Ok, I got real trouble now! I got the jam nut out & two set screws. The last two set screws stripped on me. I went to take the whole assembly via the two set screws supposedly holding it on the shaft well one I got out & the other it looks like someone broke something off in it? I really don't know what to do now? HHHEEEELLPPP!!
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Archive through May 04, 2007
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
I have a model 1450 with hydrostatic drive and after running for about 20 min. the engine looses power and stops. To start, I must wait about 10min. and will start and run terrific until it heats up again. Carb was adjusted according to manual, new plug, cleared fuel cap vent and cleaned carb. Any thoughts on the cause and cure.....thanks.
Brian,
You don't need to back it out. Here is a picture of what it looks like inside. Forgive the crude picture. The red part is the drive shaft. The blue is the bearing. The black is the pulley. The yellow is the set screw hole. The brown is the set screw. The set screw actually wedges the bearing against the pulley. After you drill out the set screw the pulley will come right off. Providing there isn't any rust on the bearing.
You don't need to back it out. Here is a picture of what it looks like inside. Forgive the crude picture. The red part is the drive shaft. The blue is the bearing. The black is the pulley. The yellow is the set screw hole. The brown is the set screw. The set screw actually wedges the bearing against the pulley. After you drill out the set screw the pulley will come right off. Providing there isn't any rust on the bearing.
Terry,
So, I'm going on what you are saying here cause you have the experience. Your saying two sizes smaller that the actual OD of the set screw & it should come right out? Is there any hints to removing the hub assembly that you can give if it doesn't?
ok, after all that I'm sure I'm going to require parts for this bad boy? Can you tell me what I'll need & what about that gapper OR feeler gauge any idea what the thickness is? Or do I need a special tool? I'm really in muddy water here I've never done one before.
I thank you so much for the help!!!
So, I'm going on what you are saying here cause you have the experience. Your saying two sizes smaller that the actual OD of the set screw & it should come right out? Is there any hints to removing the hub assembly that you can give if it doesn't?
ok, after all that I'm sure I'm going to require parts for this bad boy? Can you tell me what I'll need & what about that gapper OR feeler gauge any idea what the thickness is? Or do I need a special tool? I'm really in muddy water here I've never done one before.
I thank you so much for the help!!!
Here's a pic of the aerator on the 149.
I need to put some wheel weights on the tractor. With the float lockout pin in I can core pretty deep,
but if it's a little too dry the back wheels lift and I loose traction.
I added this bracket so I can use it with the cub cadet three point. It will still work with a regular three point hitch as well.
Now that I've worked it a little to make sure it will hold up to some abuse I just need to clean up the bracket and paint and I'll be done.
I need to put some wheel weights on the tractor. With the float lockout pin in I can core pretty deep,
but if it's a little too dry the back wheels lift and I loose traction.
I added this bracket so I can use it with the cub cadet three point. It will still work with a regular three point hitch as well.
Now that I've worked it a little to make sure it will hold up to some abuse I just need to clean up the bracket and paint and I'll be done.
Brian,
I had to drill out one of the set screws when I rebuilt the clutch on my dads 149.
After the set screw was out the clutch came off with a little gentle persuasion
from a large rubber mallet. I think there are some more persuasive methods that
you can find by searching the archives. <font size="-2">(Slide hammers, chains and pullers come to mind)</font>
Here are a couple of links to the faq.
http://cubfaq.com/setscrews.html
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html
<font color="0000ff"><font size="-1">Edit: I think I have the links right now.</font></font>
I had to drill out one of the set screws when I rebuilt the clutch on my dads 149.
After the set screw was out the clutch came off with a little gentle persuasion
from a large rubber mallet. I think there are some more persuasive methods that
you can find by searching the archives. <font size="-2">(Slide hammers, chains and pullers come to mind)</font>
Here are a couple of links to the faq.
http://cubfaq.com/setscrews.html
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html
<font color="0000ff"><font size="-1">Edit: I think I have the links right now.</font></font>
dclinansmith
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2004
- Messages
- 124
- displayname
- David Clinansmith
George, I had the same problem with my 149,the exhaust valve was sticking open. If you stood beside the tractor while it was cooling off you could hear the valve snap shut most of the time. The solution was to pump some MMO directly into the carb with the engine running about half throttle and then put a put MMO in each tank of gas,best mixed in your gas can. I have had no more problems since I started using MMO in the gas
Myron- thanks for the literature- I guess I over work it. Two weeks ago I was at a friends place shreadding the brush pile, we feed it oak limbs that were 3 or 4 inches in diameter. I thought that there was only one model- 59M which I have after looking at the pictures. I'm sure I wont ever find the other 2 shreaders.
Sorry I didn't get back sooner but I was out working on my truck and looking at a dozer blade for the 1250. I don't know what it fits. At the time we went to look at it all I knew is it was 42 inches wide and white. It is not a cub blade but it is really workable. The blade rotate lock is spring loaded, just pull the chain and push the corner against something solid the piviot it. A little welding and fabricating and it should work pretty good the blade looks fairly stout.
Sorry I didn't get back sooner but I was out working on my truck and looking at a dozer blade for the 1250. I don't know what it fits. At the time we went to look at it all I knew is it was 42 inches wide and white. It is not a cub blade but it is really workable. The blade rotate lock is spring loaded, just pull the chain and push the corner against something solid the piviot it. A little welding and fabricating and it should work pretty good the blade looks fairly stout.
George
I have one more suggestion for you. Check your valve clearances. Over time the valves beat into the valve seats and the clearances tighten up. When the engine runs, the valves get hot, expand and if the clearance is too small they get held open and compression goes down. When you let it cool, the valves contract and your compression comes back. Just something to try if the other ideas do not work.
I have one more suggestion for you. Check your valve clearances. Over time the valves beat into the valve seats and the clearances tighten up. When the engine runs, the valves get hot, expand and if the clearance is too small they get held open and compression goes down. When you let it cool, the valves contract and your compression comes back. Just something to try if the other ideas do not work.
How many little mechanics can they get in a bottle?
I tried Restore once , when it first came out. I should have got my money back. Nothing in a bottle / can will replace worn parts.
David - That's a new one I hadn't heard.
I tried Restore once , when it first came out. I should have got my money back. Nothing in a bottle / can will replace worn parts.
David - That's a new one I hadn't heard.
Why are people so afraid of a real cure- over haul the motor. I have never had any good results with the "wonder" or "miracle" oils I tried alot of stuff as a mechnic to avoid a rebuild. They might work for a short while but in the end when the season was over it was time for an overhaul in the end. If you count on your rig every day like I do its quicker and cheaper to just overhaul.
