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Archive through May 18, 2009
- Thread starter fcurrier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Mike M.
Quick answer. Without
Quick answer. Without
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kendell-
I can't imagine it works too well. I hope the skin is at least in good shape, because it looks like the spindles and everything else has been changed.
I can't imagine it works too well. I hope the skin is at least in good shape, because it looks like the spindles and everything else has been changed.
Frank C. - Flywheel size is engine specific, not tractor model specific. 10 & 12 hp get small flywheels & blower hsg's, 14 & 16 hp Kohlers get big flywheels & blower hsg's. But I agree, a Quietline engine does have issues fitting into a narrow frame.
MIKE M. - To add to what Charlie said, lights & fenders were options on all CC's until the 102/122/123. And they were still options on all the 7 hp Cubbies, they were standard on the 8 hp, 86 & 800 models.
MIKE M. - To add to what Charlie said, lights & fenders were options on all CC's until the 102/122/123. And they were still options on all the 7 hp Cubbies, they were standard on the 8 hp, 86 & 800 models.
lkortkamp
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Larry
New tractor update....
Well, since the weather has broke and the grass is growing like wildfire I've been thru a few tanks of fuel in my new acquisition(72 149).
First off, I LOVE MY CUB!!! (I hated my old cheapie tractor). Second: I like the hydro, but almost would be better off with manual tranny as the hydro control is kinda funky being under the steering wheel and makes for difficulty controlling speed and changing directions alot. I'm getting used to it though. I used to use a friends older JD hydro growing up and the controls were on opposite sides of IH so sometimes I find I grab the wrong handle sometimes out of old habit. The strange thing is a cars direction is controlled by your right hand(shift lever), so the tractor being on the left seems really odd. The other thing was the JD had a gated control handle so it was a positive shift from F to R. The CUB is kinda "feel" neutral. I don't use the brake pedal as it's kinda hard to be smooth with it.
I noticed it seemed to be cutting off kilter a touch and the yard looked like a sawblade as you looked across it. I know it has been mentioned to level the deck and carefully check the mounting framework. I did some checking Sunday morning before starting to mow. It did look like it was low on the left side so I poked around. After looking at the rear mount I realized the previous owner shimmed the mount UP with washers(thus lowering the rear of deck by over 1/2"). Huh? Why? I removed the washer and reattached the mount. Now the deck looks level and after mowing, the yard looks alot more straight/level between the cut strips.
I've gotten used to now washing mower(removing all dirt on tires and grass on deck), and cleaning out bottom of deck before returning to shed. It's my pride and joy and want to make it look as well as it works.
Well, since the weather has broke and the grass is growing like wildfire I've been thru a few tanks of fuel in my new acquisition(72 149).
First off, I LOVE MY CUB!!! (I hated my old cheapie tractor). Second: I like the hydro, but almost would be better off with manual tranny as the hydro control is kinda funky being under the steering wheel and makes for difficulty controlling speed and changing directions alot. I'm getting used to it though. I used to use a friends older JD hydro growing up and the controls were on opposite sides of IH so sometimes I find I grab the wrong handle sometimes out of old habit. The strange thing is a cars direction is controlled by your right hand(shift lever), so the tractor being on the left seems really odd. The other thing was the JD had a gated control handle so it was a positive shift from F to R. The CUB is kinda "feel" neutral. I don't use the brake pedal as it's kinda hard to be smooth with it.
I noticed it seemed to be cutting off kilter a touch and the yard looked like a sawblade as you looked across it. I know it has been mentioned to level the deck and carefully check the mounting framework. I did some checking Sunday morning before starting to mow. It did look like it was low on the left side so I poked around. After looking at the rear mount I realized the previous owner shimmed the mount UP with washers(thus lowering the rear of deck by over 1/2"). Huh? Why? I removed the washer and reattached the mount. Now the deck looks level and after mowing, the yard looks alot more straight/level between the cut strips.
I've gotten used to now washing mower(removing all dirt on tires and grass on deck), and cleaning out bottom of deck before returning to shed. It's my pride and joy and want to make it look as well as it works.
LARRY - Welcome to the forum, glad You like Your 149. Word of extreme caution about Your Cub Cadet & washing. Blowing it off with a leaf blower or compressed air is MUCH better than using water. If Your getting a lot of accumulated grass on the underside of the deck you may be mowing when it's too wet. Bad for Your mower and bad for the grass too. I always walk around the yard and if I get ANY moisture on the toes of My boots the mower stays in the shop for another hour or two.
Larry, I grew up driving a 125 which has the same left hand hydro control as your 149, I could never get used to the right hand hydro control setup on the Quiet Line and later Cub Cadets. I find it easy to use a hydro to control speed and steer at the same time, I guess it's what you're used to. I think they set it up on the left side so that the right hand was free to do the implement lifting. As for the deck leveling step one is make sure that the tires all have the proper inflation then read Steve B's write up that's in the FAQ. As for washing the deck after use, you'd be much better off just using compressed air to blow the grass and dust off rather than washing it. IMO.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Larry:
Get a clamp on steering knob at your local tractor supply . I had trouble getting used to the shifter on my 129, put the "necker knob" on - makes it a whole lot easier steering one handed (never mind, Charlie..)
