Archive through May 25, 2006

[dkirk]

Here's a couple pics of my 107 with deck removed. Engine is presently getting pulled for a rebore, new valves, and a general freshening up. Might just have to port, relieve, and polish things a bit...kind of hard to resist when she's all apart.

 

[bmcmeen]

Terry B. -

You might want to consider why I used jam nuts, not full sized nuts on my studs...

And also remember, it's a great setup for getting the gearbox on and off quickly, but it really sucks if you're gonna plow with the studs supporting the lower bracket:

 

[wheinsohn]

Bryan,
I have had my 1650 to 6 or 7 plow days and my 3 studs look just fine. The 109 has been to 4 plow days and the 149 has been to 3 and they are also good. I think the key is to have studs in all 5 holes to work and support the hitch and tiller mount properly. I think that the plowing at Gus's plow day was just as hard as when you bent those studs at Little G

 

[bmcmeen]

Wes -

Good for you - I'm glad you haven't had any issues.

It's better to show all sides rather than make someone believe they'll never, ever have any problems. Are you willing to make that guarantee?

<font size="-2">I think they call it "fair and balanced"

</font>

 

[wheinsohn]

Terry,
As I stated below, I have the studs on most of my tractors. As Bryan said, use jam nuts instead of full nuts. I use the belt that is called for on my 109 without any trouble.

 

[wheinsohn]

Bryan, I can not guarantee it will not happen. Higher HP than 16 could do the same thing yours did. Do you know what grade your studs were? Mine are grade 8, or at least that is what the book says they are supposed to be. I don't think Deere would lie about that information. Of course they were a little pricy also. I think it was almost $3 a piece. But they were the right length. I could screw them all the way in and then tighten the jam nut against the rear plate and still have enough left to put the lower lift plate and the drawbar back on.

 

[tcbusch]

Tiller guys,
I noticed that you are suppose to install the bottom sleeve hitch bracket on top of the tiller gearbox bracket. This would be the yellow bracket tucked behind the pulley. Mounted using the bottom bolts of the rear plate. I am assuming you only install the upper 2 bolts and not the bottom center bolt. With studs I could install a nut on the bottom stud. I figured it wouldn't hurt but I don't want to put stress on the bottom stud without a backing nut. Do you stud guys put a nut on the bottom stud or do you leave it off?

BTW, Thanks Bryan, for the use of your nicely painted tiller box picture.

(Message edited by tcbusch on May 29, 2006)

 

[rparnell]

Hello Cub Owners,
My name is Richard and I live in Texas.
I recently pick up a 1450 that I intend on restoring. I have a manual on the way and after a lot of cleaning I have one major problem. The Hydro leaks (oozes) fluid from the left check valve top. I think it is a check valve, some of the picts in the FAQ's helped but, I don't have the manual to explain everything.
Question has anyone seen this condition and is the fix anything reasonable?

 

[wheinsohn]

Terry,
How do your lower arms fasten to the bracket? Does yours have pins with hairpins like the manual shows or shoulder bolts like mine has? Mine came with shoulder bolts which would be impossible to get in with the hitch bracket installed. This may have been something the PO did to mine since I bought it used and do not know what it came with originally. Since I always take mine off as one piece, I do not worry about it. To me it is easier to remove 4 nuts, remove long belt, block up the mount and drive away from it. To install, I just back up to it and usually just push it the rest of the way on the studs and reinstall nuts and belt.

 

[rbedell]

Richard P:

Welcome to the Forum.

YES, that leaking check valve issue has surfaced before. The easiest way to correct that problem, is to replace that check valve. The check valve has internal rubber "O" rings that are leaking.

A forum member (R Christensen) done a Check Valve repair. He had the necessary shop tools (metal lathe & mig welder) to cut open this valve, make the needed repairs, and weld it back together. Unless you have the tools and talents for same, replacement is the easier route.

(Message edited by RBedell on May 30, 2006)

 

[rnajecki]

Hy-Tran question: The WF Operator's Manual says to change the Hy-Tran oil filter every 100 hours and periodically check the oil level. But how often should you open the case cover and change the fluid? With every oil filter change? Every other filter change? Every 10 years? I put about 100 hours on each of my CC's a year.

Every time I adopt a WF I change the filters and fluids, and from the appearance of the old Hy-Tran it seems I'm doing the first change since the 1970's. But from that point I'm at a loss to know when to do another Hy-Tran fluid change.

