them make mine that size. There has been a lot of schlocky welding done on my subframe.
Wayne... As I noted, the upper one in the photo had a wideframe mule drive bracket.
CPE-2 shows that the type you have was standard through Cub Cadet Serial number 400,000. But remember, these items were dealer installed, so the dealers often installed the one in stock vs ordering a "newer" style. This style was also used
through 1979 in the adapting packages to use the 38,44,50 & 38A,44A & 50A series decks on Cub Cadets below Serial number 400,000. This style adaptor was not used on the C series decks built from 1979 onward for the 82 series Cub Cadets. So having one on a 1x8/9 series isn't a big surprise though most will have the other (WF) style.
If you take a good look at your subframe you will see where the PO tacked on those round extensions. Take'em off and it appears that the length will be correct. They'll just need beefing up. The welder should narrow the space between them to match the bar they fit on by thickening the "tines". Proper latching of the Quick Attach mule drive bracket at the front will ensure the tines go back far enough to fit correctly.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
CPE-2 shows that the type you have was standard through Cub Cadet Serial number 400,000. But remember, these items were dealer installed, so the dealers often installed the one in stock vs ordering a "newer" style. This style was also used
through 1979 in the adapting packages to use the 38,44,50 & 38A,44A & 50A series decks on Cub Cadets below Serial number 400,000. This style adaptor was not used on the C series decks built from 1979 onward for the 82 series Cub Cadets. So having one on a 1x8/9 series isn't a big surprise though most will have the other (WF) style.
If you take a good look at your subframe you will see where the PO tacked on those round extensions. Take'em off and it appears that the length will be correct. They'll just need beefing up. The welder should narrow the space between them to match the bar they fit on by thickening the "tines". Proper latching of the Quick Attach mule drive bracket at the front will ensure the tines go back far enough to fit correctly.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
cc 106 42" deck at least thats what i figure by measuring from tip of outer blade to other side of outer blade. it as 2 short blades on outside deck and 22" blade in center.
question i got is what size length of pto drive belt needed. and also how can i check to see if front pto is working.
i just brought this and got it running today and installed mower deck and belt which came with it. but when motor starts the blades are turning too. the pto leveler doesn't matter if moved either way. it cut but cann't control blades.
im thinking belt is to short because i had to leave adjusting screw out all the way and belt is still real tight... also how does pto work because i seen the leveler at the front of pto touches clutch or pto and when the leveler is disenaged the leveler is away from front of pto.
thanks
allen
question i got is what size length of pto drive belt needed. and also how can i check to see if front pto is working.
i just brought this and got it running today and installed mower deck and belt which came with it. but when motor starts the blades are turning too. the pto leveler doesn't matter if moved either way. it cut but cann't control blades.
im thinking belt is to short because i had to leave adjusting screw out all the way and belt is still real tight... also how does pto work because i seen the leveler at the front of pto touches clutch or pto and when the leveler is disenaged the leveler is away from front of pto.
thanks
allen
Wayne Steffens-
You might want to check the condition of the bar the fork goes over. They wear as well through the years. I filled/welded one a few weeks ago that was over half way through. You have to stand on your head to see it. If it's heavily worn it will need filling with weld to "tighten up" the lift action.
Just a thought....good luck.
You might want to check the condition of the bar the fork goes over. They wear as well through the years. I filled/welded one a few weeks ago that was over half way through. You have to stand on your head to see it. If it's heavily worn it will need filling with weld to "tighten up" the lift action.
Just a thought....good luck.
dmcdermott
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- Mar 29, 2010
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- Daniel McDermott
I picked up a new addition to my Cub stuff yesterd. Its a 14 HP for the 1200, I tore it down and now its off to the machine shop to get the small scoring out of the cylinder wall. Should be a good motor.
Wayne, I did notice some wear on the bar yesterday. It didnt look like more than fractions of an inch had worn off, but there was wear. Thanks for mentioning that because I was wondering how tight of a fit I want between the tines and the bar. It sounds like it needs to be pretty snug. Hopefully a little wear wont be a big problem, because I have no way of getting the entire tractor to a welder. (unless I drive it to town)
Myron, I actually think the tines need to be a little longer. Although the lower one is damaged its the top one that is slipping down and off the bar. There are some goofy things going on here though, but thats what it looks like. When I try to mount just the sub frame onto the tractor only the tip of the top tine is barely touching the bar.
