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Archive through March 29, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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I got the engine out.

Harry - I took your advice and used an engine hoist instead of my back.

One thing that has been mentioned, but I neglected to get are the front snubbers. The one on my cradle look like they have seen better days. I know I need to use Cub Cadet ISO mounts, which I have a good set, but what about the snubber? Is this something I can get at NAPA or should I use original snubbers?

The cradle holes for the iso mounts appear to be slightly elongated - definitely not true round. How much elongation till I need to be concerned?

I'm going to pull some of the engine shroud and clean the fins. Question is - while I'm in there, I'll be counting fins. I've read much discussion about 12 vs 13 fins. Why is this important - better cooling with the 13 fin block? Just curious on this point.

I'll post pics later today or tonight.

Thanks!!!!!!!
Bill
 
I am looking for some information on the haban sickle mowers. What size pulley is on the PTO clutch and what size pulley is on the haban mower itself.
 
12-13 fins only matters on the 16hp block. Early engines had 13 fins, later had 12. There was talk at one time about the 13 fin being more desireable as a pulling motor as it could potentially be bored to larger cylinder bores without punching through the walls.

In the end the 13 fin engine has only one significant feature for "normal" collectors and users..........if you want a "correct" 169, it should have a 13 fin in it (or at least 99% of them left the factory with one...and some of the early 1650's too...I had one).......otherwise, it's just a Kohler 16hp block. In either configuration the pull like a freight train, but shake like a brick truck
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Other HP designations don't have any block fin "issues" of consequence, only the 16hp....
 
Mike Frade

I have a few gear drives, I have two Originals and my 100. I have a lot of slop in the left front spindle cap and have a reamer here to repair that. I never used the 100 much because of the slop in the steering , But I will get at that as soon as the weather here does not go down to freezing. The wife puts the fusion in every night now so I need to leave room for her car. I have a few things to do this year to get some more attachments on Cubs.I have a tiller that I have been wanting to put on a cub and thought the 147 might be a good choice for that. but to do that I want to pull the 14K and check for balance gears.
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So someone had a 169 and all the fixin's in storage for over 6 years. I thought I'd do my part and bring it home.
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Could someone provide details of 44U deck and if it works with a QL?

I just got a line on a 44U deck with the sheet metal in great shape. Could someone provide details about this deck? Bearing/spindle types, etc? I thought QL decks were 44A or 50A and the U is throwing me for a loop as googling it doesn't seem to produce much.

Thanks,

Calvin
 
Bill J - I can't really say how critical it is for the holes to be round in the ISO-bars. I've seen some ovaling as you describe and I've gone ahead and re-used them. I did file them down somwhat so they weren't sharp and didn't have burrs. Hope others on here will address as well. The worn snubbers can be replaced even after you re-install everything, if necessary. The Service Manual provides a spec for the space between the snubber and the frame. You can add/remove shims as necessary. The snubbers are apparently important when using the front PTO and so the tension on the belt doesn't chock the engine. Make sure you count the fins when you clean up the engine. Be careful when you remove the tin for the coil mount, it tends to crack. Also pay close attention on how it's done since putting it all back and mounting the coil and condensor is a little tricky. Have a good look at the cast duct between the engine block and the muffler. It tends to crack and the screw holes loose their threads. David Kirk has a nice "crutch" addition to avoid the pressure and cracking. And please, please, please make sure you remove the head and de-carbon the piston and head. It's critical to the life of the engine - carbon will kill it. And you can get a look at your cylinder wall as well and tell how good the rings may be. Good luck with all your efforts and don't get overall anxious to put it back together immediately - or you may just have to tear it all apart again (which will be easier and take 1/3 the time). And don't forget the fan I mentioned before.

Dan W - check the manuals thread. There are some manuals in there for several of the Haban sickle mowers. Alot of good info but don't know if they'll give you sizes for the pulleys.

Wyatt C - your pic didn't post. Please post again. I'd sure like to see the 169 and all the fixin's.

Calvin - never heard of a "44U" deck. You can follow Charlie's suggestion. It's not listed in my paper copy of the IH parts book. I think the U is only associated with the 38/42/48 decks. Let us know if you discover something otherwise. Maybe it's a CCC deck.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they do need appropriate breeze flowing around the hydro pump)
 
Don Tanner, I knew you had Gear Driven Cubs as well as some Hydro. In reading the days posts (yesterday) I was amazed at the trouble some guys go through to keep a sluice box moving the same speed uphill or down. Washers and dimes/pennies as shims? I guess they can say they were throwing coin at the problem huh?!?!

