Archive through May 01, 2017

[mhomrighausen]

Perhaps this site may provide some assistance into the Planet Junior original colors. CLICK HERE

 

[prtombaugh]

Thanks Ron, Charlie, Kraig and Marlin. I did find a picture of the Planet Jr tiller. It shows everything white except the B&S engine which is painted teal. The Planet Jr decals are still on the engine which leads me to think the teal is legit.

 

[nbodin]

Paul T.
Here is a pic of the planet jr tiller I bought with an cub original. I sold the tiller. The pulley was a gold color and the shroud under the motor. Hope this helps

 

[prtombaugh]

Thanks Nate. The tiller colors in the pictures you posted match up the same as the other pictures I found today. Thanks!

 

[nbextermueller]

I think I like the black and White paint or All yellow waaaay more than that teal and gold...

 

[sblunier]

That thing is a OSHA violation waiting to happen!!!!!

Whatever color you paint it, make sure it has one or two of these on it!!!

...Poor little stick guy!!!!

 

[dschwandt]

AMEN!!!

 

[rbeem]

You would know David Schwandt!

 

[dschwandt]

Pulling the tubes off the #2 tiller
Was the only way short of destroying them in the process. Total PITA!!
The are fighting me every inch of the way.
Heating and beating would not phase them a bit.
I am heating them as well while pulling. Dropped a 10" piece of 1" round inside, when the threads run out on the bolt, I add a short piece of 3/4", re-run the bolt and repeat.
7/8" fine thread Gr 8

 

[nbodin]

David-
That is the only way to get the stubborn things off if they are welded on with rust. That is exactly the way I did it also.

 

[dschwandt]

The 2'nd one popped right off w/a little heat.
was not as stubborn as the 1st one was.
Now it's on to the bearings.

 

[dschwandt]

Good Grief!!
What have I gotten myself into??
Let the fun begin!!

Here is where a lot of the slot was coming from
I think I can repair this w/pieces from the left over retainers that will be replaced (thanks Charlie)!!
I could also spot weld the carriage bolts in place before re-assembly
TIP: Polish the shafts before attempting to remove the bearings

 

[rrschmitt]

David S,

Wow!

. I knew getting those tine tubes off would be a pain. Am I seeing this correctly, you welded a nut onto the end of tubes to pull them?

I didn't know that the bearing mount holes on the center drive housing could actually pull out like that. I wonder if it was caused by years of use/abuse for if there was an overload condition at one time.

 

[rrschmitt]

David S,

You probably have already thought ahead about this but when you put the tine tubes back on the drive shaft, be sure to coat the shaft and tube ID with some "Never Cease" compound.

Also make sure you mount the tines correctly with the cutting edge pointing forward in the direction of rotation. I've seen a number of tines mounted improperly over the years as people don't always pay attention and don't realize there are LH and RH tines.

Those No 1A and 2B rear mounted tillers do an awesome job preparing the garden for planting.

 

[dschwandt]

Got Ya covered, Ron
The inner nuts on the bearing support plate were loose, that's what caused all that damage. the other side were fairly tight yet. I'm thinking I can cut the center out of one of the new supports and weld on the inside, plus I will tack the new grade 5 bolts in place. Will use top lock (stover) nuts on the inner supports and hopefully they will stay put!

I will have to double check 1st to make sure there is enough clearance inside the case for the extra thickness.
Film at eleven

 

[tbenak]

Glad this site is still up and running. I have been off the reservation for a few years. Nice to log on and get caught up.

 

[jstouffer]

Hello Everyone: I've not been on here in years, but i have a question I figured one of you could probably answer. My 105 Hydrostatic pump is bad {non ported} I have a ported pump off a 149 i would like to use but i would have to cap off ports. Would this cause any damage to unit or overheating of hydrostat concerns? Thanks for any and all help.

 

[sblunier]

Easiest way around that would be to "loop" the ports with a connecting tube. to allow the open center hyd. to circulate oil.

Other way is to reverse the procedures IH had for converting a plugged 169 hydro to hyd. lift.

Kraig, do you have a copy of that document in your archives?

Best yet, sell the ported hydro and replace it with a dime a dozen non-ported unit......

 

[kmcconaughey]

I believe this is the only pertinent page from the install manual.

 

[masmith]

Just spent time getting my recently acquired 149 ready to put the tiller on. The 129 manual lift wasn't fun. Everything works great........Except checking if the PTO is working correctly. The tiller runs continuously and I have adjusted the rod as much as possible. I have always had the other PTO style with the button and guessing this one is missing some parts.