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Archive through May 21, 2014
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Ya Trent - you get the 1st post to the page award - but it should be zapped since you didn't say anything IHCC related.
The head torque specs are listed in Charlie's FAQ No. 16 which shows 25-30 ft/lbs. Make sure you follow the bolting sequence as well. I'd say to start off about about 15-20 ft/lbs. using the correct sequence shown they up it 5 ft/lbs then up to the final. Figure out some method to run the engine without the tin cover over the head for about 20 minutes, let it cool 30 minutes and re-torque the bolts to final torque (I'd say 28-30 ft/lbs). Finish re=installing your tin work and you should be good to go for the head. You can decide on the water treatment at that point. I think Dennis still recommends it because you really can't get everything off the side walls.
Dennis - I should have posted earlier to that I agree with you about the 70/100. To me they are the real Classic units. That 70 is gone to a new good home - but my son still has a 100 for me, nicely equiped with fenders, headlights, Creeper, 10.5 Ags, and a good running 10hp Kohler. Now that is a fun machine.
Jeff - sorry but the 70/100 is such a real Classic design, and they didn't make'm in a wide frame. Keep your nickels handy tho.
Shultzie - looking good on that 782. Nice work there.
The head torque specs are listed in Charlie's FAQ No. 16 which shows 25-30 ft/lbs. Make sure you follow the bolting sequence as well. I'd say to start off about about 15-20 ft/lbs. using the correct sequence shown they up it 5 ft/lbs then up to the final. Figure out some method to run the engine without the tin cover over the head for about 20 minutes, let it cool 30 minutes and re-torque the bolts to final torque (I'd say 28-30 ft/lbs). Finish re=installing your tin work and you should be good to go for the head. You can decide on the water treatment at that point. I think Dennis still recommends it because you really can't get everything off the side walls.
Dennis - I should have posted earlier to that I agree with you about the 70/100. To me they are the real Classic units. That 70 is gone to a new good home - but my son still has a 100 for me, nicely equiped with fenders, headlights, Creeper, 10.5 Ags, and a good running 10hp Kohler. Now that is a fun machine.
Jeff - sorry but the 70/100 is such a real Classic design, and they didn't make'm in a wide frame. Keep your nickels handy tho.
Shultzie - looking good on that 782. Nice work there.
jlspicer
Well-known member
Steve,
Did ya hit the dealer up by me? If so, you've gotta coax the guys some to find the right stuff. If you ask any of today's parts guys at dealerships, everything would be a fire hazard.
I would just hop over the CC specialties and either order a new sediment bowl assembly or gasket. Where's it leaking from? Where it screws into the tank, the bowl, or the fuel line coming out?
Did ya hit the dealer up by me? If so, you've gotta coax the guys some to find the right stuff. If you ask any of today's parts guys at dealerships, everything would be a fire hazard.
Technically no I did not. But Cub Cadets are cool and so that being said cool is Cub Cadets. In a round about way I said Cub Cadet! LOL
OK. I'll try to check that stuff out more often. Far as replacing the mounts go, I have seen an upgrade to the engine cradles. It essentially consists of welding a piece of flat steel in the middle tieing the two pieces together. How does this help? I had planned on doing this as well.
OK. I'll try to check that stuff out more often. Far as replacing the mounts go, I have seen an upgrade to the engine cradles. It essentially consists of welding a piece of flat steel in the middle tieing the two pieces together. How does this help? I had planned on doing this as well.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Trent - ok, we'll let you slide on the 1st posting but you gotta get started on reading Charlie's FAQ's. I'm wondering if you found the link yet. At the top of this page is the Purple colored letters that is the link to the Cub Cadet FAQ of which there are a total of 29. At the top of the Cub Cadet FAQ page is the following:
Question not answered here? Check out Charlie's FAQ at cubfaq.com
Click on it and it links you to Charlie's 97 FAQ's. You need to read thru No. 23 which describes the issues and benefits of the cradle modification. Basically the engine shakes side to side with the independent iso bars, and by welding a cross link between them it provides more stability for less shaking, longer iso-mount life and less stress on the engine mount bolts. You should realize a noticeable difference in side to side shaking of your 1450 - although some others on here have had issue with the hardness of the replacement mounts and break-in period. If you can come up with new original ISO-mounts, or even used ones in fairly good condition, these will likely give you the best results. But also realize it's hard to wait till you remove your engine to determine the condition of your current mounts (i.e., are they good, fair, poor or shot?). Usually the upper mounts from both sides are likely to be good, and sometimes 1 or both lower mounts from the right side may still be good. You'll have to inspect them to see. The more hp the engine the less likely they will be good (i.e. 10hp hardly shakes or wears the mounts, 16hp shakes the most and will likely be worn out if still original).
