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Archive through May 09, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Joe G.
Click the Parts Lookup button above and enter in 125 for the model number. Then click the attachments button and that will show you everything available for the 125.
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Joe: To get ya started, you'll be looking for a QA-38, QA-42, or QA-48 mower deck. The mule drive I can best describe as an undercarriage that hooks under the tractor and the mower hooks to the mule drive. A belt runs from the front PTO clutch, through the vertical mule drive pulleys and back to the horizontal mower deck drive pulley - there is no changing belt direction involved. Is that about as clear as mud?
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Joe G., welcome!
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The 125 is my all time favorite model Cub Cadet I have two of them. (I also have two of the model 105 which is the same as the model 125 only it has a 10hp instead of a 12hp.)

Here's a photo that shows how the mower deck drive belt setup works. Please note that the clutch pulley shown in this photo is the one that would be mounted on the front of the engine. The tractor has been "deleted" to make the belt route more visible.

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Here is the 3 pieces of rubber matting i put on to save the metal from hitting each other. is there a heat source right under the storage box of a 127? and the lip lost its 2 rubber grommets i had to put a strip down and use machine screws.

theo

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Theo, there should be no problem having the rubber matt in the storage box, the later 1x9 and Quiet Line used that storage area as a battery box. BTW, CC Specialties has some nice rubber bumpers for use as the seat stops that'll add some cushion to the ride.
 
i like it because in the event of the pin bag falling over or something like a washer or something falling in there it doesn't rattle or get lost. i cleaned it out from po he had a couple garbage bags, a bunch of golf balls he would find, a couple baseballs, a pliers, a tap, and roll pins/springs. i added an extra pair of gloves, a small ball peen hammer, and i'm not sure about if i want to put the roll pin punch in there or just leave it in garage.

that piece i put down where the seat goes makes it really comfortable. it doesn't squeak or bounce, made the seat time just a bit more comfortable. i would like a highback seat though. i will have to look around for it. i saw one at tractor supply with arms i might have to drop $50 on.

theo

theo
 
Thanks Luther! When is it suppose to cut off so as to not boil the battery?
 
Charlie

In your post "click the parts lookup button above"

I can not find this "button" I would like to look also! Just need a little help.

Thanks

Dean
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Ken & Charlie, well the front axel of the 129 has been completed and is now drilled and pined and i hope this will keep the axel from spreading . Hope this is a better repair and want to know what you all think. Later Don T
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Kevin

Max voltage shouldn't go above 14.5,with a fully charged battery and the system at operation temperature. The reading must be taken with the cover on the regulator. Check it a couple of times the first day or two to make sure it is stable. The old trade school rule-of-thumb was 13.8 to 14.2 for a typical 12 volt system.
 
I have the steering column and gear out of my 147 and it is almost all taken apart. There was a lot of play in the wheel and gear so I decided to try and fix it. There wasn't any play in the drag link after I replaced the roll pin on the left spindle.

I can not remove the large threaded end cap in the very end of the stearing gear. This is the one that has a cotter pin holding it in place.

I removed the cotter pin but still can not turn that cap. I haven't tried my long breaker bar yet. I figure that I should check here before breaking something. Is there a secret to this step ? Is it suppose to unscrew in the normal direction (CCW) ?

Speaking of the roll pin in the left spindle. I was thinking that I had to try the tapered pin fix that has been mentioned on this and other cub cadet boards. When I removed the old pin and cleaned up the parts I noticed that the holes all appeared nice and clean - no apparent wear. I looked at the old pin and it was compressed enough to be loose. I put in a new pin and it works great.

So before anyone reams for a larger pin, see if a new 5/16 pin will work.

Thanks,
Paul
 
Paul: It'll come, unless a PO cross threaded it in the first place. It's a "proper" right hand thread - and IMHO you're right to try to loosen it a bit before you tighten it.
That said, HAPPY BIRTHDAY, Don T.
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There's 3 stages to Life: Youth, Middle Age, and...You're Lookin' Good!
 
Don T.

If you plan on leaving the plate and bolt sticking out in front of the bushing on the front side of the crossmember you will want to check for clearance with a 44/50 mule drive in the QA hooks. The 1/2" rod that holds the idlers on the mule drive is centered on the QA hooks and a modification like yours can cause clearance issues, BTDT and bought the T-shirt....
 
whats the plus side of using/buying those rubber gromments that raise the seat 1 1/4 or 1 7/8 ". is it a comfort thing or is there other stuff to it?
 
Ted A.
I do it because it raises the seat to set more upright and the ride is MUCH better when the ground is rough. Saves the back, big time.
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well worth the $7? might have to do it. would you recommend the shorter set or the taller set?

theo
 
hey guys I want to thank all of you for your help and guidance just minutes ago i finished repairing my pto and head gasket so I will be puting the hood back on sunday and be mowing agian. i didnt have the tool to measure the adjustment on the pto so I went by feel. hoping my years of experiance in the automotive field help guide me along with putting it on and taking it off till it worked right. thanks agian for this great site now that i have my mower working i can get that 1962 project i have been wanting
 
ordered a set of the smaller ones for a start. we'll see how that goes

theo
 

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