Archive through March 28, 2014

[kostendorf]

Thanks Frank, and Harry, I figured it out. Now I've got to set the stop. What is wot 3400 or 3600?

 

[hydroharry]

Bob E - way out in Cali-forn-knee - if you have a 38" or 42" deck for the 1000 then you likely already have a mule drive with straight pulleys. I don't know how much a used WF mule drive set up originally with straight pulley's would cost but likely less than buying the individual parts to convert your angled pulley set up (except maybe shipping cost). Just my thinking on this. There are some pictures in the back of the Quiet Line Operator Manual if you have one that has the mowing section.

Keith 0 - supposed to be 3400 under load and 3600 under no load but make sure you have an accurate tach measurement. Most of us on here have a pretty good ear to know when one is running above 3600 and getting ready to blow - dang things scare me when I hear them at like 3800 or more.

 

[jbaker]

What did I read, someone picking on me, Well let me introduce you to my other friend

I don't know what I was thinking when I typed that 12hp thing. And no offense taken from Sgt. Bursell

Steve as Harry said your 149 mule is welcome here.

Glad to see Jerry has my back.. thanks

 

[kostendorf]

I got the linkage and cables back in line with the screw stop. I have a digital photo tachometer, this the first time I've used it. Seems it says idle is 1050 and wot no load on the governor is 3650. I tried it about 4 times and it repeated +or- 10 of those readings raising and lowering the throttle all 4 times. Did I do this right?

 

[dschwandt]

Kieth, I just die my 1450 yesterday, low idle is 1200 rpm's

 

[jclazar]

Sorry for jumping in,.... I was trying to think of some concrete reasons why our shaft driven IH Cub Cadets have a clear advantage over some of the other methods of mobility such as a drive belt garden tractor. I feel in my gut, that the direct drive produces a lot less friction, lasts longer, and results in a noticeable gain in torque over the other drive. Basically, what's the story behind the proven principals that IH chose for its various drive systems, both direct and hydro drive?

Enjoying the last few days of reading here at IH Cub Cadet!

 

[belliott]

Harry,

Both tractors have 44" decks. I'll be on the lookout for a 38" or 42" mule drive.

I started out in Illinois, moved to New Jersey and wound up in California. I feel like I brought some of my Midwest roots with me in the form of a couple of Quietlines.

 

[bjamison]

Probably going to hit the hornet's nest again, but....

John L - I can speak a bit to your question regarding drive shaft vs belt drive. Having used and abused a Sears Suburban garden tractor as a boy and owning and using Wheelhorse tractors for many years now, the bottom line IMHO for home and garden use/chores, is the Cub driveshaft offers no advantage and if there was one, you probably wouldn't notice it. In every case, it seems the rear wheel spins before a clutch or belt slips or something breaks. I don't ever remember the drive belt slipping on the old Sears and we use to pull a hay wagon with it feeding cattle. My Wheelhorse - never a problem with a drive belt slipping or breaking.

However to me the significance of the driveshaft in the gear drive IHCC's, aside from it being a cool design, is this: You got a Kohler engine, coupled to a gear drive tranny via an automotive style clutch and driveshaft. I feel the gear drives are the only true direct descendants to a farm tractor in design and legacy of any garden tractor.

 

[jbaker]

ummm ok

 

[sblunier]

Bill J.

I agree......as long as there is a separate clutch on the drive belt (like the Original). When belt tensioners are used as clutches, things start to go south. This is also true for belts used as variable speed drives.......too many opportunities for galzing, belt stretching, etc. that eventually effect performance. Your comments about a definate advantage going to a real clutch are spot on.

You can pull an IH 466DT down until it dies with a big V-belt (combine rotor drive), so it's inaccurate to say correctly designed belt drives won't "take the heat"........it's all in how they are actuated.....


(We will still have to disagree about parts and implement commonality in the IH CC line though....

)

 

[jharvey]

Maybe it's just my personal preference but the shaft drive means horizontal crankshaft and the piston going up and down for longer life. Vertical crankshaft means piston sideways allowing for more wear due to gravity forces.

 

[sblunier]

NOt always true, the older machines still used horizontal cranks (Deere, Wheel Horse, Simplicity, etc.)

 

[hydroharry]

Bill QQ - <font size="+2">Blasphemy!

</font>

 

[jgoodine]

Steve I agree with you, IH really had it figured out when it came to getting power from engine to the wheels, hydrostatic or gear drive, they are virtually bullet proof IMHO, It seems like in the sixties IH was a mile ahead in garden tractors really to anything else the I have seen. I have run belt drive tractors with variator style drive and they do work good when they work, but can be problematic. I think maybe IH was so successful that they maybe feel behind in some other areas, (just my opinion) things like steering brakes, multiple hydraulic outlets, and electric pto. This stuff was all available by late 60's early 70's. Guess that's why I'm a narrow frame kinda guy.

 

[jgoodine]

Is the 123 the first ever hydrostatic garden tractor?

 

[fcurrier]

Joel: At least as far as Cub Cadet is concerned. P.S. It isn't a #1 cart, I think it's a #2.

 

[dfrisk]

JOEL - 123 = First Hydro CC.

I'm not so sure IH really "Fell Behind" the other brands in the market place. Cost was ALWAYS a concern, and adding P/S, 2-3 sets of hyd remotes, steering brakes, either sleeve hitch or Cat O 3-pt, rear live PTO, etc all added cost. The vast majority of CC's were used to mow grass with rather light 38", 42, 44, 48, or 50 inche decks that could easily be raised by hand with manual lifts. A few were used to move snow, rototill, etc. where a hyd lift was a nice option. And IH made those options available.

JIM D. - Kohler Magnums had ductile crankshafts, same material as all those high revving Cleveland Ford's.

 

[jgoodine]

Tks Dennis and frank, Dennis I am curious how was IH priced compared to there competition back in there 60's an 70's. I do realize that if pricing was not comparable then it's not fair to compare other things.

 

[dfrisk]

JOEL - I don't have any new tractor price lists, but several people who post here frequently do.

The challange will be finding pricing for other brands of garden tractors & attachments.

My gut level instincts tell me IH wasn't the cheapest. Probably on the top half of the range on pricing, like if a 10 HP gear drive tractor/mower sold for $650 to $900 total, a CC 10 HP GD & 38 inch deck would sell for $800-$825.

Even thought Bill "QQ" J. likes to poke fun at IH and their "thick steel & cast iron", all that material comes at a cost as in Dollars per Pound.

 

[crarnold]

Hello all I am trying to learn a little about Originals. Does anybody have an idea serial number wise on these two things. First when did they start putting the cresent cut out on the right side of the pedistal? Second when did they stop using the fabricated starter generator bracket? Thanks Clay