Thanks,
Roy in R.I.

 

[stanner]

rich p

here is the article. this page is the other FAQ site. check out FAQ 55 and 55a
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

 

[bmoore]

Last weekend while mowing with the 125, the engine coughed, sputtered, and died while at full throttle after about 10-15 minutes. Fuel level was okay, vent cap was good. Disengage the PTO, start again, runs fine. Engage PTO, throttle up, engine dies again in a few minutes. Managed to finish mowing by setting the throttle to about 1/4 and going really slow. Lawn looked awful.
This weekend, I decided it wasn't getting a strong enough spark (or way too much fuel, or both) due to the coloring of the spark plug electrodes. Carb adjustments were good. Pulled the condenser off another formerly great-running engine needing to be rebuilt (remember the connecting rod picture from a couple of weeks ago?), and put it on the 125 after cleaning up all terminals, etc. Cheapest part, easiest to change. Fired up quicker, and ran at full throttle for the entire mowing job. Grass looks much better being cut at full throttle again.
Life is good.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bruce, my #1 125 did the same thing many years ago and my fix was the same as yours, a new (or in your case a different) condensor.

 

[bmoore]

Does anyone on here live in or near Newport, Rhode Island?

 

[mbrooks]

I need some help (info) on my mower deck. I have a 1968 Cub 124. It had a 42" mower deck on it but I found a 48" deck at a junk yard which I installed on the Cub. Initially, the deck worked fine but now all three blades have a "wobble" in them. The bearings are good. Can anyone supply me with information on where to obtain a schematic for this deck showing how the spindles are supposed to be put together? Also, does anyone know of a website that I can go to for parts? Since I have nothing to compare to, I can't tell if the spindles are worn out or what. I would appreciate any advice. The deck is made by International and the ID plate is in bad shape but the model number looks like U-1111.

 

[kmcconaughey]

48" deck spindles:

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don't know if this applies to the 48" deck spindles as this post and response concerns the 44" deck but I might as well post it anyway just in case. Anywhoooo, from the archives:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted By David Berkstresser (Dberkstresser) on Tuesday, June 24, 2003.

Hi everyone,

I have been reading this forum for about a year. Up until now I have not had a question about my 1650 that I could not answer using my CC manuals. I purchased a used/abused '76 1650 about a year ago. I brought it back from the dead, and have lavished mucho funds on it. My current difficulty is with the 44A mower deck. When I removed the deck and tried to wiggle the mower blades there was a LOT of play, so I fugured my spindles were shot. I got the spindles apart only to find there is virtually no play in the bearing at all, but there is a 1/8 inch gap between the ends of the bearing and the bearing cups, which I assume are supposed to be tight to keep the bearing and spindle tight. Can anybody tell me what might be going on? Thanks guys, I sure enjoy your chats.

This answer was posted By Hydro Harry [aka Elder Harry] (Hbursell) on Tuesday, June 24, 2003

Dave B - I suppose you already ran out and bought the new upper cup flanges by now, but I'll give you my fix anyway - I've only ever had to swap a few of the upper and lower flange cups and that was because the hole for the bearing shaft was oval'ed. Usually the flange around the cups swells from the pressure of using the blades (I guess). My fix is taking a hammer to em. Really. Put the cup flanges on a flat surface and see if they are truely flat all the way around the flange (where the bolt holes are). Use the hammer to flatten the flange, then put the 2 flanges together and see if they match each other flat together - if not, beat on them some more. Once you get them good and flat, then insert the bearing and see if it fits nice and tight - should be unless the holes for the bearing are oval'ed as I mentioned. If they fit good then re-install, grease'm up and you should be good for another 10 years of service, before you have to do the same thing again.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here are photos of Mo's deck and spindles, can anyone help him out? Here's some of what he wrote me in his email:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

The holes in the spindle cups do not fit tightly over the bearing shaft. There is approximately an 1/8 inch play between the holes and the shaft on both ends. Since I do not have a new set of cups to compare with, I don't know if this is normal or not, but I suspect this is the cause of the "wobble". You can see how much oversized the holes are in one of the pics.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Here's the exploded view of the version deck that he has:

 

[digger]

GRRRRR!

(Message edited by Cproctor on May 31, 2006)