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Archive through May 03, 2007
- Thread starter tgallagher
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
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- Home of the Plow Special
Charlie-
If we're OK with the rules, but we have a problem with one (or both) of the moderators, can we still email you?
If we're OK with the rules, but we have a problem with one (or both) of the moderators, can we still email you?
Art,
Ya Sure You Betcha!
Ya Sure You Betcha!
Bryan - Glad you caught that. Since I read from the bottom up I 'bout exploded when I seen his two post on the subject, then I got to your post and calmed down. His second post should have been the door slam though ... and I'm in the same state if he wants to contact me about it.
Michael - KOOL! Get us an mp3 so we can hear it !!
Digger - You left yesterday and the flowers bloomed , today the you left again and see what happened ! You better stay home
Michael - KOOL! Get us an mp3 so we can hear it !!
Digger - You left yesterday and the flowers bloomed , today the you left again and see what happened ! You better stay home
Boy,
What a day, LOL
Did I mention that it looks like rain here!
What a day, LOL
Did I mention that it looks like rain here!
Ray L:
1) Once you put the gear box with bracket on, no additional pieces are needed for the tiller (the lift bar & pin are used but they are already there as required for tiller installment.
2) If you wish to leave the gearbox installed and still use a sleeve hitch adaptor, only a lower "fixed" bracket need be installed on the bottom of the gear box bracket for an adaptor to be put on the tractor.
3) There is, out there, a third party heavier duty lower bracket with double wings on each side that can be substituted if the owner desires such an option.
4) Because the gear box extends the distance from the rear of tractor a longer lift bar pin probably should be used (I would)if a sleeve hitch adaptor is also installed.
5) The standard draw bar is installed in normal fashion on the bottom of the gear box bracket, with the lower bracket behind it, for items that need it like trailers or yard sweepers, etc.
6) I may learn something new, but to my knowledge no "heavier duty" sleeve hitch adaptor is needed. The sleeve hitch adaptor does require the use of the lower bracket as the lower two points and the lift bar pin as the upper & third lift point.
Myron B
1) Once you put the gear box with bracket on, no additional pieces are needed for the tiller (the lift bar & pin are used but they are already there as required for tiller installment.
2) If you wish to leave the gearbox installed and still use a sleeve hitch adaptor, only a lower "fixed" bracket need be installed on the bottom of the gear box bracket for an adaptor to be put on the tractor.
3) There is, out there, a third party heavier duty lower bracket with double wings on each side that can be substituted if the owner desires such an option.
4) Because the gear box extends the distance from the rear of tractor a longer lift bar pin probably should be used (I would)if a sleeve hitch adaptor is also installed.
5) The standard draw bar is installed in normal fashion on the bottom of the gear box bracket, with the lower bracket behind it, for items that need it like trailers or yard sweepers, etc.
6) I may learn something new, but to my knowledge no "heavier duty" sleeve hitch adaptor is needed. The sleeve hitch adaptor does require the use of the lower bracket as the lower two points and the lift bar pin as the upper & third lift point.
Myron B
"What is a cub worth"
That's actually a very complicated question. There are allot of factors to take under consideration. Model, quality of paint, amount of wear on the parts, did the previous owner change the oil regularly? Then there is the location. The further away from my house the less I would pay. If I had to drive 12 hours to get a cub I might need to stay over night and pay for $80 in gas. That would lower the value by $200 not to mention my time on the road.
Another thing to remember is one man's treasure is another man's junk. I would pay more for a 147 than I would for a 125. You couldn't give me a 125. Personally I don't see the attraction.
As you can see the question in question, is not that easy to answer. So, instead of getting into a heated debate on who would spend what on what, our friendly owners and moderators decided to avoid those debates by having a simple rule.
Don't let a little rule discourage you from having fun and asking all other kinds of questions. Like what kind of oil should I put in my Hydro.
That's actually a very complicated question. There are allot of factors to take under consideration. Model, quality of paint, amount of wear on the parts, did the previous owner change the oil regularly? Then there is the location. The further away from my house the less I would pay. If I had to drive 12 hours to get a cub I might need to stay over night and pay for $80 in gas. That would lower the value by $200 not to mention my time on the road.
Another thing to remember is one man's treasure is another man's junk. I would pay more for a 147 than I would for a 125. You couldn't give me a 125. Personally I don't see the attraction.
As you can see the question in question, is not that easy to answer. So, instead of getting into a heated debate on who would spend what on what, our friendly owners and moderators decided to avoid those debates by having a simple rule.
Don't let a little rule discourage you from having fun and asking all other kinds of questions. Like what kind of oil should I put in my Hydro.
