I am about to change the transmission fluid in my Cub Cadet 123. I watched a video on youtube about this. The guy in the video applies gasket sealant when he puts the new gasket on the transmission back plate. Is adding sealant to the new gasket advisable?
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Archive through May 13, 2017
- Thread starter jparsons
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John,
For what it is worth I always put a very thin layer of sealant on the cover, let it setup for ten minutes or so and then put the gasket on. I take my time, try to be neat and keep it out of the bolt holes. At least if you ever have to change it again you can work on the gasket/cover assembly on the bench. I cannot tell you how many tractors I had to scrape gasket sealer off of the cast iron housing on which is not easy. In fact most of them had sealer on both sides of the gasket pretty much "gluing" the coverplate to the housing requiring a hammer and chisel to get the cover off!!! I'm guessing there is no valid reason why it cannot be installed dry, I just feel better with a little sealer on the coverplate side of it.
For what it is worth I always put a very thin layer of sealant on the cover, let it setup for ten minutes or so and then put the gasket on. I take my time, try to be neat and keep it out of the bolt holes. At least if you ever have to change it again you can work on the gasket/cover assembly on the bench. I cannot tell you how many tractors I had to scrape gasket sealer off of the cast iron housing on which is not easy. In fact most of them had sealer on both sides of the gasket pretty much "gluing" the coverplate to the housing requiring a hammer and chisel to get the cover off!!! I'm guessing there is no valid reason why it cannot be installed dry, I just feel better with a little sealer on the coverplate side of it.
I have been using 50A decks for over 10 years. I put the first one on my 129. I was not real pleased with the cut until I put the front gauge wheels on. It was a different deck and I have been very pleased with the cut ever since. I put Gator blades on it also and that was even better with shorter clippings. You have to keep the blades sharp other wise it will leave a thin streak of uncut grass between the blades when you turn because it has less blade overlap then the narrower decks. I take my deck off once a month, clean the bottom off good, and touch up the blades and never have a problem. I mow almost 2 acres a week with it. I have also put a 50A on my 106 and 1650.
bellwood
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- Brian Ellwood
Let's try this again in the right section (ugh, sorry!)
Finally got around to dropping the driveshaft in the 124 (shifting became a two-handed game of strength)
Face of the throwout bearing is gone
I bought a tool from Matt to take this thing apart but cant figure it out for the life of me...
How do the plates look, where to go from here?
Finally got around to dropping the driveshaft in the 124 (shifting became a two-handed game of strength)
Face of the throwout bearing is gone
I bought a tool from Matt to take this thing apart but cant figure it out for the life of me...
How do the plates look, where to go from here?
Attachments
Brian, 1st off you knock the very front pin out. You do have a set of (spirol) roll pin punches I hope.
This will allow the clutch pates, disc and throw out lever to be removed, they should side right off, leaving the teaser spring, T/O bearing and main spring in place, held there by the 2nd & 3rd pin.
Then you simply assemble the tool on the shaft spanning everything between the 2 remaining pins
in such a way as to allow the pin(s) to be driven out after the spring has been compressed with the tool by tightening the nut(s) on the ends.
Secure the ass'ly in a vise by one end to do this.
I usually just clamp the shaft in my vise between two 1/4" aluminum jaw faces, then drive the shaft in just enough to remove the pin, then slowly back off the pressure to free the shaft. It will only jump out a couple inches or so, as the compressed length is only a bit shorter than the relaxed length. But you have the tool to do it right there in your picture.
Examine all the parts closely for wear, especially the pin holes and ends of the shaft where they enter the couplings, the couplings themselves and also the 3 pin clutch driver Good time to replace the teaser spring and cup (if used). I'd lay in a few new spirol pins as well and replace them all. Charlie has these along with whatever else you may need to complete your repair.
I see you have an original clutch disc. If in good shape, reuse it as it had a metal core the new replacements do not have. DO NOT use regular hardware variety split roll pins. They will break soon.
Check the clutch plates for rust, pitting or uneven wear. As this unit has been operational lately, they may not need resurfaced. This can be done on a belt sander if need be, try to get across hatch pattern for better grip. Matter of fact, if they are mirror finish shiny, it would be best to hit them w/the sander, or you could do the same thing with a piece of 80 grit taped to a flat surface, that is if you have the time to do some rubbing!!
Good Luck!
This will allow the clutch pates, disc and throw out lever to be removed, they should side right off, leaving the teaser spring, T/O bearing and main spring in place, held there by the 2nd & 3rd pin.
Then you simply assemble the tool on the shaft spanning everything between the 2 remaining pins
in such a way as to allow the pin(s) to be driven out after the spring has been compressed with the tool by tightening the nut(s) on the ends.
Secure the ass'ly in a vise by one end to do this.
I usually just clamp the shaft in my vise between two 1/4" aluminum jaw faces, then drive the shaft in just enough to remove the pin, then slowly back off the pressure to free the shaft. It will only jump out a couple inches or so, as the compressed length is only a bit shorter than the relaxed length. But you have the tool to do it right there in your picture.
Examine all the parts closely for wear, especially the pin holes and ends of the shaft where they enter the couplings, the couplings themselves and also the 3 pin clutch driver Good time to replace the teaser spring and cup (if used). I'd lay in a few new spirol pins as well and replace them all. Charlie has these along with whatever else you may need to complete your repair.
I see you have an original clutch disc. If in good shape, reuse it as it had a metal core the new replacements do not have. DO NOT use regular hardware variety split roll pins. They will break soon.
Check the clutch plates for rust, pitting or uneven wear. As this unit has been operational lately, they may not need resurfaced. This can be done on a belt sander if need be, try to get across hatch pattern for better grip. Matter of fact, if they are mirror finish shiny, it would be best to hit them w/the sander, or you could do the same thing with a piece of 80 grit taped to a flat surface, that is if you have the time to do some rubbing!!
Good Luck!
mmasheris
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- Michael A.Masheris
See Ya there, Mike
I'm bringing the soon to be completed 104
I'm bringing the soon to be completed 104
It cut off my post when I added the pic, anyway. The shaft will spin when out of gear and will stop spinning when clutch is depressed. But when I put in gear and release clutch the tractor won't move and the shaft is not spinning. What makes the back plate "grab" the friction disc and the front plate? The teaser spring? I've adjusted the nut on the bottom of the fork as much as it will go. Don't know what to do? Any help appreciated!
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Did you put the rear roll pin that tensions the spring in the right hole? There are 2 holes, one for the spring and one for the creeper...... Any chance you don't have tension on the main spring because the rear pin is in the creeper hole?
The main spring pushes them together the one you had to compress to get the throw out bearing off.
Sounds like you have something together bas ackwards.
Sounds like you have something together bas ackwards.
I think you have the adjustment to tight. when the pedal is up you should have about .050 clearance between the throwout bearing and the lever. This will prevent the bearing from rubbing on the lever all the time. The teaser spring provides a light pressure to ease the clutch in as you let the pedal up and the clutch starts to engage. Then the teaser spring cup contacts the back plate and puts the pressure of the main spring against the plate. Without the teaser spring the clutch would act grabby and it would be hard to get moving without a jerk.
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