Question not answered here? Check out Charlie's FAQ at cubfaq.com
Click on it and it links you to Charlie's 97 FAQ's. You need to read thru No. 23 which describes the issues and benefits of the cradle modification. Basically the engine shakes side to side with the independent iso bars, and by welding a cross link between them it provides more stability for less shaking, longer iso-mount life and less stress on the engine mount bolts. You should realize a noticeable difference in side to side shaking of your 1450 - although some others on here have had issue with the hardness of the replacement mounts and break-in period. If you can come up with new original ISO-mounts, or even used ones in fairly good condition, these will likely give you the best results. But also realize it's hard to wait till you remove your engine to determine the condition of your current mounts (i.e., are they good, fair, poor or shot?). Usually the upper mounts from both sides are likely to be good, and sometimes 1 or both lower mounts from the right side may still be good. You'll have to inspect them to see. The more hp the engine the less likely they will be good (i.e. 10hp hardly shakes or wears the mounts, 16hp shakes the most and will likely be worn out if still original).
Steve, I always install a new sediment assembly on a repaint. I can still get the gasket and screen from work for a few bucks apiece. Really it would depnd on what kind of restore im doing on which one I HAD to go with.
Josh S--Yes, they're always friendly and usually very helpful; I go there a lot. They found an after market sediment bulb assembly I could have ordered... but I was in a hurry and would have had to wait for it. I just thought it interesting that it wasn't considered a standard replacement item.
John B--My thought was to replace the entire unit. Is replacing the gasket and screen usually sufficient when they leak? I had an old one we tried to resurrect but it leaked too...couldn't seem to get it tight enough.
John B--My thought was to replace the entire unit. Is replacing the gasket and screen usually sufficient when they leak? I had an old one we tried to resurrect but it leaked too...couldn't seem to get it tight enough.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
I think Tom is spot-on concerning the value of the sediment bowl, but the fact is that the in-tank filter works better; it has a finer screen. As I recall, the sediment bowl came stock on earlier narrow-frame models and was replaced by the in-tank screen fitting by the time the wide frames came out. At least that is what the Correct Police told me when I tried to replace the sediment bowl I found installed on my 149 when it came into my possession. The in-tank screen also takes up much less space. However, like Tom, I still like to "see my fuel" flowing through the sediment bowl.
Finally, as I've discovered, gravity-fed fuel systems don't admit too much filtering before the fuel doesn't flow at all.
Finally, as I've discovered, gravity-fed fuel systems don't admit too much filtering before the fuel doesn't flow at all.
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
Dave S, looks like your question got jumped. I would take your old bolts with you to find a proper replacement with similar shoulder and head size. But other than that, there is nothing special about those bolts.
As for 2 blown gaskets, I'd say the top of your block is warped. So resurfacing just the head, it can no longer seal right. So you'll like have the same problem with a new head too. Have you ever done the "sand paper and piece of glass trick" to surface s head? If so, you can kind of reverse it to see if your block is uneven.
As for 2 blown gaskets, I'd say the top of your block is warped. So resurfacing just the head, it can no longer seal right. So you'll like have the same problem with a new head too. Have you ever done the "sand paper and piece of glass trick" to surface s head? If so, you can kind of reverse it to see if your block is uneven.
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- Binder 1650
I got rid of the sediment bowl on my 126 in favor of an inline filter. Just my preference - pretty no hassle replacement for a worker.
If I were doing a collector/100 point resto, I'd do whatever it takes to make the fuel bowl work.
However on the camp mower - only so many hours before the sun sets, so out with the sediment bowl and in with an inline filter.
126 update: Might fab-up a new wiring harness for the tractor over the holiday weekend if time permits. Looks simple enough.
If I were doing a collector/100 point resto, I'd do whatever it takes to make the fuel bowl work.
However on the camp mower - only so many hours before the sun sets, so out with the sediment bowl and in with an inline filter.
126 update: Might fab-up a new wiring harness for the tractor over the holiday weekend if time permits. Looks simple enough.
Dave S.
Head bolts should be at least grade 8 or better, but I don’t mean grade 9. I am referring to an ARP head bolt. I use NEW grade 8 bolts anytime I reinstall a small engine head and never used bolts. I have in the past reused washers if they are not deformed, but I prefer to use a new.
Did you re-torque the head bolts after a 15 minute run and cool down? The Kohler service manual covers how to check for head and/or cylinder warp
Info on head bolts:
http://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/SB2165%20-%20CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STRETCH%20BOLTS.pdf
Jim
Head bolts should be at least grade 8 or better, but I don’t mean grade 9. I am referring to an ARP head bolt. I use NEW grade 8 bolts anytime I reinstall a small engine head and never used bolts. I have in the past reused washers if they are not deformed, but I prefer to use a new.
