Archive through May 27, 2010

[dtanner]

(I was trying to fine tune it while running as it kept wanting to run fast)

Now if that happened to me after I smashed the balance gears , I would see if a governor fly weight has not jammed up. But then I`am old and slow and too much to do. have a look.

 

[gsmyth]

1450
I have to be getting close. I've done what dealer said to do and it didn't work.

(Note: painted colors are mine to reinstall stuff in the right place. I finally got to the front, PTO end, and removed the two bolts he advised. See pic. I was told that doing that would allow the drive shaft to be pulled back enough to clear engine. When clear, then I could move the shaft forward enough to clear the rear of the shaft at the transmission end and slide off the old fan core and install the new fan - remembering the circlip goes on first - one with actual blades. The drive shaft moves to the rear about 3/8 of an inch. It does not clear. There are two other bolts I did not remove. Was I advised to remove the wrong two? Before I undo them (very close quarters for my hands) what should I find? I cannot see a dowel pin which the manual indicates should be there (Page 2-43). I can feel by movement something but I can't see it much less remove it at present. And how is it removed? Is it hidden behind the flex at the PTO end? Also, Do I have to drive the engine end drive shaft roll pin too (also in a pic)? If so any thoughts on how that part of the shaft ought to be supported to drive that? There is barely clearance to see much less throw in a jack piston. The camera w flash gives me a LOT more than I can see with artificial and daylight. I don't give up easily but this simple thing is testing me mightily. (Vent) Passive aggressive case #1. On top of skinned everything on me, a neighbor visits, sees me working on this, knows I can't cut grass or move the tractor, goes home, starts up, and cuts his three times a week. I admit, he got to me. I'm getting to really hate the sound of that tractor.(End vent)

 

[scole]

Jeff - Could you take some pics of the rod bearing surface and the rod journal on the crank? If you feel any kind of roughness on the rod then it needs replaced. If you feel any kind of roughness on the crank then it needs ground.

 

[rwilke]

Jeff B. and Fellas,

"...as it kept wanting to run fast..."

If the engine was over revving, couldn't that damage the rod journal, even gall the aluminum?

Yeah, if so, it would require probably a new rod and bearing, but be thankful that the crank wasn't hurt.
Ryan Wilke

 

[kweaver]

Gary - Tell me that those 2 flex disc don't go like you have them painted and the 2 cast couplers ...

IF so then there would be NO flex !

You should have been able to have got the shaft out like you were told. It seems like you may have to remove the engine mounting bolts and slide the engine forward.

 

[kweaver]

Second look - You don't have white paint on the pump coupler there so maybe you're not going to be putting it back like you have it lined up in the pic.

 

[jderstine]

Stopped over at the in laws farm to check out a 1947/48 Roth's Industries Model W "walking tractor". I noticed my BIL got the Cub running ( new battery ) and brought it down to the barn.

This used to be used on a weekly basis for cleaning out the steer pen. Still runs and works pretty good.

Jeff

 

[jderstine]

I need some help here identifying the crankshaft on the bottom. The one on the top is out of a 123.

A Ebayer seller had a quite a few narrow frame parts for sale along with this freshly ground crankshaft listed as a "K301 Crankshaft". I purchased it and when I measured it, the shaft was 1.125, not the 1.000 I need for my 125.

The tapers are exactly the same as threads, bearings and seal diameters.

The only differences are the 123 crankshaft has a 1.000 diameter shaft 2-11/16" long while the freshly ground crank has a 1.125 diameter shaft 3-9/16" long.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Jeff

 

[lfcurtis]

Well guys I guess I'm as loose in the head as you people. a month ago I had a green machine, now I have a running 100 ,123 and 125 in pieces a running
149 w/deck, plow and tiller and tonite I went and picked up a complete unrestored barn kept 120 starts right up with no smoke clutch to the deck broken hope one off the 123 or 125 will work

 

[lfcurtis]

I just might have the most in Arkansas need to thin them out some I guess

 

[mfisher]

Old and new. 1973 Cub and 2010 rental car!

 

[fcurrier]

Jeff: I think that lower crank is from a K301AQS, as in Quietline series.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff D.-

If he didn't say it was specifically for a Cub Cadet, it's probably out of some other application that used a different crankshaft.

 

[kweaver]

Jeff - It's a FERD K301 , got one sitting out in the garage.

 

[jderstine]

Thanks Frank
Did I read earlier that the cranks interchange on the 12 hp, 14 hp and 16 hp? ( K301 / K321 & K341 )

Matt,
I measured the taper and they match EXACTLY. From what I understand, other tractors have a different taper. The taper matches exactly in minor and major diameters plus length of taper.

Ken,
Need a fresh ground crank?

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff-

Only other thing I can think of is that it's out of a K301 from a 1282 or maybe an M12 out of a 1210/1211.

 

[kweaver]

Jeff - You see that's the kind of hype you get in this screwy world. "They think" just because it's "Blue" it'll have more torque than a green or Federal Yellow K301 so they need a larger diameter.

Come to think of it I would like to know if the cam specs are different ... Jim D you reading this ??

 

[jbaker]

on my k301, no Dennis I did not take the rod apart during inspection and Don I also did not have to smash the gears out they came out with out much effort and NO damage but will defintly check the govener .

The rod cap and rod roughness I spoke of is very shallow grooving and the crank is smooth except for a spot that seemed to start to groove but didn,t. I dont have a decent camera right now to take a picture.

I plan on running up to my local dealer to see what the service guy thinks of the rod and rings.

 

[tstewart]

Well a couple good things to post about.

I had been in contact with a fellow on craigslist about a 1450 (a model I've been trying to find) but after he said it wasnt running and had been sitting outside for many years... well I didnt want a project tractor now. But I went up a checked it out today, offered him half what he wanted and brought it home.

A little rough but the price was right and I could use it for parts if not restore it. 44 deck and snow blade and a pair of those plastic coated wheel weights.

Also worked on the tiller some, and used the rusty mule drive from the above 1450 to bend straight. That made a big difference... although still a couple issues and the belt came of twice, but was able to do the whole garden. Now just to figure out what to do with the 1450... was toying with the idea of making a '1400' out of my 1000, but the 10 horse in that tractor runs great.

 

[gsmyth]

1450
This is not the site to be coddled but with yesterday's revelation that now I have to move the engine to release the drive shaft to install a new fan I'm getting ticked. My thanks to Ken in earlier post. He pointed out that there may be no flex in the flex joints. See pic I posted yesterday with the painted marks on the flex joints indicating how things were to be put back.

The pic here shows a cropped portion of a previously posted photo that shows what existed when I first opened the tunnel. That is the way I found the tractor before I started to remove the fan. If the flex joints are wrong in the pic then that is the way they they were when a number of things were repaired/replaced from the dealer two years ago. If the flex discs need to be changed now that is yet another thing I need to do. I'm pretty sure I know what existed before but not if it was correct. Help in getting it replaced the right way and it will be done.

Now if the engine needs to be slid forward, then I have no idea how that should be done. What do I have to take away to get to the engine mounts?I'm GUESSING I need about 3/8 inch to clear the drive shaft. I'm this far in, and the tractor cannot move with stuff disconnected so what next? I do have a service manual, I can follow directions, but I've never been here before and I'm asking you put up with me a while longer. Small increments please, as disassembly is one thing, putting it all back "right" when "right" is elusive can take extra time. As the entertainer said "I'll be here all weekend".