Now I know it took 30 to 40 years to wear out those parts, and if repaired properly it'll (should) go another equal length of time to fail.

I replaced the clutch in mine "just because"! I had the motor out and figured it was 31 / 32 years old then.. may as well change it out. Now I also replaced the bearing and teaser spring at the same time.. Just 'cause I was in there.

The original parts were still working and didn't show any abnormal wear, but I figured they were due...

It really seems that the liquid drives are problematic as we're always having someone ask questions on trunion repair or speeding up / slowing down on a hill.

Perhaps I'm a bit biased, but that's cause I assembled my tractor 10 - 12 years ago and the drive has NEVER given me any grief and is completely reliable whenever I need the machine.
 
Regarding the 44U deck mystery...

Well, I haven't been able to find anything re. The 44 U deck. The deck looks exactly like the one in Charlie's pic. It has serial plate in the same place as my 50A. The top is rattle can painted Cub Cadet off white and I can't tell what color it was before but look like white as well. The underside has very little paint - but it appears there was some yellow?

Thanks for any help - I've tried google, this site and OCC there seems to be virtually no info. The seller is not the original owner so doesnt know the back story but he had it mounted on his 1450 and it ran/cut fine - I saw it in action.

I was unable to find any info in the parts lookup.

Calvin
 
Hey guys, just a little bit ago I was mowing with my 128 and the governor popped out of the block. I cut the engine off and I screwed it back in. Now when I try to start it, the thing has so much compression (I was turning it over by hand) that the s/g doesn't have enough power to turn it over. Also, when i turned it over by hand, a hissing noise came out of the crankcase. What does this mean? how do I fix it? Any help would be great. Thanks
 
Andrew,
Sounds like the governor gear came off, and maybe something else with it. You will probably have to open her up and have a look-see in the bottom.
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Calvin L.
What is it exactly that you want to know?
Will it fit? Yes
All you have to do to find out what parts it has is Do the parts look up like I mentioned earlier and it gives you an exploded parts diagram of the entire deck.

THEN, if you want to know what any part on that deck fits other than the 44U, click Start a New Model, enter in the PN and it will bring up every deck that part fits.

Other than that, I don't know what it is your asking us for.
 
Jeff Baker,
I found the electrical problem with my 128. I tried the suggestions you told me and got some wierd readings.
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I also tried the s/g test to see if the generator part was working, and it was ok. I checked several connections and they were fine too. Since I was getting some wierd voltage readings I figured the voltage regulator was a good place to look. Soon as I took it out and removed the cover, the problem was obvious. The "wire" going from the "F" terminal to the coil had melted.
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It looks like some kind of fusible wire. I went and found another v/r, and put another one on. I cranked the 128 back up and checked the voltage readings. This time the readings were normal. Sorry it took so long to reply, but I have been busier than a one legged man in a tail kicking contest. Thanks Jeff, and everyone who contributed to the FAQ's!
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I don't know how to break it to everyone only that young fella on here by the name of Ryan McShane just scored again today... It seems that he asked me to go to an auction in Des Moines for him since he had to go home for the weekend.... Sssooo.... I spent most of the day enjoying the weather and when the time was appropriate spent a little of his very hard earned money. He is now the proud owner of his THIRD (in a less tha a month) purchase of a 169 Cub Cadet. It came with a non IH front blade (very heavy duty), nice 50" mower deck, and an Original snowthrower converted to fit the wide frame tractor. The snowthrower wasn't ruined by the modification and is salvageable. The tractor although somewhat rough runs with a replacement 12 fin 16 hp engine. ( I talked to a gentleman that gave me the history on the tractor and personally installed the replacement engine.) Also, THIS particular tractor features BOTH manual and hydraulic lift.

Pictures will be taken in the morning when I unload everything. I must say... Congratulations, Ryan!!! You did real good scoring that coveted third in less than a month 169 hydro Cub Cadet."
 
Has anyone used the inline filter kit on a metal gas tank yet I am looking at putting one on my 100 cub cadet and the cut off valve is male thread and thats what is on the gas tank to.What do I need to put the cutt off valve on or does the piece come out of the gas tank.TIA,Joey.
 
Calvin L
There was a 44" deck built in 1973 to 74 that had an ID plate number of 441U1111. It is the same as the 44A deck built 1974 to 1981. The only difference I can find between the two is the center deck pulley changed at serial number 81742. Below that number the 44" deck with the 41U111 id plate and the 44A deck used the same center pulley as the 50A. Everything else appears the same on the two 44" decks unless I missed something.
 

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