Archive through May 18, 2005

[dfrisk]

KEN - Was that Elwood axle added to that 14 or was it "Factory"? I would have thought a Red Power 14 would have gotten an axle that "Pin'd" on instead of the bolt-on saddle mount. That change took place with the One-Piece Frt bolster which happend pretty close to the RP program I thought. But then maybe that tractor's older than the red side panels make it seem. Nice thing about the Elwood FWA was at 225 HP the final drives in that tractor should be able to live a LOT longer.... I've heard of 1586's running 225 HP... but even THEY don't like that for long.

 

[stanner]

Ken

Last night I was at White's Farm supply in Canastota NY eyeing a good used fender ass'y for my 149, when i spotted the "cut" grass logo on a new 1554. Had to do a double-take, at first. It Kind of looked like a Cummins' "C"

does anyone know if a fender ass'y off of a 1512 is dimensionally similar to a 149 stamping? Mine is mangled and rusty, and was thinking of just finding a better one... the $$$ on the 1512 is really nice...

 

[wheinsohn]

Ken & Steve,
There is a 1066 with a 466 repower over by Elkhorn, Wi that is running about 225 for field use. But about June, the stock pump and injectors come off and replaced. He has not had it dynoed with this setup but it does mighty fine at tractor pulls with stock 20.8-38's. He has twisted a few tach cables off each year. He says he likes to go in 1st high in the lighter class and in 4th in the heavier classes.

 

[sblunier]

Scott,

Mounting at the foot rests and the battery trays are different, no inner fender wells on the 82 series fenders either.

Denny, Ken,

225hp on a 14' rear is asking for your check book to be emptied, that's for sure!!!!!

Wes, Ken,

IIRC, the last run of the 1066 may have had NA 466 motors in them from the factory due to a short term shortage of 414's

 

[mferree]

I HAVE A RED 482 (I KNOW - IT'S NOT MUCH OF A TRACTOR). THE SERIAL # IS 2050597U7305551. I TRIED REFERENCING PAUL BELL'S LOUISVILLE SERIAL NUMBER SCHEDULE BUT PERHAPS I'M MISSING SOMETHING. WAS THIS 482 BUILT AFTER THE SALE TO CUB CADET CORP? THE RED AND THE BADGING ARE ORIGINAL. DID CUB CADET CORP BUILD ANY RED ONES?

 

[kupdike]

The 1486 is a white cab repainted to look like a Tri-Stripe PPH tractor. Its here for PTO repair (huh??!!)

Here is the new "C" emblem that is being used...

Here is what CCC should be using....

 

[sblunier]

Mark,

CCC built a good portion of the red tractors under contract to IH. CCC built red tractors from '82-'85, concurrently, they ran their own line of yellow and white tractors (680, 882,1710,1711, 1912,1914, etc)

 

[wheinsohn]

Steve,
He bought the 1066 used and it started to use oil. So he went with the repower rather than overhaul. He still has the old engine sitting at my mom's landlord's place on a skid. He also bought a 806 wheatland cheap that also uses a little oil. He is thinking about rebuilding the 414T and putting it in either the 806 or the 866 he bought last spring.

 

[wheinsohn]

And getting back to cubs, now that the rain has stopped for a couple days, the 129 will get it's workout tomorrow. On a 50a deck, is it possible to have a bent spindle without bending the deck any? I have one side spindle on my 149 that cuts about 3/8 higher in front than the rear. The other 2 spindles are level. The thick plate doesn't look to be tweaked but that little bit over a 17" span would be hard to see.

 

[thoffman]

Back on the grease debate for a bit. Working in the dirt with heavy equipment, we use <u>LOTS-O-GREASE!</u> Lubri-plate seems to be grease of most Earthmoving contractors with Mistic JT-6 or JT-8 a strong second. Our machines get greased every day with about 20 + fittings each machine. The new thing now is sealed and lubricated pins, so to cut down on prep time. Personaly I like the idea of pumping new/fresh grease into a fitting and pushing out the old dirty/contaminated grease.

One owner of a Earthmoving company told me once, "Grease is cheaper that steel, so don't be afraid to loader 'er up". Words to live by!!

 

[sblunier]

Wes,

Measure carefully, then whack it back into alignment with a BFH.

 

[kupdike]

Grease zerk tip 101......(Using a mower deck as an example) grease the deck AFTER use when the bearings are warm.. By doing so you can superpack the bearing. As the bearing cools, the grease will be drawn into the bearing by wicking action. Also if you grease AFTER use, you will reduce the chances of seal blow out.

 

[rmunday]

"Grease is cheaper that steel, so don't be afraid to loader 'er up"

I like that!

 

[jinfante]

truer words have never been spoken in terms of basic maintainence

 

[cfischer]

I know this isn't directly associated with my 1250, even though the little buggers are yellow, but anyone have any advice for me on how to get rid of dandylions? They pop up faster than I can mow them down, and they are multiplying pretty fast. This is my first yard, so I'm a bit green... no pun intended.

Also, which of our sponcors has the best deal on Gator blades? My original blades, even though I sharpened them at the begining of the season are starting to dull out...I had a lot of branches and twigs in the yard when I first started.

Chuck

 

[sblunier]

Grease Zerk Tip 202:

Lincoln 12v cordless grease guns are the cat's a$$.

 

[thoffman]

Steve,
Yup, the cordless Lincoln is nice, but for the hard to push trough or in winter the good ol' Lincoln hand pumper is still the best.

 

[jlang]

Speaking of 782Ds I saw this one in the Dumont Museum the First of March this year. The Museum can be found a couple miles south of Sigourney, Iowa.

I have a photo album of a few more photos I took that day too. There's a link to my album in my profile.

 

[pdorow]

Chuck F.

Weed & feed or a hose conected (spray) braod leaf killer.

 

[bmoore]

This was kind of weird for May 19.....