Archive through May 26, 2013

[jcleer]

Tom here is my trick, but it is not all that safe.....
Take the needle out of the stem and then wrap a ratchet strap around the center of the tire and hook it back on itself, then tighten. I normally tighten it until I get some distortion, then take a plastic face hammer along the strap so the load is even all the way around, ie removes the dimple created from tightening the strap. inflate slowly but do not go too far as the strap will not let the tire expand right. then release the strap and hopefully the bead stays. if it does get the needle in it and off you go. BUT BE CAREFULL

 

[nbextermueller]

Tom,

I agree with Joe. I just used to strap method on a set of fronts for a neighbor the other day.

The skinny 1" wide straps work great. When you ratchet in the middle. The beads go up and out to the beads. I ratchet till they touch. If you can get the beads to touch, I use dish soapy water all over the beads to help them slide on. Heck, I seat the beads, then drain the air and let the strap loose. NEVER release the strap with more then 10PSI in the tire.

That being said, there is always the ether method.... But is dangerous (and fun) I'm not giving directions for that, YouTube will give you the good and bad of that deal.

 

[fcurrier]

Tom: That grille looks so sharp I have to ask for more pic(s) and story about it.

 

[drglinski]

Tom

I take my wheels/tires to a tire place for mounting, let them cuss at it.

 

[rciminieri]

Happy Memorial Day to all!!!

 

[thoffman]

Thanks for the ratchet strap help. Tried that a few hours ago when I was saying words I never knew before. I even entertained the either method, but that is a road I don't want to go down.
The chroming process is a process that can be don on ANY surface. There is a guy not too far from me that is doing that. The chroming process is big in California. I thought it will look good on the tractor that I'm working on now. It will be black frame, red sheet matal with aluminum oxide rims, chrome and brushed aluminum trim.

 

[mfrade]

Tom, I once recieved a set of tires that must've been at the bottom of a huge pile of tires and left my 2 flattened. I tried the straps, then ether.. none of that worked. I finally got serious and used acetylene! Keep in the valve stem, open the torch acetylene valve,pushing gas into the tire count to 6 or 8.. light the torch and pass it over the space where you added gas and instant tire installation!

I've had other guys bring tires that couldn't be seated. I get'em on everytime!

 

[bjamison]

Tightened the throttle pivot on the 126 - thanks for the tip on how to do this. Hauled it to my Dad's camp to join the 109 for camp mowing duty this summer. The only thing left in the basement is my 1650 that I will turn my attention to and my 122 which I need to take off the 3 point lift to use on the 126 one of these days.

Hope everyone is having a great Memorial Day - and remembering those who gave their all so we could enjoy this day!

 

[thoffman]

Mike,
Either can be ues in the same way if you don't access to the "blue wrench". You're a braver man than I!
I think there should be a PSA here or something.

 

[digger]

Tom H.
I think it's about time to start a new thread in the Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! ! section so these guys can keep up with your project.

 

[thoffman]

Charlie,
Will start soon. Thanks!

 

[aaytay]

Tom-
Your project sounds neat. We need a picture of the aluminum Oxide powder coating on those rims!

 

[mfrade]

Tom, tried the ether.. didn't work. If you have a tire shop close by, some of them have a cylinder of air with a large hose that discharges a huge shot of air.. Works sometimes.

 

[pdorow]

mfrade,

Ether works well too.

 

[bjamison]

Quick question - the grommet that holds the fuel shut-off valve on my 1650 is toast. I tried to pull the valve out of the tank to clean it and the grommet broke into pieces. I've got an old Troybilt tiller with a Kohler M8 on it and a spare grommet for it - as I had the same deal happen on that fuel tank and ordered a couple when I fixed it. The part number for it is Kohler 2531301S. The part number for the IHCC grommet is 751-3008. Hole diameter looks the same and I have a hunch this grommet will work. Before I give it a try, I wanted to ask if anyone else had used a similar Kohler grommet vs the IHCC one. I'm wondering if the IHCC grommet is simply a Kohler in an IH bag.

 

[pfitzwater]

Hey every one, Got the 128 out and started replaceing the parts that broke last fall. I orderd a new idler tension spring for my 48" deck. went to remove the bolt and it snaped off. Went to a dealer and they said my bracket is broken. The spacer should be attached to the arm and its not. They also said a new arm is discontinued, but I found a "arm kit-deck idler" for $33.00 on the parts list online, this dealer made a comment about "it would be 30 bucks" before he said it was discontinued and an other dealer I went to before this mentioned a kit but didn't have one in stock. So I assume its listed. I guess I have two questions.

1- do they still sell a kit?

2- If I welded a piece of round tubing to the arm, can I get away with a little gap between the bolt and pipe? or should these pieces be a machined fit? From what the old pieces look like there was a little play between the bolt and spacer but every thing is so gunged up and seized together and not knowing what it was before. Its hard to tell.

I should say, I already purchased a new bolt with grease fitting, new spring from CC Specialties, and a piece of black pipe 3/4 inside diameter the length of the shaft of the bolt. Hoping I can repair this bracket But wanted to see what you guys say first

 

[jchamberlin]

Patrick James Fitzwater: If you're talking about Item 23 in the Parts Lookup exploded view below, P/N IH-548457-R1 described as "ARM KIT-DECK IDLER," I purchased a similar part for my 42" deck (IH 486 355-R1) from a dealer in 2011. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two parts, but in the case of IH 486 355-R1 it appeared to be two pieces welded together, the cylinder part fit inside the spring. The improvement was found in the bolt, which came with a grease fitting. I understand the 48" deck had more variations than the 42" and 38" decks of the same vintage, your deck may be more uncommon than mine. I can't remember exactly, but I think the spring was located on the flat portion by hole. There is a trick to getting the "assembly" installed on the deck, it should go back on WITHOUT having to put tension on the spring, if I recall correctly.

 

[digger]

Patrick F.
As always, Cub dealers and others online say they have and don't.

BUT, our sponsors do.

 

[dschwandt]

Question about a fresh overhaul on a K321 w/.030" bore, new piston and rod. OK to Use 20% MMO for break in on a new engine w/straight 30 weight oil or not??

Thanks!
Dave S.

 

[digger]

David S.
If it were mine, I'd refrain from the MMO until way after break in. My 3 cents on the deal.