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Archive through March 30, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Does anyone use 18x8.50-8 vredestein V61 front tires with 26x12 rear lugs?
I am thinking about changing to lug tires on my 100 and I am trying to decide between 26 rear and 18 front or going with 16x6.5 firestone tri rib with 23x10.5 rear lugs.
Anyone have any pictures of the larger tire setup? Or any recommendations for or against?
Thanks
I am thinking about changing to lug tires on my 100 and I am trying to decide between 26 rear and 18 front or going with 16x6.5 firestone tri rib with 23x10.5 rear lugs.
Anyone have any pictures of the larger tire setup? Or any recommendations for or against?
Thanks
Hi All,
It has been a while since I have posted anything although I do come and lurk every now and then to learn something. Greetings from Santa Barbara – still no snow to push off my driveway, keep hoping.
The steering on my Original had just about seen its last turn as the ball separators, ball cups and raceways were trashed. I can probably smooth the raceways one last time but thought I would try something different. I used a new bearing system that requires zero modifications to the steering hardware and can be changed back to stock with no hassle. I now have about 60 hours on this fix and it works so well that I thought others might find this useful for a worn out steering system. Mine is still working smooth as silk.
I used needle thrust bearings sandwiched between 1/8’ thick hardened, precision washers. The parts are an off the shelf assembly from Mcmaster-Carr and I have a total cost of $17 less shipping. Part numbers, 5909K34 bearings and 5909K61 washers.
The system is centered by the end washers that fit into the tapered ridge where the stock bearing cup would fit. The inside washers are centered by the taper in the ball race. The entire assembly fits the same length as the stock setup and is easily adjusted, no up and down steering shaft movement. The only thing I might do if I take it apart is add a wave washer to the bottom to keep it always compressed.
I do have a question. I replaced my cam follower stud with a new unit, #379992-R1. Why are the threads not completed to the tapered part? The only reason I can see is to keep the stud from falling out but that would be easy to prevent. If the threads went all the way then the stud could be pulled out without taking the entire steering apart. It could be inspected, dressed, polished and put back in from the outside, probably ten minutes. Also, it would provide an excellent lubrication hole. I might thread my old unit which is now cleaned up.
Anyway, hope this fix helps someone else – much cheaper than buying a new steering column, if you can find one.
Lower Needle Bearing showing the parts and fit into the threaded nut
Assembled bearings on the column
Completed assembly and adjusted with no play
It has been a while since I have posted anything although I do come and lurk every now and then to learn something. Greetings from Santa Barbara – still no snow to push off my driveway, keep hoping.
The steering on my Original had just about seen its last turn as the ball separators, ball cups and raceways were trashed. I can probably smooth the raceways one last time but thought I would try something different. I used a new bearing system that requires zero modifications to the steering hardware and can be changed back to stock with no hassle. I now have about 60 hours on this fix and it works so well that I thought others might find this useful for a worn out steering system. Mine is still working smooth as silk.
I used needle thrust bearings sandwiched between 1/8’ thick hardened, precision washers. The parts are an off the shelf assembly from Mcmaster-Carr and I have a total cost of $17 less shipping. Part numbers, 5909K34 bearings and 5909K61 washers.
The system is centered by the end washers that fit into the tapered ridge where the stock bearing cup would fit. The inside washers are centered by the taper in the ball race. The entire assembly fits the same length as the stock setup and is easily adjusted, no up and down steering shaft movement. The only thing I might do if I take it apart is add a wave washer to the bottom to keep it always compressed.
I do have a question. I replaced my cam follower stud with a new unit, #379992-R1. Why are the threads not completed to the tapered part? The only reason I can see is to keep the stud from falling out but that would be easy to prevent. If the threads went all the way then the stud could be pulled out without taking the entire steering apart. It could be inspected, dressed, polished and put back in from the outside, probably ten minutes. Also, it would provide an excellent lubrication hole. I might thread my old unit which is now cleaned up.
Anyway, hope this fix helps someone else – much cheaper than buying a new steering column, if you can find one.
Lower Needle Bearing showing the parts and fit into the threaded nut
Assembled bearings on the column
Completed assembly and adjusted with no play
J
jspicer
Guest
Nice 73 Cory. Now how and the heck did ya get that thing for free!!!!!!!
Josh
Josh
Richard P-
I've heard of some one running a small cement mixer with a cub. I've also heard rumors that Danco made a small brush hog for cubs to be ran with the rear PTO. Does anyone know if this was true or not?
I've heard of some one running a small cement mixer with a cub. I've also heard rumors that Danco made a small brush hog for cubs to be ran with the rear PTO. Does anyone know if this was true or not?
