Archive through May 24, 2009

[rpalmer]

Donald Tanner,

Yes that's what I'm holding there. Thanks for the picture on your mod. Is that brake style pto of your making? I just have the "arm" off the rockshaft and that holds the button. I was thinking that I might just use some J.B. Weld on that bushing. But now I have another way of looking at it. Thanks Don.

 

[rpalmer]

I need to get some pluming for my sediment bowl/carburetors. Can someone tell me the size of the brass fittings on both and also the size of the steel line? I'm just trying to get out of walking into the hardware store with a hand full of pieces and telling the poor guy there "this is what I need." Kohler carb, OEM sediment bowl. TIA

Don I saw your plowing. I thought it looked pretty good. And the soil didn't look very moist. I have yet to plow. But I'm gonna someday.

 

[ncostello]

I took my 122's 48" "sheet metal" deck apart for some repairs and paint. Upon reassembly...I noticed that the two outer pulley diameters are slightly different. And further, different than the center. The three vary about 1/2" OD from one to the next. Any reason for this? None of the other sheet metal decks I have are like this. Plus...I faild to notice whether the smallest installs right or left on the deck.

. I'm guessing the left is the small one so it can spin faster since it has to "throw" the grass the furthest.

 

[rhickey]

Don T
You may have trouble getting the extended sump past that bolt.

The pin backed out of my 128, broke the front out of the axle mount and I drove over the axle, at speed, fun day !
I had to weld a nut on the sump side and grind it thinner for clearance and put a bolt through from the front, shortened to clear the sump also.
Add axle, tighten to take the play out, has worked for years.

 

[rpalmer]

Good morning all.

Looks like a nice day brewing. I'm planning on doing my fuel pluming since thats all I can afford right now.
I actually slept for 9 hours instead of 5. Must have been all that driving

.

Robert Hickey,
Thanks for the heads up.

 

[dtanner]

Morning all, I`am wanting to chage the wiring harness in my 147 this fine morning ( have new ) and well CAN this be done without tacking out the engine in the Cub ??? thanks Don T

 

[rpalmer]

Donald Tanner,

It sure can be changed without taking out the engine. I changed the wiring harness in my 129 and have looked over my other tractors. No problem. Just hook her up, make sure every thing is where it should be then tighten the hold down clamps. My tractor is minus the safety switches so I had to remember to make a jumper. All in all a piece of cake.

 

[dtanner]

Thanks Richard P , i`am elbows deep in it right now.Jumpers again thanks .. Later Don T

 

[rpalmer]

Don,

I made my jumper from a paper clip. It can be easily removed when I get around to buying switches.

Have fun.

 

[dclinansmith]

Shawn H. The bolt size you asked about for the new hydraulic control lever is 5/16"dia. I don't remember the length but that is easy to figure out. The bolt doesn't go thru the shaft it is just installed on the new lever and basically just squeezes the lever on the shaft.

 

[covrebo]

Good morning everyone. A big thanks to all of you that have served in the armed forces.

I've been tearing down a 129 the past couple of weeks in my first Cub Cadet project. Motor had no compression and thought it was a broken rod but it turns out this model was equiped with a "2-piece" piston (see picture below). Looks like there was no damage to the cylinder wall. Does anyone know a good machine shop near Owatonna, MN that I could take the block and head for measurements and work. I think the head is warped and I want to see if the cylinder needs to be bored out before ordering a new piston and rebuilding kit. While I'm waiting for parts I thought I would clean up and repaint some of the heat shields/baffles that have started to rust. Can I use spray paint on them or does the motor get too hot for that? This has been a great project and I am afraid it might not be my last...

Thanks.

CO

 

[digger]

Just a note to everyone that today is a SPECIAL day in the hearts and minds of many out there, so lets not just let it slide by with an occasional Happy Memorial Day greeting now and then to those you see and meet along the way.
It's a lot more than just a day off!

 

[mstetar]

will ATF work in my 109 trani, the PO drained it (for cleaning im assuming) and i dont want to run the motor with it empty, do i have to get Hy-Train or will the ATF work?

 

[bnolte]

Chris,
The main part of the block tends to become discolored around the cooling fins and the heat shield for the muffler, but the lower parts of the block and the air shroud, air cleaner and so on hold their color pretty well. I would go ahead and paint it, but since paint tends to insulate things, I would avoid painting the cylinder head or cooling fins. I wouldn't paint the block until the engine is back from the machine shop and at least buttoned up, and I would mask off the crankshaft and cylinder head. Most of the other tins I would paint separately as well. A spray bomb will work, but you get more for your money paint wise and better results using an air sprayer.

 

[kide]

Matt:
Hytran and it's replacements are not ATF, they're a hydraulic system oil with different properties..

 

[mstetar]

so if i put ATF in it would probabily mess up the trani

 

[kide]

I don't know - I don't put the wrong fluids in any of the equipment that I own...

 

[mstetar]

well does NAPA sell a nock off, because i dont even know where the nearest IH dealer is?

 

[kide]

Matt:
You have a TSC store in FOLLANSBEE,WV - should be less than a half hour drive. They may not sell Hytran, but they've at least got a decent substitute. BTW - I found that store in less than three minutes using Google

Good luck.....

 

[jdiem]

CO I have seen a lot of piston damage but have never seen one break like that.