Archive through May 24, 2010

[jbaker]

James I must ask when running what voltage do you have going to the battery I believe you should have 13 to 14 volts if the charging system is working.

Matt G what do you think about the wire grounding and taking out a coil?

 

[jott]

if you bought a brand new battery and its dead already, the alternator or something has to be sucking the juice out of it. i had the problem with my 124. new battery, amp gauge said it was charging but I went to start it the next day and it was dead. i switched a generator from a different tractor and didnt have any more problems

 

[jmolaski]

Josh

Nothing seems to "sucking" any juice out. One charge will last quite a few starts over a week or so. Just doesn't seem to "receiving" the charge.

Jeff

That's exactly what I am getting - about 14 volts on the gauge.}

 

[jott]

ok..well then i dont know what it could be.

 

[kweaver]

James - Take the time to make a little test.
Make (if you don't already have one) a test light with a couple of wires and a tail light bulb.

Take off the positive battery cable and put one test wire lead on the cable and the other on the battery terminal.
With the key off the light should not be lit.

If it is then you have a short. It could be a bad switch or a wire rubbed on an edge.

 

[kweaver]

Melvin - A resistor coil or not will not burn out the coil, it will burn out the points however with out the resistor coil. Points want 6-9v which is what the resistor cuts it down to.

Hooking the pos. & neg. wires backwards wont burn out a coil either but they still don't like it. Check to see that you have them correct. The neg side goes to the points and condensor. Pos side to the switch.

 

[jmolaski]

KentuckyKen

Thanks for the tip. Running to town for a few errands - I'll pick up a bulb while I am there. Thanks!

 

[dtanner]

 

[kide]

James and Kentuck:
Since this uses a stator/solid state regulator charging system, I'm betting that the regulator/diode pack has a bad diode in it. It'll charge, but the "leaky leg" of the diode cluster will discharge the batter when not running..

 

[lfcurtis]

guys I'm new to cubs I bought 4 at a sale they are a 100 with deck running,123 and 125 in pieces and a 149 with 50" or larger deck, snow blade, and tiller running. i stripped and cleaned the 149, painted it and cannot figure out this,,,, under the steering wheel it has a hole and says forward and reverse but this machine moves both bu the right pedal serial # u468686 is on gear housing like this a whole lot better than the green thing I'm selling thanks in advance Lanny

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lanny, WELCOME!

Nothing like jumping in with both feet.

Sounds like a previous owner modified the hydro control to a foot operated control. There should have been a hand operated hydro control located on the dash, the same style as would be on the 125. Here's what it would have looked like, item #3 in the photo below.

 

[fcurrier]

Lonny: Welcome!

Sounds like you got a 149 that someone converted to right foot hydro drive. That's a bunch of Cubs to get started with!! Don't be a stranger!

 

[lfcurtis]

so can I take the lever and linkage off the 125 and put it on the 149 without to much trouble? this pedal has a short move for reverse and forward is about 6" of pushing. I'm going to keep the 149 and get rid of the rest i think

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lanny, well, not exactly. While the lever itself is the same, the parts under the dash and the linkages are all different. If you click on the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup button above, you can enter in the model number and get access to exploded parts drawings. You can compare the 125 and 149 and see the differences in parts. Any chance you could take a bunch of photos of the foot control pedal and linkages? Some of us kind of like stuff like that. Also it might be possible to do some adjusting to get a better control with the foot control rather than tossing the entire setup.

 

[lfcurtis]

sure I'll take pictures tonite and get them up on here also the release lever is missing and lookin at the other hydro units i can't find what it is supposed to push on

 

[lfcurtis]

it says upload is bigger than 100 kb pics are 500 kb each

 

[tstewart]

Ok let me make sure I got this correct now. For the tiller I need straight pulleys, and since no one answered with any sources and the sponsors dont seem to carry them I take it I wont be able to just swap the pulleys I'll need the whole front drive. So I need to get a wide frame mule drive from anything other than a 44/50 deck correct? It was only the 44/50's that had the twisted ones right? Or - upon some more searching today I've read that folks have 'flattened out' the twisted pulleys? So to be SPECIFIC I need another 44/50 mule drive I can flatten with a BFH or a mule for what, a 38/42/48 right? Is there anything else I have forgotten or not understood correctly?

 

[mgonitzke]

Tristan-

Yep, you got it.

Gerry/James/KentuckyKEN-

If it's not running, and the ignition switch is off, there should be no continuity from the battery to the alternator wire. If there was, I think the battery would discharge eventually anyway, as no diode is "perfect". It'll be interesting to see what the result of the lightbulb test is. Here's a dumb question: is the ammeter wired bassackwards?

The other thing I've thought of is that I've had a couple of tractors with non-functional charging systems, and you can go a LONG time without recharging the battery. If it's needing to be charged frequently, something's probably shorted or otherwise drawing current it shouldn't be.

 

[rnajecki]

I've got a mower deck identification question. Today I removed the blades (two 16", one 18") from the deck to sharpen them. Obviously I figure this is a 48" deck. So I turn to my CPE-2 equipment parts catalog to note which deck I have. For years I thought I had the deck on page B-35 but now it doesn't make sense.

My deck has a cast iron nose, half round runners, and no signs of having gauge wheels.

What confuses me is the parts diagram shows <u>each</u> spindle has a lower spindle housing (part 31). I presume this is the ribbed cast aluminum part shown on my photo of the outer spindle. However my center spindle doesn't have this housing. My photos show the spindles as they look when I took the blades off, then when I pull the cup or spacer nearly off the spindle.

center spindle on left, outer spindle on right

center spindle with cup and spacer nearly off spindle

outer spindle with cup nearly off spindle

 

[kide]

Matt:
I didn't trace it correctly...On regular alternators w/diode pack, they ARE connected to the battery directly.. Good diodes don't leak enough to register...If we talk about PO miswiring, anything's possible...

KentucK:
Before you start nagging again, probably tonight.... We'll see how it matches up to the great stuff Matt's been doing

BTW -Matt - have you run into any automatic posting limits as to number of pics or amount of text??