The other goofy thing going on is that as of recently, I cant seem to get the mule drive pulleys under the proper tension. If I tighten the adjustable one so that the belt between it and the PTO is near vertical, as I've been told to do, the idler arm pulley is so far back the notch in its lever arm (not the proper name I'm sure) that is supposed to be visible out front (according to the diagram on front) isnt. In other words its really hard to release the belt tension by depressing the idler pulley. I'm using the same type of belt I used for years, a 490489R2. I dont know if this trouble is related to the former problem with the tines or not.
Myron, I actually think the tines need to be a little longer. Although the lower one is damaged its the top one that is slipping down and off the bar. There are some goofy things going on here though, but thats what it looks like. When I try to mount just the sub frame onto the tractor only the tip of the top tine is barely touching the bar.
The other goofy thing going on is that as of recently, I cant seem to get the mule drive pulleys under the proper tension. If I tighten the adjustable one so that the belt between it and the PTO is near vertical, as I've been told to do, the idler arm pulley is so far back the notch in its lever arm (not the proper name I'm sure) that is supposed to be visible out front (according to the diagram on front) isnt. In other words its really hard to release the belt tension by depressing the idler pulley. I'm using the same type of belt I used for years, a 490489R2. I dont know if this trouble is related to the former problem with the tines or not.
fcurrier
Well-known member
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- Jul 5, 2004
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- 3,155
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Strange things happen around here on Memorial Day Weekend:
PLEASE note the 123 isn't the target! The white birch is about 90 yards out and a friend stopped by with what he calls a M4. Looks and feels like a M16 to me. Out of 5 rounds, 2 were duds. Sound familiar to anyone? Don't get me wrong, I wasn't in 'Nam. 4 years in the Navy and 8 in the National Guard was my military experience. I'll get back on topic later.
PLEASE note the 123 isn't the target! The white birch is about 90 yards out and a friend stopped by with what he calls a M4. Looks and feels like a M16 to me. Out of 5 rounds, 2 were duds. Sound familiar to anyone? Don't get me wrong, I wasn't in 'Nam. 4 years in the Navy and 8 in the National Guard was my military experience. I'll get back on topic later.
Wayne S: The PO of your Cub Cadet tried that band-aid fix for his subframe heart-attack. That's why he spot welded on those rod extensions, which are not supposed to be on there. Extending the tines is <u>NOT</u> the answer. If the tines don't quite go back far enough as you described, I suspect that your Quick Attach mule-drive pulley bracket is not locked in and back far enough where it's supposed to be....That would also account for the belt adjustment problem. Check your subframe installation closely...
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Yesterday, I discovered what I initially thought was an incorrect replacement pulley on my 48" deck. The left pulley is about 30% bigger than the right one. That seemed like an obvious reason why the left blade never cuts as well as the other two.
This deck is the '68-'71 variety. I started looking through the parts diagrams to find out if the 48" outer pulley was the same as the 42" outer pulley and discovered that my 48" deck uses different pulleys on the left and right.
Any idea why IH ran the left blade slower? Has anyone ever swapped pulleys to bring the speed up to match the right blade?
Thanks,
Jerry
This deck is the '68-'71 variety. I started looking through the parts diagrams to find out if the 48" outer pulley was the same as the 42" outer pulley and discovered that my 48" deck uses different pulleys on the left and right.
Any idea why IH ran the left blade slower? Has anyone ever swapped pulleys to bring the speed up to match the right blade?
Thanks,
Jerry
Jerry that was to help get the clippings out from under the deck better. You could change the center pulley to speed up all the blades. Also high lift blades will help.Also be sure your baffles are in good condition.
Myron-I cant imagine how I could screw up mounting the mule drive bracket. Though I would not put anything past me, it seems too straightforward for even me to screw up. I will try to take some pictures today...
kide
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- Aug 27, 2006
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- Gerry Ide
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Pulled the bad 7hp engine from my mod 70 and starting to pull the replacement from the parts tractor I bought. Taking a quick look at my mod 70 steering while the engine is out of the way I see that there is quite a bit of slop in the steering tube assembly as I turn the wheel. The tube itself is floating around. I know I need to rebuild the steering later, but shouldn't the steering tube be some how bolted to the frame? I am looking with a flashlight and don't see any loose or missing bolt(s). I've got my TC-113 manual open and I don't see any attachment to the frame am I missing something other then being mechanicaly challenged?
