Archive through May 17, 2012

[wshytle]

Don-

That was "rag day" back in the early spring. I was just out with the camera and it caught my eye as a silly pic I guess. It shows how frugal (cheap) I am. I was completely out of clean rags and usually just swap them out for clean ones with my mechanic nephew. He's an hour south of me, I had the soap and time, so I just had a rag soaking that led to this pic.

I need to line up some of the cubs for a family shot but it helps when they're running. I'll have enough in a year or two.

I'm pulling the engine out of the 129 again today to swap out the basket pulley. I've tried everything to get this one to work but after three belts in two mow sessions it needs to be addressed. It just has too many bends, is out of "true" (wabbles), and I can't get it back quite far enough for proper alignment to the S/G. This is the engine I was having keyway issues with and had to do a key extention with a cutaway to transfer the point of stress a little. The cutaway was so the locking collar/bearing would slide on far enough.

The fat lady isn't singing yet.

 

[nbartee]

My fuel shutoff valve in the tank on my 1450 is leaking like a sieve. Can anyone tell me how to remove, repair, or replace it?
Thanks,

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle

Wayne I had to LOL yesterday after our talk on the phone ,in an email after our talk you said you thought I have a strange accent. Well, You do also lol .

Well I hope I have better luck with the replacement oil pan and I`am about to find out . I have the 12 k ready to pull out of the 125 again , for it seems like the 100th time lol.

 

[dtanner]

Norm Bartee

I think if that has a metal take like a 149 , the gas shut off valve will just turn out of the tank. Usually its the gasket on the valve that cause the leak. Charlie sells the fix for that of use a piece of vacuum hose .btdt.

 

[dtanner]

I must confess to have found the issue with my oil leak. Seems all the pan holes are not the same dept , so I have another oil pan to install.i bet some rtv in the bolt hole would solve my problem

 

[nbartee]

Don,

No, my tank is plastic.

 

[jharvey]

Norm
My valve was held into the tank with a rubber grommet. Just grasp the valve and pull straight out. Once the valve is out you can easily work the grommet out for replacement.

 

[pfitzwater]

well, I posted this really late but I think I had an other picture that showed the spacer. I'm at work rignt now and had some free time. Only realized I drew this diagram on a computer with out internet So I took a picture from the monitor.

This is the order, I guess I may have misunderstood about the spacer. The original diagram is just reveresed so I just turned the spacer 180 degrees. I am 99% sure this is how I installed it. with out being home to look at it I can't say for sure.

 

[dtanner]

Norm Bartee

parts look up tells me that it takes a bushing 751-3008 . looks like the rubber bushing that my 1512 fuel tank has . http://ccspecialties.org/fuel_tuneup_maint.html has them for $3.50

 

[stanner]

Chris,
from the parts lookup button above,

 

[dtanner]

I though some where I read that a washer next to the teaser spring would make the spring last longer.

 

[pfitzwater]

after reading the archive, I belive I do have the spacer turned backwards. I was just going by what every one was saying about the diagram being rotated 180. Even with it rotated what differnce will this give? In my eyes it still will not correct the fact that the bracket does not connect with the bearing till its fully pressed.

I'm not trying to be difficult, I just don't understand.

Edit* is the spacer designed for the roll pin to sit inside the cup also while holding the spring in place? should I use a short roll pin? If that is true I would thing that could cause a lot of wear on the spacer if the pin isn't spaced correctly.

 

[hydroharry]

Patrick F - hope we can get Matt G back to look at your situation again. I can't address the order in which the clutch components are installed but I have a concern with the clutch "lever" in your earlier real pic. Your message below mentions "bracket". If you mean that dohicky (rectangular) with the hole in the center that the bearing goes against, thats called the clutch release lever. Looks to me like the raised area that goes against the thro-out bearing when you depress the clutch, has worn away. As such, it's probably not contacting the bearing until the pedal is nearly fully depressed. You may just need to adjust the clutch, or you may need a new lever.

 

[wshytle]

Patrick-

I don't know where that pic came from but it's incorrect. The teaser spring goes up against the moving pressure plate and the spacer "bell" goes over the spring. The spacer goes between the teaser spring and the clutch release arm like I mentioned earlier.

Another thing to check is excessive play where the clutch release arm connects (swings) to its bracket. A 3/8" pin holds it there. The holes as well as the pin can get so wallowed that they effect the overall performance. Also, the part of this arm that contacts the throw out bearing (two points, left and right) gets worn down. By taking care of the small things like this it will tighten up the action and make things just work better.

 

[hydroharry]

Patrick - here's a pic I stole from Charlie, of the clutch release lever. Wayne is referring to it as a release arm. You can see the raised areas and looking at your pic I believe yours is worn down so it doesn't contact the bearing until your pedal is nearly fully depressed. Adjusting your clutch may allow this to contact the bearing sooner but yours may need to be replaced.

 

[dschwandt]

Bought a compression test guage set this AM.
A fellow told me I should check compression cold as well as well as at operating temp (hot)

What kind of numbers should I be looking for here?
In other words, what is and is not acceptable??

Patient in this case is a 1450, it runs but smokes. I'm gonna pull it to replace the ISO mounts and wondering if I should go ahead and drop the pan and head gasket for inspection purposes.

Thanks!

Dave S.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, K series Kohlers are equipped with a compression release, your compression tester may not work properly.

 

[pfitzwater]

I see, that "drawing" is what I drew up. That is the order and position I set up. I thought about the release arm/lever it does look worn, It probally wouldnt hurt to replace it, all this happend originaly going from the front yard to the back yard. I will try and adjust the arm first.

the original throw out bearing was still spinning freely when I removed it. Maybe the spring went out of adjustment and caused me to see the broken peices?? who knows..

are these lever's interchangeable? I think the one I have looks more like the QL modle type shown on ccspecialties website
http://ccspecialties.org/qlclutchreleaselever.jpg

 

[hydroharry]

Patrick - I don't think the levers are interchangeable. The pic I posted is of the QL type at CC Specialties (stole from Charlie) and I thought it looked like yours in your pic. I see Charlie also lists a different version identified for wide frames but the pic looks exactly like the one for the narrow frames. I thought the wide frames used the same one as listed for the QL units (QL is a wide frame).

 

[wshytle]

Patrick, Harry-

I agree the easiest way would be replace the release arm. I just weld mine up. Going back with new lets you know exactly where you stand...like changing the oil. I'd be sure and examine the pivot pin too. They're easy to make from a 3/8" bolt and the sponsors above have the arm. A tad of grease on the two pivot points goes a long way too. I also put a couple of drops of oil where the throw out bearing slides but you want to keep oil from the clutch disc area. I believe some say no lube on the shaft at all but I've seen the difference more than one time.