WAYNE - On the underside baffles, make them from the thickest steel you can work with, I recommend something around 1/8 inch thk. On my 38" deck I made them 2 inches tall, they extend from the under side of the deck to just below the cutting edge of the blades. And the closer you can get them to the blade tips the better. On my 38" deck I have them about 1/8 inch from the blade tips. And I welded them SOLID to the deck and reinforced the points of the arcs where the baffles intersect with angle iron, but flat stock would work good too.
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Archive through May 25, 2011
- Thread starter dfrisk
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I go to turn the deck over I'm working on and find this girl having her last meal.
That's one cicada I won't be hearing.
Kraig-
Thanks anyway. The deck doesn't have to be perfect by any means but I always strive. It's a lot of trouble for anyone to get the pic I asked for. I thought you might have one stashed. I actually have several 42" decks but any with the baffles are all messed up from heavy usage and half of the baffling missing.
Thanks again!
That's one cicada I won't be hearing.
Kraig-
Thanks anyway. The deck doesn't have to be perfect by any means but I always strive. It's a lot of trouble for anyone to get the pic I asked for. I thought you might have one stashed. I actually have several 42" decks but any with the baffles are all messed up from heavy usage and half of the baffling missing.
Thanks again!
I just now refreshed and see Dennis and Dave with their input.
Dennis-
I remember seeing some pics you posted I think last year and it is a monster job. I don't care to do that good of a job on something that's going down the drive and not coming back. I have some 1/16" stuff 1-1/2" wide that will work just fine.
Dave-
I know what you're saying but I had a couple of ?s about the ends. The way you speak of is how I did my first couple of decks but that's been a couple years. I even found some 3/4" angle cut at 3/4" lengths left over from then with the holes already drilled. This is going to be fun in 94* weather with the welder. I also have rods and holes to fill to tighten things up.
Thanks again guys!
Dennis-
I remember seeing some pics you posted I think last year and it is a monster job. I don't care to do that good of a job on something that's going down the drive and not coming back. I have some 1/16" stuff 1-1/2" wide that will work just fine.
Dave-
I know what you're saying but I had a couple of ?s about the ends. The way you speak of is how I did my first couple of decks but that's been a couple years. I even found some 3/4" angle cut at 3/4" lengths left over from then with the holes already drilled. This is going to be fun in 94* weather with the welder. I also have rods and holes to fill to tighten things up.
Thanks again guys!
dlouw
Well-known member
FWIW. I can only share what I have. This deck has since been sanded and is currently awiating paint. I still have to get the right blades before I can fix the baffle. I agree with the others, try and make it fairly thick steel but I won't go closer than 1/4 inch to the blades. I will bolt "L" pieces to the baffle and small bolts to the deck as it was fitted originally. The gap between the baffle and the deck edge in the centre is also a dirt trap which I may try to eliminate.
Dawid, I knew I'd seen a photo of one recently but I couldn't find it.
Sheese, I can find stuff that was posted nearly a decade ago but can't find stuff posted just a few weeks ago.
Thanks for posting that again.
I have a 1963 Cub Cadet Original I recently purchased. It is restored and in very nice condition. I am using it to cut grass weekly. The "mule" belt which drives the 38" deck is working but I suspect it will not last much longer. It looks stretched and dry rotted. Does anyone have a part number or diminsion to reference to for a new belt? I am having a hard time finding one. Thanks
mpatterson
Well-known member
Well I think I found one major problem with my 982 and why it won't start correctly. Went to start it tonight and had to boost it to get it going. Still showed it de-charging but went with it anyway to wom. Then as I was coming up 1 of the only 2 hills I have on my lawn, it started acting up. The engine was chugg'n and the clutch sounded HORRIBLE like it was losing power. So I shut it off and it straightend up a little but it was still missing and coughing, so I headed for the garage since there was NO WAY I was pushing this thing if it quit. Pulled in the garage, lifted the hood and watched it run like crap to see if I could see anything. Removed the side panels and thought I noticed a spark under the gas tank.
Stood and watched some more and yep! When you see a bright blue glow/flash below the gas tank - that can't be good!?
Once I verified the area it was coming from I shut it down. Started fishing around the hot engine....and well if you have the protective mesh casing AND the one 12ga wire worn RIGHT THROUGH - thats not good! Ends up the white wire running to the rectifier (??) the little plate on the right side of the motor with 3 wires running out of it was arcing off the mesh sreen on the back side of the engine as it rotated around. YIKES! So I went to the old man's in search of some new 12ga wire to splice it and put some shrink tube on it. Lets hope this is ALL that is wrong with it??
