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Archive through May 01, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kide

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2006
Messages
3,779
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Gerry Ide
Tim:
Pig is done working, just laying around now...pics later
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Matt G.,


Hey Matt, this is my ignition switch and the second one I have. Any ideas?
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Morning all.cold and rain soon so the day will be spent out here in the Cub Shed finaly putting the gas tank on the 107 and taking the #30 carb off and putting on the 26 that I rebuilt.LOL will see how my rebuild works.Charlie did you ship my parts? Later Don T
Kendell , what you up to?
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Don T.:
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You were right -- the governor arm had slipped on the shaft. I was forced into finally dealing with it after trying the rake on one of the 123's with manual lift.
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Can some one tell me what the L terminal on the v/r is used for.
all my connection look good. I wonder if I have enough cranking amps.
 
RichardP Nothing special, just primed, lightly, with sandable primer and used Valspar spray can. No flaking or chipping of the spring's paint at all. Good luck with yours!
 
Jim T.-

When the terminal corrodes off, there's not much you can do but replace it. I suppose you could drill out the rivet and rivet in a new terminal, but I haven't tried it, so I don't know. I've taken one or two apart by opening up the crimp on the back, cleaning the contacts on the inside, and putting it back together with epoxy. I think you'd be better off just getting a new one at this point.
 
Mike Morrison, The "L" terminal is used on some tractors and goes to their ignition switch and I'm not sure but I seem to recall it is also used on those same tractors for their lights. I see in your profile you have a 125. DO NOT USE "L" on your tractor. I have found that when you flash one of these voltage regulators it is much easier and electrically safer to remove the vr cover and use the connecting point inside when flashing (touching a jumper from GEN to BAT engine off).
I hope this helps.
 
VR's do not need to be "polarized" on Cub cadets. The Starter part of the Starter Generator automatically polarizes the VR at first start-up.
 
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I was driving my 129 a little this morning and I finally see how a hydrostatic works.
All this time I've been trying to use the selector in conjunction with the "clutch" and none too happy. NOW I SEE that when you hit the brake she pops into neutral. And the you just select the direction and speed.
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Thanks for all the advice on the 127.
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I'm too busy with other work to get to it right now but I'll check it out soon and let you know how it went.

Cheers, Chris
 
Richard P: Take note of Steve B's comment about "NO polarization necessary". He's right on the "money" as usual...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Removal of spirol pin in driveshaft rear coupling = 4 days! split tractor and remove transmission = 1 Hr.
pictures soon to follow.
 
Myron, I read it and have no argument. I will continue to what the manual says to do whenever the electric circuit is broken.
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In the following image it reads N 12V 98866. Is it referencing one of those new (in it's day) 12 volt negative ground systems?
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Cracked her open and this is what I found.
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Note missing tooth.Shifting fork on right is loose, I assume it should be lined up with the left and tight.
 
Tim K.-
They should line up. Looks like you'll be back in business with some good used gears.

Under edit:

Now that I see the other picture, looks like the right one is bent a bit, as well.
 
Matt, do you mean the lower portion of the fork?
How dificult is it to tear down and replace that gear?
 
Tim-

I mean the top part that the shifter engages. Notice that the surfaces that the ball on the end of the shifter touches aren't parallel. I have not torn down a transmission that far, but if you have the service manual, it shouldn't be too bad.
 
Matt

That whole fork is loose on the shaft, I don't think it is bent but just needs lined up and tightened down.
 
Tim-

Well, then give that a try first. It's hard to say from a picture. You've got the tractor in front of you
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