Archive through May 19, 2015

[jpatchett]

Mike C.

I use rattle can rustoleum in Navajo white (off white). This is close enough for me to use on implements that are for use and not show.

It is getting harder to find in local stores, had to order on-line by the case. It might be discontinued, EDIT nope just checked their website still listed on color chart.

Jim

 

[mconway]

i just got a quart of rustoleum white...close enough to mow with...

 

[cearles]

CC 126 Clutch Disk Repair

I need to replace the Fiber Clutch Disk on my 126. Will Jim Steele’s instructions for a E-Z Clutch Fix work for me? Do I really need to Drive out the spiral pins holding the clutch plates to the drive shaft? And it looks like the front engine mount bolts are just above the front axle making them impossible to remove unless you remove the axle?

 

[sblunier]

Cletus,

9/16" "Gear Wrench" ratcheting box end will get the front engine bolts out without any trouble (jack up one side of the front axle at a time for more clearance).

I have always found it easier to just get the engine out of the way so there is room to work.

Yes, you will need to remove some spirol pins, no way to get the disk off otherwise.

With the plates off, consider resurfacing them to remove old glazing and score marks.

While you are there, replace the teaser spring and throw out bearing, and if the shaft is all eaten up, replace it too......not a job to do more than once every 20+ years IF you do it all the way the first time.

When going back together, make sure you clean up/grease the pilot bushing...it will make shifting MUCH easier if it isn;t dragging the shaft with the clutch pushed in.

 

[wshytle]

Tom F. stated that he couldn't move the shift lever into reverse...it was just stuck. I'm confused here as to why the relief valves are considered the culprit. It sounds like the brake pedal is locked down which freezes the shifter or something similar has happened???

Just curious...

.

 

[dwilkinson]

Armour Coat rust paint in Recreation (RV) white is a very good substitute for the IH white.

 

[nbextermueller]

Why would the drive plate spiral pins need to be removed to change a clutch disk? It is literally floating them. Pull the 4 engine bolts, slide the engine forward and the drive shaft will literally fall right off the drive pins. Then just slide the clutch disk off.

What am I missing? With the clutch petal depressed and locked, you don't even have to deal with the clutch spring.

 

[jchamberlin]

Wayne Shytle, you bring up a good point which perhaps only Tom can clear up.

To summarize the discussion to date, on the previous page, on Monday May 18, 2015 at 10:31 pm, Tom Flynn posted:

<<I started my 125 Hydro today from winter storage and tried to put the shift lever into reverse..... it wouldn't move either way, it's just stuck. For some reason the wheels are free-wheeling and the release lever moves up and down without any resistance. I have no Idea how that Release lever is suppose to work. What's the fix to getting it into F/R? The grass is getting pretty long.>> (emphasis added)

At 11:39 pm Tom posted a comment to his own question:

<<I did look in the Archives and (Wvogel)on July 26, 2007 at 8:54 had the same problem. What are the release buttons?
And it sounded like lube was all that was needed to fix it?????? Also sounds like to engage Release just pull it up with engine running and brake is off???>>

Marlin Homrighausen responded with a method to free up the hydro release valves, namely, to spray them with good penetrant. A method confirmed by Josh Spicer.

From Tom's description the "it" of "it's stuck" is a bit ambiguous; I'm not sure if the shifter is stuck (as in frozen), or that the tractor itself is "stuck" as in not moving either forward or reverse.

Since Tom mentions "free wheeling and brake released" so I'm assuming that the later is true, that is, that the tractor isn't moving, but that the shifter is.

Tom would be the best source to clear up the situation, Tom Flynn, what are we looking at?

 

[tflynn]

I got it working. As suggested I removed the fenders and squirted PB Blaster on the two valves sticking up. Used the right side lever and worked the fluid down into it. Also sprayed it in the linkage. I pulled on the shifter arm and got it moving just a little bit. Then left for half an hour to soak. Came back and got the shifting arm to move all the way, more spray, more wait, then it worked. Mowed the acre with fenders off, everything worked great. Thank you everyone for your help.

 

[dschwandt]

NIc, Nic...You need to compress the clutch pressure spring in order to remove the front spirol pin that holds the front drive plate to get at the fiber clutch disc.

I always just remove the whole ass'ly and clamp it in a vise w/aluminum spacers on each jaw and follow the FSM for disassembly and re-ass'ly.

 

[tflynn]

After mowing I decided to power wash it before putting fenders back on, then drove it into the barn. After moving it I found a flat spring clip 3 1/8" long by 1/4" high on the ground.... is this something that goes on my 125?

Another thing... there's oil leaking from where the governor rod assembly goes into the block and drips on the points cover. Is there an easy fix for this?

 

[sblunier]

Nic,

Front stub of the drive shaft is a slip fit into the pilot bushing on the drive cup, then the front pressure plate in pinned solid with a 1/4" spirol to the driveshaft, then the clutch disk (which is a hollow ring and has the drive shaft running through the middle of it), then comes the rear pressure plate which floats in a slot on a spirol.

Clutch disk won't come off the front because it's trapped by the front pressure plate (pinned to drive shaft) and won't just drop out the side because the drive shaft runs through it.

So, you have to compress the spring and remove the front pressure plate to access the disk. And if you go that far, you might as well not stop there because you are most of the way into a job that sucks.....and......if the disk is shot $ to donuts so is the teaser spring, T/O bearing, and likely the shaft near the T/O and teaser (all grooved up from the spring running on it).

 

[jharder]

I was just looking threw the FAQs and didn't find my answer. I need to know the length of the belt that goes from the 90 degree gear box to a 2A tiller. Thanks Jim

 

[jbaker]

Jim
this "should" be it
15/32x53

 

[nbextermueller]

Thanks guys, I guess I need to get off the 782 and OT 2072 and knock the spider webs off the 128.

I completely forgot about the front pin.

 

[digger]

Jim H.
You gotta remember, we have 2 FAQ's.
I really should integrate the 2 one of these days.

http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

 

[dschwandt]

Tom Flynn....New governor rod and new bushing is the answer. I replace 'em both in a rebuild to hopefully avoid that issue.

Maybe the bushing could be knurled?? I Don't know.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom F., I do not recognize that spring clip as anything that would be from a 125. Not sure what it could be from.

 

[kide]

I don't recognize that clip either, obviously it's normally a "U" shape. I can almost see it in my mind though, like a carb float bowl on a Briggs??

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gerry, you could be on to something. I was thinking it looked a bit like the clip on the glass sediment bowl but it doesn't have the screw. Also, you would know real quick if you lost it...