Get a clamp on steering knob at your local tractor supply . I had trouble getting used to the shifter on my 129, put the "necker knob" on - makes it a whole lot easier steering one handed (never mind, Charlie..)
dylschmidt
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2007
- Messages
- 104
- displayname
- Darryl Schmidt
Paul B.
Thanks for the pictures and infromation on the early Cub Cadet.
Very interesting. Hope that tractor shows up some day.
Is it believed that this is the very first " Cub Cadet" concept?
Would love to see some of that stuff at Madison..
Thanks again, Paul for shareing a little more history of the most amazing garden tractor ever built.
Darryl
Thanks for the pictures and infromation on the early Cub Cadet.
Very interesting. Hope that tractor shows up some day.
Is it believed that this is the very first " Cub Cadet" concept?
Would love to see some of that stuff at Madison..
Thanks again, Paul for shareing a little more history of the most amazing garden tractor ever built.
Darryl
lkortkamp
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Larry
I try to only mow when completely dry, but sometimes there is some moisture here/there due to tree shade.. After washing everything I run the deck to "air dry" everything and make sure there is no moisture in the bearing hubs.
I do want to get a "knob" for the steering as I know that will help drastically with one hand operation.
The JD I used had controls reversed, which is why it seemed more "common" to operate(like driving a car). The Cub is bass ackwards to everything I know as "usual". I find that I go to "stop" and grab the implement control instead.
I do want to get a "knob" for the steering as I know that will help drastically with one hand operation.
The JD I used had controls reversed, which is why it seemed more "common" to operate(like driving a car). The Cub is bass ackwards to everything I know as "usual". I find that I go to "stop" and grab the implement control instead.
Good Afternoon Fellow Cubbers!!!!
I know I don't post much. I just read and read and (hopefully) learn from the more knowledgable.
I FINALLY got the time to work on my 122. It started and ran for the first time in over 8 years. Blew out a BUNCH of rust from the exhaust.
Now, I have to try and get the clutch to dis-engage. It won't move when I press on the pedal. Is the rear plate attached to the arm and/or throw-out bearing? What pulls it back from the frictions disk? I have moved the engine as far forward as possible, and the driveshaft end is free from the engine and 3-pin driver, but I can't get the plates to release the friction disk.
I don't want to remove the clutch assembly. Do I need to soak the rear plate with PB? Is the Throwout bearing supposed to slide on the driveshaft?
So many questions... I'm probably overthinking the whole thing.... Maybe I just need another beer (or 6) and think some more......
I know I don't post much. I just read and read and (hopefully) learn from the more knowledgable.
I FINALLY got the time to work on my 122. It started and ran for the first time in over 8 years. Blew out a BUNCH of rust from the exhaust.
Now, I have to try and get the clutch to dis-engage. It won't move when I press on the pedal. Is the rear plate attached to the arm and/or throw-out bearing? What pulls it back from the frictions disk? I have moved the engine as far forward as possible, and the driveshaft end is free from the engine and 3-pin driver, but I can't get the plates to release the friction disk.
I don't want to remove the clutch assembly. Do I need to soak the rear plate with PB? Is the Throwout bearing supposed to slide on the driveshaft?
So many questions... I'm probably overthinking the whole thing.... Maybe I just need another beer (or 6) and think some more......
Randy J. Bean,
If you have a tool for removing gasket material from their mating surface (like a stout putty knife) use that after you let your clutch adjustment out a good bit. Place it between the plates and carefully pop it. With luck and the right touch you'll be alright. I guess you could use a screwdriver but I don't like the thickness of the blade.
If you have a tool for removing gasket material from their mating surface (like a stout putty knife) use that after you let your clutch adjustment out a good bit. Place it between the plates and carefully pop it. With luck and the right touch you'll be alright. I guess you could use a screwdriver but I don't like the thickness of the blade.
kphill
Well-known member
Randy, I had my 102 do that a couple of times..mostly when it set all winter and the clutch stuck to the pressure plate. I just pushed it outside, started it up and let it run for a while in neutral..between the heat from the engine and the vibration it seemed to come loose on its own. Try that first before you soak it in anything.
Well I got the K241 completely installed. Even though I can't start it yet, I'm happy. My cut to length plug wire wound up being 2 inches too short and I can't find the one from the K301 that's at the shop.
. I need to also get a piece for the carb fuel inlet. I was using rubber fuel line but now I have a honest to God sediment bowl.
And I'm gonna need some proper clamps for my gas and choke but at least I can look them up in the catalog. Ahhh a straight tractor. I love it.