Did you re-torque the head bolts after a 15 minute run and cool down? The Kohler service manual covers how to check for head and/or cylinder warp
Info on head bolts:
http://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/SB2165%20-%20CYLINDER%20HEAD%20STRETCH%20BOLTS.pdf
Jim
If anything, the sediment bowl setups are a little less expensive...somewhere around 12 dollars, I believe. I guess I prefer them, too, in the interest of being correct...just need to pick up one or two next time I see replacements at a show, or whatever. What I got was around 15, plus the extra female end for making installation easier) and tax. In total, right at 20 bucks.
I prefer the sediment bulbs on mine, due to what Tom said...you can see what is coming out of the tank and the fuel. Ive replaced several on the older models and I think they were in the 12-15 dollar range. But, if I get a tractor that has been changed over and it works I usually leave it alone.
I can't see sediment bowls being a fire hazard, unless they are poring out leaked fuel while the engine is running. If the fuel runs down the glass bowl, your annular gasket is installed wrong, or needs to be replaced. If it leaks from the shutoff valve, most likely the rubber packing around the shut-off valve stem is bad. Most of the new sediment bowls are made in China, and are mostly junk. If you can't get an older bowl and rebuild it, get one from a place like Steiner Tractor and play with the plumbing to get it to fit.
For the shut-off stem packing, and for the two ends of the bowl-to-carb pipe, go to an auto store and see what they have in rubber hose. Get a piece that the hose ID fits the OD of the fuel pipe and the OD of the shut-off valve stem (should be snug), cut the length to fit with a razor blade (may take a few tmes to get it right, and be sure to cut it a square as you can), and if the O. D. is anywhere close, jam it in. A little silicon spray helps here. This should fix the leaks. Then, remember to shut the fuel off when you store the tractor.
For the shut-off stem packing, and for the two ends of the bowl-to-carb pipe, go to an auto store and see what they have in rubber hose. Get a piece that the hose ID fits the OD of the fuel pipe and the OD of the shut-off valve stem (should be snug), cut the length to fit with a razor blade (may take a few tmes to get it right, and be sure to cut it a square as you can), and if the O. D. is anywhere close, jam it in. A little silicon spray helps here. This should fix the leaks. Then, remember to shut the fuel off when you store the tractor.
Head bolts: Get the proper Grade 8 bolts, and remember that on most K-series Kohlers, there are two lengths....check the specs., and remember which holes the shorties and the long ones came from. Chase the female threads in the block with the correct tap, and blow the holes out. Be sure your head isn't warped and if it is, have it shaved (kissed), or plane it on a flat surface with #180 grit paper until the mating surface is equally frosted.
Now, if you have been having head bolts loosen (such as the front two or three), drill a .060" hole through the bolt heads. Use a new head gasket. Install them with good flat washers under the heads, and torque to spec. Run the engine 30 minutes and let it cool an hour or more. Retorque all the bolts....they may or may not tighten up a bit. Now, use .040" stainless safety wire and lockwire the bolts 2 by 2. Use safety wire pliers, or duckbills, and get that wire tight! Not sure how? Check "FAA Regulatory Guidance Library" on Google, and click on Advisory Circulars. Then find AC 43.13-1A, and you will find a picture of a proper wire job.
Now, if you have been having head bolts loosen (such as the front two or three), drill a .060" hole through the bolt heads. Use a new head gasket. Install them with good flat washers under the heads, and torque to spec. Run the engine 30 minutes and let it cool an hour or more. Retorque all the bolts....they may or may not tighten up a bit. Now, use .040" stainless safety wire and lockwire the bolts 2 by 2. Use safety wire pliers, or duckbills, and get that wire tight! Not sure how? Check "FAA Regulatory Guidance Library" on Google, and click on Advisory Circulars. Then find AC 43.13-1A, and you will find a picture of a proper wire job.
J
jclazar
Guest
I have always kept the sediment bowl clean, starting at the beginning of the season, and at the end of the season, time and time again! I prefer a sediment bowl, but like on my 1450, it rattles so much and space is limited a inline filter is just right! Problem with the fuel strainer in my 1450, it is a job to clean out.
side note: Keeping a mindful watch at Charlie's FAQ #'s 33a, and 33b. Cleaning that area of the 1450 this sunny afternoon! The FAQ's of this site are just great! Most/some of the time's I can figure out what and how to fix a problem with out a million and 1 different opinions
side note: Keeping a mindful watch at Charlie's FAQ #'s 33a, and 33b. Cleaning that area of the 1450 this sunny afternoon! The FAQ's of this site are just great! Most/some of the time's I can figure out what and how to fix a problem with out a million and 1 different opinions
