Archive through May 16, 2016

[glippert]

I'm working on a 44A mower deck for grandson's 1250. (At least I THINK it's 44A.) Some of the parts in the lookup are broken down by the deck's serial number, and some also refer to the tractor s/n. My question: Is the ID tag on the mower deck the same as on the tractors, with the digits after the "U" being the serial number? Specifically, is the s/n of my deck: #047069?

 

[jdonovan]

Looking for suggestions on what to use to clean the rear end and transmission of my Original. Hoping to avoid stripping the protective coating(?) that's inside the housing. Thanks..Joe

 

[digger]

Joe D.
I don't think you can find anything to hurt that stuff outside of sandblasting, LOL

 

[wsdrake]

Turns out that I needed more than just a throwout bearing. I also needed a teaser spring and the spacer, as it wallowed it out pretty good. Will post pics when I get the parts in. I ordered everything from CC Specialties, as they had everything I needed for a good price. For everything, including shipping, I should have less than $60 in this repair, and considering a new bearing from my local Cub dealer is $65, I feel like I got a really good deal. I'm looking forward to getting this fixed; I put a fiber disk in it last year, and with these new parts this clutch should essentially be brand new again. Can't wait!!!

 

[rkelm]

Bill, I am having some clutch issues with my 126. I am a novice - how did you know it was the throw out bearing. I am not able to clutch and change gears - could I try adjusting the adjustment before having to change out the throw out bearing?

 

[wsdrake]

Hi Rodney-

It was pretty easy to tell in my case- the bearing basically blew apart. It had been making noise for a few months now, so I should have replaced it sooner, but didn't. Currently, I have absolutely no clutch at all.

In most cases it is the friction disk in between the pressure plates that wears out. About 2 years ago, I couldn't change gears at higher RPM's without the gears grinding, but at lower RPM's I could. I installed a new friction disk and everything was good. However, the difference for me was I still had pressure coming from the clutch pedal, meaning the throwout bearing was still good, but the friction disc wasn't stopping the driveshaft anymore.

This time, I noticed absolutely no pressure coming from the clutch pedal, except to activate the breaks. You can also look into the clutch release lever and see the bearing came apart, so it was easy to diagnose a bad throwout bearing.

Also, if the friction disk has thick score marks on it, or the holes where it attaches to the disk driver are elongated, it is time for a new friction disk (this comes right from the service manual).

In hindsight, and if I were you, I would go ahead and do everything all at one time, that way you won't have to worry about it later on. You can try and adjusting it, but if the friction disk is worn, you will never get it to work. I hope this helps.

 

[jnicklas]

Greg, You are correct, that is a 44A deck and the SN is 047069.

 

[jdonovan]

Thanks Charlie >..Joe

 

[digger]

So the forums info email address gets this email!
On 5/18/2016 3:54 PM, Charles Oakleaf wrote:
>
> Hi I'm Charles. I have bought a new starter in selonid in it will not turn over still

Should I tell him to check the gas cap?

 

[jbaker]