Archive through May 25, 2015

[digger]

Wayne S.
Yep, that's all ours, LOL

The manuals link on the forum goes to the same place and same stuff.

It's actually easier to find stuff using this link,
http://www.ccmanuals.info/manuals.html

Actually it should belong to Kraig, He scanned probably 95% of the manuals on there!

 

[hydroharry]

Charlie - I think what Wayne is saying is that there are alot of manuals and documents in there that are not linked to the manuals section of the Forum. I use to use it myself.

 

[kide]

 

[digger]

Well I've been a little preoccupied the last year or so and it hasn't been a high priority to get the site completed.
I won't say how I really feel about ccmanuals or cubfaq!

 

[jchamberlin]

Mick: I think you're on the right track. The stator in the Kohler motors I'm familiar with put out AC voltage on two wires, the outside terminals at the rectifier connector on the shroud; the middle terminal is positive DC output with reference to the chassis ground. Standard diagnostic procedure is to pull the connector back a bit so you can probe the terminals, and make sure you're getting 35 VAC or so at wide open throttle between the two outside terminals. Then probe from ground to the middle terminal looking for 13.0 to 14.5 volts or so (I can't ever remember the values exactly, but it should be MORE THAN 12 VDC). If you have the output from the rectifier the battery should be charging; that is, you should see the same (or similar) DC voltage probing across the positive and negative terminals at the battery. (Make sure the battery is grounded properly.) If you don't see 13.0 or better volts at the battery with the motor running at wide open throttle, but you do see it at the rectifier, then something is wrong in the wiring harness: the current isn't getting from the rectifier to the battery. Then you have to start tracing it out from the rectifier, through the ignition key, to the battery. I hope you don't have to get that deeply into it.

I've offered you the diagnostic path I would follow, others may provide short-cuts or tips based on their experience. Good luck.

 

[dschwandt]

Maybe something along these lines, a detailed diagnostic, should be added to the FAQ's

Very interesting, but if I don't print this off and ad it to my paper collection, I don't know how I could ever search & recover it from these threads, given the luck I have had searching them for other stuff.

 

[digger]

David S.
Tellya what.
You research the info, put it together and send it to me and I'll add it to the FAQ's!

 

[dschwandt]

Charlie...
Looks like Jeremiah has it pretty much covered.

Do you have a source for the longer tie rod ends so we can get more that 3 threads engaged on each end of the rod?

Working on the 100 this past weekend and could barely get enough length to get both front wheels pointing like they should with the front edges closer together the the rear edges. The older style I replaced were like 3/8" longer body than the new replacements. Surely. I cant be the only one that has encountered this.

 

[jclazar]

Hello! Its good to be on board with the very best when it comes to our IH Cub Cadet lawn and garden tractors! I absolutely love it here, and tinkering/using my IH Cub Cadet 1450!

Got the garden in over the holiday weekend for her. I'm still sore, lol! Now, I can use my IH #2 cart equipped with a 55 gallon barrel to water my garden.

So lately my 1450 had been actin up. At about mid throttle, the Kohler built carb would act as if fuel was not making it to the combustion chamber. I had recently installed a Kohler carb kit, and scratched my head as to what could be the problem here.

I removed the carb and disassembled it. Everything look clean, so I blew it out with compressed air and reassembled. I zeroed out the two needles, and set according to the Kohler engine manual.

Next, I cleaned the Autolite 210 spark plug. It looked really good, and I checked the gap for a .025 measurement. At this point, I kept telling myself that these engines just don't un-time themselves. I removed the points cover, and turned the engine over by hand until the points opened. I measured that gap and it was less than .020 . I then cleaned and reset the gap to .022 and started the tractor.

I ran the engine for quite some time. I adjusted my throttle and choke controls. I turned down the idle speed screw. Took it for a haul around the 5 acre property line, and opened up the throttle! Now, this engine runs so good, you would think its an 82 series twin!

I checked the new Cub Cadet ISO engine mounts, and all was good. This Quiet Line is absolutely an amazing garden tractor. I'm happy that I was able to make the repair a success! This 1450 is better than factory new!

Thank you all for the help. I enjoy the commentary and knowledge shared!

 

[esmith]

Hi guys,

I have a Cub Cadet 70 and it is in a bad state, I am slowly going to restore it, I'm from the UK and wondered if any of you guys knew of where I can get the correct color yellow and white from or at least what you lot use, any help will be much appreciated,
Thanks.