Once I verified the area it was coming from I shut it down. Started fishing around the hot engine....and well if you have the protective mesh casing AND the one 12ga wire worn RIGHT THROUGH - thats not good! Ends up the white wire running to the rectifier (??) the little plate on the right side of the motor with 3 wires running out of it was arcing off the mesh sreen on the back side of the engine as it rotated around. YIKES! So I went to the old man's in search of some new 12ga wire to splice it and put some shrink tube on it. Lets hope this is ALL that is wrong with it??
mpatterson
Well-known member
Dave R. I am just hoping this SOLVES my problem and I do not need to chase another wiring issue after I repair this one. Wiring things seem to be one of the more frustrating things to chase I think, no matter what your fixing.
Can anyone tell me the normal length of the two lift straps for a sleeve hitch assembly? I picked the steel up today for mine and would like to start cutting it to length and start drilling holes perhaps tomorrow or the next day since it is still calling for more rain. Trying to get it all welded up this weekend so I can plow my garden and maybe get the tiller run through it. But if it rains I will only be plowing I'd think. Shame too, its actually starting to dry up around here - had a 50% chance of getting garden planted this weekend if the weather would just take a hike for a few days longer!
I bought 1/2"x2" for the bottom "U" shaped piece and 1/4"x1-1/2" for the straps. The round "pipe" I got for the pin to go through is just under 3/4" inside diameter with a bood 5/16" wall if I remember correctly. Its fairly thick anyway.
These materials should work ok?
Can anyone tell me the normal length of the two lift straps for a sleeve hitch assembly? I picked the steel up today for mine and would like to start cutting it to length and start drilling holes perhaps tomorrow or the next day since it is still calling for more rain. Trying to get it all welded up this weekend so I can plow my garden and maybe get the tiller run through it. But if it rains I will only be plowing I'd think. Shame too, its actually starting to dry up around here - had a 50% chance of getting garden planted this weekend if the weather would just take a hike for a few days longer!
I bought 1/2"x2" for the bottom "U" shaped piece and 1/4"x1-1/2" for the straps. The round "pipe" I got for the pin to go through is just under 3/4" inside diameter with a bood 5/16" wall if I remember correctly. Its fairly thick anyway.
These materials should work ok?
I have brought a 106 back to life and can see how you guys learn to love these machines..
Can someone that has an 1A tiller please post some pictures of the tension pulley? I recently purched one and it is missing. It is also missing the saftey guard, but I can run without that..
Also I'm trying to find the two belts to move the tiller, The long one I think is:
Tiller Belt for Quietline or Wide Frame Tractors 7/16" X 145" PN/ IH-61959-C1.
I'm not sure what the one that goes from the pto to the tiller, I think 7/16" x 54 but that is just a guess since i don't have the tension pulley.
I have read the online manuals and searched the forum a lot. I have e-mail two of the above listed supliers, but have not gotten a reply.
Thanks in advance.
Can someone that has an 1A tiller please post some pictures of the tension pulley? I recently purched one and it is missing. It is also missing the saftey guard, but I can run without that..
Also I'm trying to find the two belts to move the tiller, The long one I think is:
Tiller Belt for Quietline or Wide Frame Tractors 7/16" X 145" PN/ IH-61959-C1.
I'm not sure what the one that goes from the pto to the tiller, I think 7/16" x 54 but that is just a guess since i don't have the tension pulley.
I have read the online manuals and searched the forum a lot. I have e-mail two of the above listed supliers, but have not gotten a reply.
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone know if the oring size on this is true to what the part number says it should be. Supposed to be 11/4x11/2x1/8" But that size seems real loose..This is a picture of what it looked like when I took it apart First time Ive ever worked on a cadet hydraulic cylinder..Having quite a time trying to find much info about rebuilding the piston . Its off a 105 and I'm putting it on my 100. I would sure appreciate if someone could school me just a little
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Calvin Ledford - I was wondering about changing that bearing in the electric PTO as well. On the Quiet Line series I believe the bearing is held in with a large spring C-clip. It sounds as tho it was done differently on the 82 series. Let me know if you get your bearing out. I've got one I'd like to replace. Had it sitting around along time and want to make sure it's good.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Mike, good thing you found that wiring issue when you did. Hate to have a 982 go
Here's some info for the sleeve hitch.
Mike, one more:
Justin- One other word of advice is to make sure you get the right belts from either you local dealer or one of the fine sponsors above for your tiller. I had a belt snap on my tiller this spring and went to the dealer to get one and they gave me the wrong width belt!! Wasn't too happy to have to put the belt on 2 times to get it right and make a second trip back to the dealer for the same part that should have been right the first time around!!
