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Archive through March 27, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Harry
You left yourself open when you picked on our friend Jeff.
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How do you apply the brakes on a 1450 without kicking the hydro into neutral?
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Back to lurking!
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Jerry - I wasn't pickin on Jeff. He's one of my best friends on here especially since he has a 169.

Now, to respond to your comment, it doesn't matter if the Bob's 1450 Hydro speed control is pushed into neutral when using the brakes since the tiller action itself pushes the tractor forward. If he doesn't have good brakes to hold the tractor back the tiller won't dig into the soil - it will just walk on top the soil and push the tractor right along.

Jeff B - Jerry thinks I was pickn' on you and that's not what I meant. Sorry if I kinda overstated the situation. I think I know exactly what you were thinking when you typed K301 and 12hp. It happens to the best of us from time to time. Back in the old days you might have to pay a penance - something like putting a K301 in your 149 and putting a K321 in your 169, and then posting the original engines under the Free To Good Home classified section.
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Steve N - I wouldn't worry about getting the correct air filter box for your 149/M12. Assuming it's the same as the K-series AQS air cleaner I don't think there is any advantage and it just makes access to the throttle and choke linkage more difficult. You might want to consider just cutting an appropriate shaped piece of tin to cover the hole in the shroud. If you want to get real fancy you could even slip the cover thru the hole and mount it from the inside of the shroud but use sheet metal screws from the outside. This would give you a cleaner look. I don't think it would vibrate loose but could - so if you do do this you should consider removing the shroud and using small bolts/screws with nuts as a more permanent fix.
 
What happened here? Did I break this thing? Or is it supper time and everyone stepped away?
 
All the Magnum singles did have cast iron blocks. Many of the improvements were already listed, big a big one not mentioned was the crankshaft. Where the K series used a cast iron crankshaft, The Magnum had a much stronger crank, can't recall if a forged or nodular iron part.
 
Slide the throttle cable back closer to the bracket and go from there?
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Keith - if you want to use the adjusting screw for the throttle stop you loosen the hold down screw and slide the throttle cable back. If the arm doesn't move back when you do this, is the choke cable holding it? You may have to do the same thing with the choke cable.
 
Thanks for the advice Harry. I may start looking for tiller mule drive or making parts to mod mine. I want to make this a dedicated tiller and use my 1000 for mowing.

I just relined the brakes with material I got from McMaster Carr. There was a page that described the repair on another CC web site. They should be all set for another 40 years of service.
 
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